[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: more newbie questions

Hi Sherry,
        Since you ask specific questions here, I'll answer them individually
in brackets individually below.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherry Michael" <_smichael at excite_com>
To: <KillieTalk at aka_org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: more newbie questions


>
> Hi Jay! Thanks for your answer. Just a couple quick questions on your
> response:
>
> >  I just store them in the mops.  I take the mops, wring them out
> >  thoroughly (doesn't crush the eggs) and stick them in ziplock sandwich
> bags.
>
> This sounds like what I will try first. I think my first fry batches will
be
> easier for me to deal with this way.
>
> Do you dip them in an anti-fungal first before you stick them in the bag?
> What temp should they be stored at roughly? (warmer vs. cooler)

[[   I have never thought of such a dip.  I have never seen a fungus attack
a healthy fertile egg.  Any infertile eggs will just turn opaque white
(maybe with a little "star" of tendrils).  They never infect any good eggs,
even if touching in the mop.  As to temp, I think mid 70's is about best.
Low 70's or low 80's can skew your sex ratio according to some of the
experts.  My garage stays around 80.  In winter they'll just have to be room
temp. indoors.  That might add a few days to the gestation.  ]]
>
> >  Then I throw the mops into fresh water, and baby fish all hatch in a
few
> >hours (usually).
>
> How do you know when they look ready? I guess when they "eye-up"?

[[   I think you'll find it pretty obvious.  The embryos will be clearly
visible.  The irises of their little eyes will be clearly observable too.
To tell the truth though, I've found the time to be consistent enough that I
seldom bother to examine them.  If it's Sunday, it's time to hatch babies
here!  I collect the mops that day and just maintain a three shoe-box
rotation of eggs from various Fundulopanchax, Aphyosemion, and
Chromaphiosemion species so every two weeks they are ready to go.  I plan to
stretch it to a three week rotation in the cold season.  An extra week
doesn't seem to hurt either if a vacation or something occurs.  ]]
>
> >The fry of australe are big enough to take baby brine shrimp
>
> How soon do you start the BBS hatching to have them the right size for the
> fry? I've hatched them once before, but never tried to time them with fry.

[[   I don't even bother to try and force the timing.  A couple of days
before I was ready to hatch my first fry, I simply started some brine shrimp
eggs in 1 liter pop bottles.  I keep a two bottle system rotating.  (Though
now I use enough to need 2 liter bottles.)  When the bbs started hatching, I
just fed them to the adults until the fry hatched.  Bbs are smallest (good
for newly hatched little fish mouths), cleanest, and most nutritious when
freshly hatched.  You only need a tiny amount at first, so be free to set up
extra until you have a system down pat.  I take a fresh-hatched partial
harvest in the morning, and at night I harvest the rest from the same bottle
(even though they are somewhat inferior to the freshest ones).  Two feedings
of brine per day.  I use vinegar eels and microworms (when I can keep them
alive) in between for a third feeding. I always feed any surplus to the
adults- they never fail to eat them with gusto.  ]]
>
>
> > The killie people are truly wonderful.
> >
> >  Jay Moylan
>
> I agree! You folks are very supportive! Thank you!
>
> -Sherry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________
> Say Bye to Slow Internet!
> http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html
>
> ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
>

---------------
See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
References: