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Re: Question about Diapterons
This should boost the spirits of those interested in diapterons.
I have tried unsuccesfully to keep both cyanastictum and fulgens. After
failing miserably, I decided to settle on a painting I had as the only
diapterons I would keep. Then a friend and fellow WAKO member traded me
some georgiae for some elassoma okeefenokee. I was leary, but he said not
to worry, these did well for him. I had them a small while, and sure enough
began to get eggs as they matured. Some of these have hatched and turned
into small fish now. My set up is simple. 2.5 gallon tank, inch of dark
brown gravel, a foam filter with a trickle of air, and a smallish mop that
covers half the bottom of the tank no lighting except what comes in the
front of the tank from lit tank rows perpendicular to this row. Temps
flucuate daily from around 69 degrees at the coldest nights, to 74 on
warmest days in that area of the fish room. Water is that from my tap, ph
of 6.6 avg. and hardness of 40ppm avg. I store this in a 55 gallon drum
with an air stone. I then add 4 gallons of water treated with a dozen oak
leaves and a cup of peat per gallon . That is my homemade water conditioner
most my fish love. They are fed grindal worms, bbs, white worms, daphnia
and mosqutio larvae. Days I am short of time they will eat crushed hikari
discus pellets. I pick the eggs and put them in pure oak/peat solution and
wait for hatch. when they hatch they are moved to small plastic shoe boxes
with a snail in it and water treated with 20 teaspoons of instant ocean to
25 gallons of water. They are fed micro worms, bbs euglena and paramecium.
I hope this is of some help, I am by no means an accomplished diapteron
keeper, but have been having luck with these parameters. Many of the things
I have mentioned are supposed no nos to diapterons, prepared foods, salt in
water, transplanting fry from the dark tannin water to the hard water etc.
it has worked for me, but maybe I am just lucky this time.
Ray Wolff
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