Re: [Killietalk] copper leaching from new plumbing

["Mach Fukada" <diapteron at hawaii_rr.com>]

Aloha Wright
        Thanks for the info.  Will give me somthing to think about.  Our 
water was fairly soft and acid.  Right out of the tap as it is surface water 
coming vial the ferns and mosses in the watershed.   All struck me as odd 
when they started adding phosphoric acid then went a 180 degrees to add soda 
ash.  Now somtimes ph was 10 out of the tap.    Would almost give up and 
work on rift lake chiclids.....   Maybe pupfish would be better......

MTF


> Generally it should not be a problem unless your tap water is quite
> acid. Copper is pretty insoluble in alkaline water, as I understand it.
> The metal skins over with an oxide very quickly, so a quick drain of the
> standing pipe water may be needed for a few days. After that, only reef
> systems may see a detectable effect. Copper is an essential trace
> nutrient for most biosystems, so is not toxic at low levels (except to
> some reef critters?).
>> Also working on water filtration system for the room.  Chlorine and
>> cloramines are becoming more of a problem for me and seems the water
>> department "experiments" on us people all the time so it is not 
>> consistant.
> This is normal, everywhere. They add no more than just what is needed to
> handle current bacterial counts. That varies with time of year and rain
> conditions as well as condition of the delivery pipes. Most tests in
> your water report are done only about every three years. The coliform
> bacteria test is a major exception, and it is usually done pretty
> frequently in most water districts.
>>
>> Thinking about getting 2 filters with the activated carbon.  I recall 
>> wont
>> work for chloramines, is there a test for them?
>>
> They do work for chloramines, but you must make the flow through the
> filters rather slow (trickle?), as neither chlorine nor chloramine have
> a very strong affinity for activated carbon. They "punch through" with
> faster flow. The key is to lengthen contact time and then they work
> perfectly on chlorine or chloramine. Test the outlet water to determine
> how fast you can run it without any leakage. Put the flow-restricting
> valve on the outlet, as I think line pressure tends to make them a bit
> more effective.
>
> Put a tap between filters, and test there for saturation. When the first
> one shows some chlorine/chloramine leakage, replace with the second and
> put a new cartridge in the second container.
>
> The test for chloramine is the same as for chlorine. Use a pool/spa
> chlorine test (not the identical one costing 7-10 times as much at the
> LFS). You can tell the difference between chlorine and chloramine by
> aerating strongly for a day. Chlorine is dissipated, so the reduction in
> reading the second day says how much was chlorine, and the remaining
> reading is how much is chloramine. The half-life of most dissolved
> chloramines is of the order of 5 weeks, so aeration does nothing to
> reduce them.
>
> Wright
>
> -- 
> Wright Huntley - Rt. 001 Box K36, Bishop CA 93514 - whuntley at verizon_net 
> 760 937-2276 (cell) 760 872-3995.
>
> http://www.self-gov.org/wspq.html
>
>
>
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> End of Killietalk Digest, Vol 43, Issue 15
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