[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Fw: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1835
----- Original Message -----
From: "KillieTalk Digest" <Owner-KillieTalk at AKA_Org>
To: <Owner-KillieTalk at AKA_Org>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:14 PM
Subject: KillieTalk Digest V3 #1835
>
> KillieTalk Digest Thursday, January 3 2002 Volume 03 : Number
1835
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> RE: Is "Algone" a scam?
> Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
> Jason Owen's Cacutoides
> Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
> RE: A. bivitattum
> Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
> Re: Community Killie Tank
> Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
> Blackworms
> RE: Blackworms
> Re: community killi tank, substrate Q
> Lava Rock
> Flow through System - some additional info & photos
>
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> KillieTalk mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 14:31:29 -0600
> From: "Morris, George" <gmorris at kester_com>
> Subject: RE: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
> I've found that vascular plants will generally out compete algae as long
as
> my florescent tubes are replaced regularly.
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: FishBoy20 at cs_com [mailto:FishBoy20 at cs_com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 2:25 PM
> To: killietalk at aka_org
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
>
> I always prefer to find a natural way of getting rid of algae, be
> it
> a fish that likes to eat it, or algae eating shrimp, or through less
light,
> less food and more water changes. If a product sounds to good to be true
it
> usually is.
> ~Jeremy Basch
>
>
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/alternative
> text/html
> - ---
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 15:32:00 EST
> From: BHWolk at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
> I don't want to be controversial here, but what the hey. I've been
keeping tropical fish for more than 40 years and I have yet to figure out
why algae is perceived as being such a problem. I understand that in SOME
cases relating to egg incubation it may not be desired. However, in most
situations, especially when I raised livebearers, I wanted algae in my tanks
and encouraged its growth. Oh well, I hope this is as controversial as the
world gets this year. Bruce
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 16:41:51 EST
> From: PB1212BBA at aol_com
> Subject: Jason Owen's Cacutoides
>
> I have tried cacutoides twice with the same result ; Male kills all
> other dwarf cockatoos then promptly commits suicide by ramming into the
front
> glass. In the little time it took them to do that I never found them to be
> shy or shy about eating.
> I provided plenty of hiding spots and fed flake, frozen brine and frozen
> bloodworm. The first attempt was in a 70 gallon community, the second in a
20
> high species tank. Hope you have much better luck than I did, bloodworms
> should do the trick.
>
> As far as shyness goes, I have found that spending MORE time around
> your fish will help them overcome it. Cichlids detest being netted and
will
> hold grudges against you for quite some time. Try sitting quietly as close
to
> the tank as you can get for at least 15 minutes when you feed. This has
> helped a lot of my fish become great showoffs.
>
> Richard Arline
>
>
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/alternative
> text/html
> - ---
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 22:34:25 -0000
> From: "Chris Jewell" <chris at jewell68_freeserve.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
> I would rather concentrate on cutting the algeas food source ( nitrates +
> phosphates) and energy source (light!) than use a chemical algea
destroyer.
> It may work, but it will have to be used constantly untill the actual
cause
> is found.
>
> All tanks will have some amount of algea, and I too welcome it to some
> extent ( for certain catfish) but like to keep it in check on my planted
> display tanks.
>
> Adding quick growing floating plants can often help, as they can grow at a
> higher speed than fully submerged plants and outcompete the algea for
food.
>
> Chris
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BHWolk at aol_com>
> To: <killietalk at aka_org>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:32 PM
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
>
> > I don't want to be controversial here, but what the hey. I've been
> keeping tropical fish for more than 40 years and I have yet to figure out
> why algae is perceived as being such a problem. I understand that in SOME
> cases relating to egg incubation it may not be desired. However, in most
> situations, especially when I raised livebearers, I wanted algae in my
tanks
> and encouraged its growth. Oh well, I hope this is as controversial as the
> world gets this year. Bruce
> > ---------------
> > See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> > Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
> >
>
>
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:43:38 -0500
> From: "Tranquility Base" <TranquilityBase at NetZero_Net>
> Subject: RE: A. bivitattum
>
> Hi Shane,
>
> How goes it? You made some good points regarding the BIT. I actually
> checked on my BIT for the first time in several weeks. And yes they are
> still there. I was afraid I had been wasting food on an empty tank.
>
> Have you ever wondered how they get those lovely pictures of these fish?
>
> Also regarding feeding flake, my BIT prefer it with mayo on white toast
I'm
> not sure how they would like it with relish. I'll have to try it.
>
> Peace,
>
> ~RJ~
>
>
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-killietalk at aka_org [mailto:owner-killietalk at aka_org]On
> Behalf Of Shane Essary
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:16 AM
> To: killietalk at aka_org
> Subject: RE: A. bivitattum
>
>
> I'll add the following:
>
> A. volcanum (a BIV type) was one of my first killies (came from Ed
Warner).
> Several valuable things came from keeping this fish:
>
> 1) I agree with the reclusive part. I never saw this fish unless I herded
> them out of the plants. Ever. Occassionally I would spot the male in the
> plants, looking really good, but most of the time they were in "color
down"
> mode.
>
> 2) This was the first killie I ever got fry from. This was after I
learned:
>
> 3) Killies jump. Count on it. I had a 1" strip at the back of the tank
> that was uncovered and within a month, both were found laying under the
> stand on the carpet, dried up.
>
> 4) Killie fry don't need to be fed to survive if in a heavily planted
tank.
> I found fry at 1/4" in that tank a month after the parents jumped. I
never
> fed the tank after I found the bodies. (I've found similar results with
BIT
> fry)
>
> Since then, the only BIV I've kept (currently) is A. loenbergi (I believe
> this is a BIV complex fish?). I never see them. They hide in the mops.
> They're not even breeding at the moment and all eggs I've pulled in the
> past have been fragile, infertile, or fungused. I've tried everything but
> seperating them out and short term breeding them, which is my next
strategy.
> When I catch them in the flashlight, the males are a rather pleasant sky
> blue color. Other than that, they're dull. I think they'd look nice over
a
> dark substrate with blacked-out walls (diapteron tank).
>
> Now, on the other hand, I have a similar fish in BIT. They're also shy
and
> reclusive, but my, what a nice fish. Great finnage, my 10 gallon planted
> grow-out tank has probably 5 pair in it and the males are usually always
out
> and about, showing off in front of each other. I never see the breeders
in
> the 2.5, though.
>
> Other things: BIT will learn to take flake, with relish. At least in my
> experience, they will. BIT Benin City (when I had these) took flake with
> ease and so will these BIT CI00's I have (the F0's would also take flake,
> so...) I'm feeding them Omega? flakes, but I only do that as a stop gap
> measure when I'm short on baby brine. I've heard that BIV are similar in
> their food tastes.
>
> Just my .02. Adjust for inflation accordingly.
>
> - -Shane
>
>
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tranquility Base" <TranquilityBase at NetZero_Net>
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 15:54:34 -0500
> To: <killietalk at aka_org>
> Subject: RE: A. bivitattum
>
>
> > Hi Jacqueline,
> >
> > I do not necessarily agree with Catherine's comments regarding the
> > difficulty involved in caring for BIV's. A 5 gal tank or larger with
lots
> of
> > java moss water sprite and riccia is all you need to get started. You
> will
> > also need live foods to condition the fish. Do your water changes and
fry
> > will appear in a few months.
> >
> > I also tend to believe that if you really like a particular fish you are
> > more likely to care for it properly when you get it. The fish Catherine
> > recommends do have much more outgoing personalities. They also maintain
> > their brilliant colors all of the time. They are good choices to start
> with.
> > But that does not mean that they are right for you. I fell in love with
> > Nothos and started there, despite advise similar to what Catherine is
> giving
> > you. It was not an auspicious start, but as I really wanted the fish so
I
> > learned what I needed to know and kept at it.
> >
> > On the other hand, Catherine makes a good point, that as spectacular as
> > these fish can be in photos, they are often reclusive. Most Chroma's
also
> > have the ability to color up and down. When they are not in happy mode
> they
> > are not nearly as nice as they appear in the photos. I have a tank of
BIT
> > which I rarely see. And when I do see them they are rarely in good
color.
> > When they are in good color and they come out I am reminded that they
are
> > worth the work and aggravation.
> >
> > Peace,
> >
> > ~RJ~
> >
>
> - --
>
> _______________________________________________
> Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com
> http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup
>
>
> 1 cent a minute calls anywhere in the U.S.!
>
>
http://www.getpennytalk.com/cgi-bin/adforward.cgi?p_key=RG9853KJ&url=http://
> www.getpennytalk.com
>
>
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
>
> - ----------------------------------------------------
> Sign Up for NetZero Platinum Today
> Only $9.95 per month!
> http://my.netzero.net/s/signup?r=platinum&refcd=PT97
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:25:44 -0800
> From: gary l meyers <garymeyers at juno_com>
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
> I agree with Joe adding any chemical to a tank of tropical fish -- even
> ones which you believe
> are beneficial -- should be done only after serious consideration. The
> fish live in the water which is somewhat polluted from the get-go.
> Minor dissolved chemicals which we can't even detect can irritate
> sensitive tissues on fish (like gills) causing problems.
> In addition - a chemical additive sufficient in strength to kill algae
> must be pretty caustic.
>
> Also -- Algae though unsightly is beneficial to the aquatic environment
> in many ways.
>
> Gary
>
>
> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002 15:11:11 -0500 "Joe Bulterman"
> <jbulterman at earthlink_net> writes:
> > The more 'stuff' you add to a fish tank the greater the chance that
> > something unintentional will go wrong.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-killietalk at aka_org [mailto:owner-killietalk at aka_org]On
> > Behalf Of Jason Owens
> > Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:00 PM
> > To: killietalk at aka_org
> > Subject: Is "Algone" a scam?
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have experience with a product called Algone? Their
> > website
> > (www.algone.com) purports that it's a 100% safe and natural way to
> > control
> > and eliminate algae in both fresh and marine fish tanks.
> >
> > If you visit the site, you'll see that Algone's site is peppered
> > with
> > testimonials (Chris T. from Texas says it's great, Sally P. from New
> > York
> > says it's a miracle) and "scientific" documentation, yet Internet
> > searches
> > on Google, Yahoo, and Northernlight.com have yielded almost nothing
> > on this
> > product or its effectiveness.
> >
> > Basically...considering the thriving nature of the online
> > fishkeeping
> > community, the widespread problem of algae growth in tanks, and the
> > remarkable claims this company makes...I would think SOMEONE would
> > be
> > talking about this stuff online. But the only place talking about
> > Algone is
> > www.algone.com.
> >
> > Personally, I want to believe...but I don't want to be the sucker
> > buying
> > fool's gold.
> >
> > -- jason
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
> > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
> >
> > ---------------
> > See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> > Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
> >
> >
> > ---------------
> > See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> > Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
> >
> ________________________________________________________________
> GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit:
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:34:05 EST
> From: PB1212BBA at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Community Killie Tank
>
> Jason Owens wrote : ' I've had absolutely no problem keeping my
> gardneri (nsukka), e. chaperi, and lamp eyes together in a community
tank...
> '
>
> I keep a tank of feeder guppies going specifically for testing new
> tanks. When I set up a new tank, I throw a few guppies in and if they live
> for a week, I consider the tank safe for its intended inhabitants.
>
> I just set up a 10 gallon Christmas gift and did the guppy test. I
> then added a pair of Fp. gardneri(PetSmart) and they had no problem with
the
> guppies either. In fact they seemed to rather enjoy them. They have been
> asking for some more, but I'm sticking to feeding them tubifex and frozen
> brine from now on. :^0
>
> Richard Arline
>
>
>
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/alternative
> text/html
> - ---
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:34:06 EST
> From: PB1212BBA at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Is "Algone" a scam?
>
> Jason,
>
> I don't have any experience with a product called Algone. However,
if
> it will kill algae, it will kill higher plants. Speaking from experience,
I
> used a product called green water clarifier in my 135 gallon to get rid of
> green water. This states it is for pond water use only, but that's a big
> tank. I' ve seen smaller ponds. At the recommended dosage, it got rid of
the
> green water. It also got rid of all my other plants and quite a few fish.
A
> week later the greenwater was back.
>
> I finally turned the lights off for a week and stopped using
> pH6.5(contains phosphates) and haven't had a problem since. The best thing
> for algae is to leave it alone. Clean it off the front glass and let it
grow
> where it wants. One of my other tanks became quite overgrown, but I left
it
> alone and eventually it smothered itself out. If it covers your plants and
> starts smothering them out, clean the plants' leaves, add some iron and
then
> turn the lights off for 2 days, then turn them back on. The plants should
> then outcompete the algae. If you just have to have no algae whatsoever in
> your tanks, you're fighting a losing battle.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Richard Arline
>
>
> - --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---
> multipart/alternative
> text/html
> - ---
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:08:05 EST
> From: DoverKillies at aol_com
> Subject: Blackworms
>
> Ran across a website that is new to me. www.aquaticfoods.com . They farm
> blackworms, and for those that can't get blackworms in your area, they
have a
> preety good price on direct shipments to your home. For those that were
> asking what it takes to raise blackworms, look at the pictures on this
site.
>
> Lonny Langione
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 20:13:13 -0500
> From: "Joe Bulterman" <jbulterman at earthlink_net>
> Subject: RE: Blackworms
>
> I have been ordering their worms for over a year now and am very satisfied
> with the quality and quantity of the worms. I usually order a pound a
> month.
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-killietalk at aka_org [mailto:owner-killietalk at aka_org]On
> Behalf Of DoverKillies at aol_com
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:08 PM
> To: killietalk at aka_org
> Subject: Blackworms
>
>
> Ran across a website that is new to me. www.aquaticfoods.com . They farm
> blackworms, and for those that can't get blackworms in your area, they
have
> a
> preety good price on direct shipments to your home. For those that were
> asking what it takes to raise blackworms, look at the pictures on this
site.
>
> Lonny Langione
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
>
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 13:36:06 +1030
> From: "cfghra" <cfghra at picknowl_com.au>
> Subject: Re: community killi tank, substrate Q
>
> Hi Paul,
> I have killie community tank that has been running for 6 months with only
> one
> small hiccup and a bristle nose catfish that knows I want her out of there
> and wont strip the tank down to do it.
>
> The 3 species I am using are 4pairs Fundulopanchax sjoestedi, 1 pair
> Jordenella floridae and Epiplatys bifasciatus started with 5 fish now have
> group of 30. Have one fry each from the other 2 but this is because of the
> bristle nose and pictus catfish and not from the fish failing to spawn.
>
> It is the most entertaining tank I have set up yet, some nights instead of
> doing water changes have sat for hours watching the tank. The SJO are
> always spawning and the smaller males are always trying to get in on the
act
> quiet often the 2 males are so busy doing their thing the female will swim
> off leaving the males in an awkward position( I wonder if fish get
> embarrassed
> they surely look like they are when they work out what they have been
> doing). The bristle nose will be following the spawning fish eating what
> ever
> they leave behind. The SJO males have the odd blue but nothing really
> viscous.
>
> The Jordanella floridae are a cool fish, the male has picked out some java
> moss tied to some drift wood and this is his turf if they have eggs he
> starts to act like a cichlid. This was the cause of my one hiccup he
killed
> one female SJO that was stealing eggs. The female is an eating machine
first
> to any food and always nibbling on algae or plants. Really want to set
these
> up in a species tank soon.(Will I have to remove the female once they
> spawn?)
>
> Epiplatys bifasciatus are a bit smaller and not as colourful as the other
2
> but the bigger the group has got the more entertaining they have become.
> Have about 30 in the tank . They love a floating plant that I have growing
> in the tank, it is an Aussie native I can't remember the name. Very social
> fish for a killie they school sometimes(reminds me of a bunch of school
kids
> trying to cross a road). One of the few killies that it's not easy to pick
> males from females at a glance unless it is the dominant male.
>
> The tank is 6 foot 72x20x20 with creek gravel as a substrate the tank has
a
> single 3foot fluro one end with lots of rocks and drift wood and some java
> moss the other end has 1x 3foot and 2x 2foot fluros with lots of plants
>
> Gary H-H
> Adelaide
> Sth Australia
>
>
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Cezanne" <oblique at alum_mit.edu>
> To: <killietalk at aka_org>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2002 12:58 PM
> Subject: community killi tank, substrate Q
>
>
> > I was at my LFS this weekend and I finally saw several different species
> of killi at once. Most of my exposure has been via photographs on the
> Internet!
> >
> > Ok, so I want to set up a community killi tank. This is particularly
> fortunate since I was planning to setup my office tank this last weekend.
> (The flu prevented that.)
> >
> > Anyway...
> >
> > I keep only one species of killi, Fundulopanchax Scheeli. At the LFS
they
> had australe orange, Rivilus XXXX, Epilatus XXXX, and Lampeye XXXX. Oh,
> there was a single Gardinari that was a mean SOB and supposedly there was
a
> Blue Gularis in the store but I never saw it. (Yeah, it is a pretty good
> store... :-)
> >
> > First, I loved them all, especially the Rivilus. I was next struck by
how
> each of the layer of the tank was occupied, the australe and Rivilus hung
> out on the bottom, the Lampeyes in the middle, the Scheeli go everywhere.
> >
> > Now I have no guarantee that any of these will be in the store when I
> finally get the tank setup. So instead of asking are these a good mix, a
> better question is how can I tell what are good species to mix together?
> >
> > Secondly, how can I tell if the species will interbreed? I have no
desire
> to create hybrids, what is a good rule of thumb for determining if species
> interbreed? At least with all the fish above, the females were
> distinguishable from each other in case I wanted to breed them. (I'm
pretty
> resigned to the fact that no breeding will take place in this tank. I
> assume that any fry would prey for other species (or their parents) and
that
> the snails and/or bottom feeders will most likely prevent any eggs from
> hatching at all, yum, yum)
> >
> > Finally, the most pressing question, what substrate should I use? I'm a
> big fan of Flourite in my planted tanks but I've never used it with
> substrate spawners before. It is a fairly sharp substrate and when I watch
> my Scheeli's spawn, she really gets pressed into the gravel. I have no
> problem layering it, but what should I put on top? I'm currently fond of
> playground sand, is this a good substrate for killies?
> >
> > Oh, the tank is a 29 gallon tank, fairly tall, but it is what I have.
> >
> > Thanks for listening.
> >
> > --
> > pZ -- Paul Cezanne
> > Please visit http://www.customline.com/peace/ and think about what is
> there.
> >
> >
> > ---------------
> > See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> > Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
> >
>
>
>
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 19:22:55 -0800 (PST)
> From: Kean Huat Yeap <keanhuat at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Lava Rock
>
> I just bought a big bag of red volcanic rock from
> Lowes. I just want to make sure this is the same as
> the lava rock people are using. I plan to put some
> into my frys tanks and may be use it to replace the
> floss in the corner filters.
>
> I hope it's inert and won't change the water
> parameters.
>
> Kean Huat
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
> http://greetings.yahoo.com
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2002 23:10:21 -0500
> From: David and Jennifer Snell <dsnell at erols_com>
> Subject: Flow through System - some additional info & photos
>
> I want to thank everyone who have responded with positive comments about
> my flow through system. A number of you have asked some questions and I
> wanted to share that information with you and a few more pictures.
>
> Water line to shoe boxes and 3-cup containers:
> I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the lid of the shoeboxes. Then I ran the
> water line tube to the hole, attached a .18" barb to .18" barb elbow
> (the fitting is also manufactured by Antelco, 50 for $6.00) to the
> water line, put the elbow into the hole and then I added another inch or
> so of water line tube (standard airline tubing) so it's extending into
> the shoe box just above the water line. The water line stays in place
> with no problem.
>
> For the 3-cup containers, I drilled a hole just slightly smaller than
> the elbow fitting and basically snap the elbow fitting in to place.
> Since the hole is smaller than the barb on the fitting, it's locked into
> place. I don't add any additional tubing.
>
> In the shoebox tanks and the three cup containers, I have one or two
> additional 1/4" holes (you can see them in the 3-cup container picture
> link below) that I use for feeding or sometimes airline tubing.
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/3cup_waterline.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/shoebox_wateline.jpg
>
> PVC drain trough
> The 1 1/4" PVC drain system was cut length-wise. I cut about 1/3 off
> the top of the PVC pipe using a Dremel and a fiberglass cutting disk. I
> set the Dremel to high speed for the cutting. To my surprise there was
> no melting of the PVC. If you do the cutting I highly recommend that
> you do the cutting outside since the cutting produces a sand-like
> sawdust that gets over everything. Cutting straight is a challenge, I
> did follow a straight line I drew on the PVC pipe, but it still took a
> slow hand to keep the cut as straight as possible.
>
> The picture below is part of the drain of another system Im putting
> together for a (15) 2.5Gal tank rack. I learned the first time when you
> do the cutting that you should leave a whole section (see in the
> picture) of PVC pipe at the ends of your length of pipe. It makes life
> much easier when you try to cement the pipe to the fittings (PVC end
> cap, tees, etc).
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/pvcdraintrough.jpg
>
> I hope this helps answer a few more questions, if not just let me know.
>
> David Snell
> david at in2fish_com
> AKA#7395
>
>
> Below is just the original posting.
>
> Fry Flow Through System
> I started building this particular system this summer (2001), working on
> it on-and-off as time permitted. It was finished and put into operation
> in late November. This system is part my fishroom, which is a very small
> 10 x 10 room. It's really my wife's laundry room, which I've slowly
> taken over and converted into the Fishroom. This system is above my
> washer and dryer. It's suspended from the ceiling and supported by the
> wall.
>
> This particular system can hold up to (16) 1.5-gal Rubbermaid shoeboxes
> & (12) 3-cup Glad containers. The sump is a 20Gal high tank. The water
> is circulated from the sump using a Rio 2100 pump, through the supply
> line, and back into the sump. My pump pushes a head of about 6ft, which
> gives me a supply line flow-rate of about 100GHP. From the supply line,
> I have individual valves that I use to control the drip rate of the
> water into each tank. The drain system is 1 1/4" PVC pipe for the
> shoeboxes and 1/2" PVC pipe for the 3-cup containers. The drain water
> flows back into the sump. The supply line also has an in-line 25 Watt UV
> sterilizer, which is run about 4 hours per day.
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/frysystem.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/shoeboxes.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/3cuptanks.jpg
>
> Off the main supply line I've inserted 1/2" PVC Tees for each tank. At
> the end of each tee is a 1/2" PVC to Drip valve adapter. An Antelco
> Vari-Flow valve controls water to each tank. Antelco
> (http://www.antelco.com) is the manufacturer of the valves you see for
> sale by Jehmco, Rain Drip, Pets Warehouse, TFP, etc. The valves I have
> used are the Vari-Flow .18" barb x 10/32 thread valves. The barbed end
> works well with standard airline tubing. The valves can plug up, but
> they are easy to clean, usually by opening and closing the valve, or by
> opening the valve and inserting a straightened-out paper clip into the
> valve.
>
> I have not yet measured the flow rates, but for the 3-cup containers, I
> use a slow to very-slow drip rate. For the 1.5-gal tanks, I use a
> moderate to fast drip rate.
>
> I contacted Antelco this summer and found a local wholesaler in the
> Washington DC area. Through a friend, we were able to setup a
> commercial/wholesale account and purchase the valves for $0.60 each in
> packages of 50. The adapters cost about $0.35 each in packages of 25.
> To save money, you could tap the PVC pipe directly with a 10/32 tap, but
> I didn't want to chance any leaking.
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/supplyline.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/dripvalve-and-adapter.jpg
>
> Bulkhead Fittings
> Each tank has a bulkhead fitting, which is actually an agricultural
> spray fitting. These particular fittings are 1/2" barb to 11/16 UN
> thread fittings. The 1.5-gal tanks use an elbow fitting, and the 3-cup
> containers use a straight fitting. The threaded portion of the fittings
> fits easily through a 3/4" hole. The 1.5-gal tanks are drilled on the
> side, about 2.5" above the bottom on the containers. The 3-cup tanks
> are drilled on the bottom. The barbed end of the fitting fits into 1/2
> inch PVC pipe or drips into the 1 1/4" PVC trough.
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/fittings.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/114drain.jpg
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/halfinchdrain-inlineuv.jpg
>
> The fittings are manufactured by Olsen Tools and Plastic
> (http://www.olsentool.com/olsen.htm). Through a friend, I was able to
> coordinate a wholesale order for the Chesapeake Area Killifish Club.
> All totaled, we ordered 2600 fittings, nuts, caps, and various
> adapters. The elbow bulkhead I'm using is their part number NTL12 and
> the straight bulkhead is their part number 3812D. The cost was about 30
> cents for the bulkhead fitting and nut.
>
> I used the swivel nut (Olsen part 8027) and inserted a piece of
> embroidery mesh to create an overflow screen. I have also attached some
> foam to some of the nuts to create small foam filters for the 3-cup
> containers and for some of the 1.5-gal tanks. I also use washers on
> both sides of the bulkhead fitting. The washers are basic garden hose
> washer found at Sears/Home Depot, I paid $1 for 10 or 12 washers.
>
> Water volume
> In the 1.5-gal tanks with the bulkhead hole 2.5" above the bottom, the
> water level is constant at about 1 gallon. The 3-cup containers are
> drilled on the bottom, so the water volume varies from approx 1.5 cups
> to 2 cups depending on the foam filter I use. I can adjust the water
> volume one of two ways. Since the bulkhead is threaded and the foam
> filter has a threaded nut, I can simple turn the filter until it reaches
> the desired height. On some foam filters in place of the swivel nut I
> have used a different threaded adapter that is about 2-3 times as tall
> as the swivel nut, which allows me to raise the filter and the water
> level more.
>
> The overflow screens and foam filters can plug up. So for each tank, I
> marked on the outside of the container to note the water line. If I see
> the water line above the marked line, then I know I need to clean the
> sponge filter or the overflow screen.
>
> http://users.erols.com/dsnell/in2fish/waterlinemark.jpg
>
> Water Changes
> Water charges are very easy. I simply turn two ball valves and I pump
> out the water. Then I refill with freshwater.
>
> Sump Filtration
> I'm still working on this area. The 20 Gal tank has several large
> sponge filters. At some point in the future, I plan to setup some type
> of small trickle filter with bio-balls or lava rock.
>
> David
> - ---------------
> See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
> Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of KillieTalk Digest V3 #1835
> *********************************
>
> To unsubscribe from killietalk, send the command:
> unsubscribe killietalk-digest
> in the body of a message to "Majordomo at AKA_ORG". Archives are
> available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/killietalk
> or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/killietalk.
>
---------------
See http://www.aka.org/AKA/subkillietalk.html to unsubscribe
Join the AKA at http://www.aka.org/AKA/Applic.htm