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[APD] re: glosso at low light
Tom, I know you are a guru here on apd, so i'm not even going to question what you said about glosso. Instead, I would like to know what factors i should look at in order to grow glosso successfully at, say, 2 WPG, because I have grown it successfully in high lighting situations (4wpg) and have had it completely stop growing in lower light with no other factors changed except light...
Any advice is much appreciated.
Regards,
Joe
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:57:04 -0500
From: "Thomas Barr" <tcbiii at earthlink_net>Subject: [APD] RE: Gloss must have high light? Or: Are you nuts?To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Someone squawked about Gloss being a plant that needs high light.
Some of the best gloss I've ever seen was with 2.1w/gal of NO FL's
lighting
__at 24" depth__, the other tank was 18" and 1.5 w/gal lighting in
other
folk's tanks.
I like less lighting for Gloss, it looks better.
I tried this with Quartz lighting, MH's and with FL's/CP's.
I think it looks better over the long term and is certainly easier to
maintain.
I like enough to make one thick layer without piling up.
Anyone that wants to claim that Gloss is a high light plant should take
a
look at SFBAAPS and see Jeff's and Steve's old tanks.
I grew it fine at 2w/gal NO FL's.
I've even had it grow pretty good in a NON CO2 tank. Hairgrass too.
Regards,
Tom Barr
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Today's Topics:
1. RE: House Lit with LED's. (Gomer Gomer)
2. Re: cabomba (Scott R.H.)
3. RE: tank at work (Thomas Barr)
4. RE: Gloss must have high light? Or: Are you nuts? (Thomas Barr)
5. Re: re: etching (Philippe Lemaire)
6. RE: Fish Stocking Level (Rachel Sandage)
7. Re: Excessive Humidity (Eng Family)
8. RE: algae indicators (Andrew McLeod)
9. Re: Fish Stocking Level (Andrew McLeod)
10. Re: RE: tank at work (Rob Fowler)
11. Re: Etching (David Grim)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:34:02 -0800
From: "Gomer Gomer"
Subject: RE: [APD] House Lit with LED's.
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Very interesting! Thanks! I would like to point out that I have seen many
high intensity LEDs taht aren't very pink and purple :) There are many that
are white like 5000 and 6700k bulbs.
>From: "Scott R.H."
>Reply-To: aquatic plants digest
>To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
>Subject: [APD] House Lit with LED's.
>Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 10:30:05 -0800 (PST)
>
>In case any missed the post on SlashDot, here's the
>link.
>
>Thought it might be semi-releavant to the previous
>topic on intensity and color.
>
>http://www.thevospad.com/gallery.html
>
>
>Scott R.H.
>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 11:42:46 -0800 (PST)
From: "Scott R.H."
Subject: Re: [APD] cabomba
To: aquatic plants digest
Without getting into anything that might be going on,
which I'm sure will talk about. Here are my
experinces with cabomba.
It likes cooler waters. It likes good lighting and
absolutly LOVES lots of co2. After "speaking" with
Mr. Barr, I upped my co2 production. That helped for
better color and denser growth. Keeping the
neutrients up help keep that growth green. I'm still
having trouble keeping it nice, but I'm not worrying
about it until I move. I'll change my dosing methods
to include more NO3. I'm also going to bottled CO2 in
the next 2 months I think.
Scott R.H.
--- BRIAN NADOLNY wrote:
> I recently got back into the aquarium hobby after
> being absent from it for a long time. I set up a 50
> gallon tank that I want to use mainly as a planted
> tank with a few fish (Angles,neons,etc.).The tank is
> up and running, recently establish after 4 weeks
> from startup. I have a undergravel filter that is
> ran with 2 powerheads. I have 2 40w G.E. full
> spectrum florescent tubes, that I keep on around
> 12-14 hrs a day. A run a co2 system using the
> fermentation method. My ph is 7.4 which is the
> lowest it has been since startup. I haven't been
> able to get it any lower, I think that it is due to
> the fact that my tap water is in the high 7's to low
> 8's. Everything that I have in the tank is growing.
> I have 5 dwarf sag's, 3 cyrpts, 1 melon sword,
> moneywort, lugiwia rep., cabomba, 1 banana, & what
> the store called mondo grass, and I think a purple
> wenge(I think that what it is called it is big
> leaved green on top bright purple on the bottom. My
> problem that I am having is that my plants aren't as
> green as I would like. Especially my cabomba the new
> growth on the plants is a yellowish green color. Its
> growing good but it just isn't as green as the old
> growth at the bottom . the bottom is a very deep
> green and that what I want. some of my other plants
> could be greener as well. But mostly it's just the
> cabomba that I don't like the color of. Everything
> is growing the cabomba has sent out some roots off
> of the cuttings.
> the banana has sprouted a new leaf and sent out
> roots. and the mondo grass as well. any thought and
> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> thank you
> brian
> _______________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:51:53 -0500
From: "Thomas Barr"
Subject: [APD] RE: tank at work
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Tom
>
> You asked me how I could work on this tank at work and still do my job.
> Answer: In a way, it is my job. How you ask? The ladies in the office
gave
> my boss a ten gallon setup for Christmas. My boss is part owner of the
> company. He kindly told me he was expecting me to help him with the tank.
Aha ha! The boss's stooge:) Well every place has one, some places have
several and they all compete, it's a sad site ineed.
> (Read that as set it up for him in his office.) A friend of mine decided
to
> get out of the Reef hobby and wanted to get rid of his equipment. I saw
the
> potential for a great tank at work and told my boss about it. He bought
the
> equipment, I returned the ten gallon setup, I was given almost free reign
to
> set up the tank as I saw fit at his expense. He originally wanted "Nemo"
in
> his tank. I told him that was too expensive and convinced him that
Africans
> were the second best choice.
I think for folks that like fish and a nice over tank look, AF rift fish
are really tough to beat and they live a long time, hard to kill very
active, colorful etc.
I have never kept Rift Lake Africans and saw
> this as a learning opportunity. I now have to contend with office
politics.
Surrrrre ya do, "_stooge_":)
> The ladies are happy with plastic plants, orange dyed coral, sunken
ships,
> etc.
Designer plants that match eh?
> this explanation. I wasn't intentionally trying to mislead anyone.
Justifying the the lie, you really are the boss's stooge:)
Well if you are good at it, do it.
That's what I need, more stooges:)
> Back to plants: I originally asked about algae. You listed Pithophora,
> Cladophora, Coleochaete, Dicotomosiphon, and Vaucheria as good candidates
> for establishment in an African Cichlid tank. I checked the 1999 Carolina
> Biological Supply Company catalog (www.carolina.com) I have at work and
> found a large list of algae offered for sale. They offered Coleochaete
and
> Vaucheria in 1999. I cross checked with my copy of Standard Methods for
the
> Examination of Water and Wastewater, 19th ed. and found a match in the
area
> of "algae growing on reservoir walls". The genera listed and available
from
> Carolina are: Draparnaldia, Microspora, Oedogonium, Stigeoclonium,
Ulothrix,
> and Vaucheria. Other algae available eliminating those that are Diatoms,
> Taste and Odor Algae, Filter Clogging Algae, Polluted Water Algae and
> Plankton are: Ankistrodesmus, Characiosiphon, Coleochaete, Cosmarium,
> Mesotaenium, Platydorina, Selenastrum capricornutam, Botrydiopsis,
> Botrydium, Ophiocytium, and Tribonema. Could you comment on these algae
as
> to their suitability for growth in an aquarium and their ability to
provide
> nutrients to the fish.? Will there be any competition between the genera?
> Are there any to avoid? Cultures cost $5.10 plus postage in 1999. Enough
for
> 30 students they say.
I think you need to go outside and grab something local, or at least from a
friend's tank etc.
> Concerning transfer of BBA spores between home and work a few questions.
1.
> How would they get transfered if I didn't bring anything from home except
> myself? Are they in the air?
Yep, but it's not likely for BBA.
> I will bleach(19:1) any plants purchased first.
I'd just not worry about it.
I've never been able to grow BBA in a harder AF cichlid tank.
> 2. To be sure I understand you correctly concerning my bringing BBA mulm
to
> work, it sounds like you are saying it is possible to bring the mulm to
the
> work tank and then treat the work tank with CuSO4. I know the archives
speak
> to this treatment. Is this correct?
I'd just not worry about it. I do not think you'll get it.
If you do, CuSO4 and it's done with.Or turn out the lights for awhile etc.
> Concerning the filter: You mentioned the Peace lilies in the filter. Is
that
> the plant that is sold in Betta bowls nowadays in the USA?
Yes.
Would
> Cryptcorynes substitute? I imagine I would need to build a means to keep
the
> humidity up while the plant is growing.
Yes ansd yes. Depends on the RH in your area.
> You also mentioned using a RFUG. Did you mean in the filter?
Yes, reverse flow UG filter, see archives on the CPVC/PVC design I talked
about that is cheap and easy to make.
Cost about 8-10$.
I still haven't
> settled on a filter design. Any ideas are welcome. The filter is 29 1/2 x
11
> 1/2 by 11 1/2.
Sump?
Add a surge 6000 pump, about 45$,
Regards,
Tom Barr
> Thanks, Jerry
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 15:57:04 -0500
From: "Thomas Barr"
Subject: [APD] RE: Gloss must have high light? Or: Are you nuts?
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Someone squawked about Gloss being a plant that needs high light.
Some of the best gloss I've ever seen was with 2.1w/gal of NO FL's lighting
__at 24" depth__, the other tank was 18" and 1.5 w/gal lighting in other
folk's tanks.
I like less lighting for Gloss, it looks better.
I tried this with Quartz lighting, MH's and with FL's/CP's.
I think it looks better over the long term and is certainly easier to
maintain.
I like enough to make one thick layer without piling up.
Anyone that wants to claim that Gloss is a high light plant should take a
look at SFBAAPS and see Jeff's and Steve's old tanks.
I grew it fine at 2w/gal NO FL's.
I've even had it grow pretty good in a NON CO2 tank. Hairgrass too.
Regards,
Tom Barr
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 22:37:07 +0100
From: "Philippe Lemaire"
Subject: Re: [APD] re: etching
To: "aquatic plants digest"
What about "Liquid Silicon" ?
Is there a bad effect when dropping in the tank?
Cannot change glass for it is glued to the side of the tank...
Philippe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Candy M."
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2004 2:52 AM
Subject: [APD] re: etching
> Glass is actually porous. You can buy a product (rain dance i think makes
> it) designed to "seal" the pores of glass so that water "sheets" off of it.
> Perhaps someone can find out if this product is toxic to fish/plants. If it
> is not it may be the perfect answer.
>
> Candy
>
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>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:49:06 -0800
From: "Rachel Sandage"
Subject: [APD] RE: Fish Stocking Level
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Andrew,
until the angels are fully grown, or even mostly grown, I'd call that medium
stocking. The kind of otos generally in the trade do not get large, although
they can get very fat - they'll max out about 2-3". Cardinal tetras are a
natural food source for angels in the wild, but until your angels get big,
it's not a problem, and may not be even then.
At our LFS, however, they did have an angelfish try to eat an oto, and the
oto's barbs got stuck in the angel's throats, and it swam around with this
oto hanging out of its mouth. I don't know the end of the story, I keep
forgetting to ask.
-Rachel
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:48:23 -0800
From: "Eng Family"
Subject: [APD] Re: Excessive Humidity
To:
Try this device:
http://www.humidexatlantic.com/
Low power consumption, easy to install and quiet operation.
Cheers,
Victor Eng
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:03:11 -0000
From: Andrew McLeod
Subject: [APD] RE: algae indicators
To: tcbiii at earthlink_net, aquatic plants digest
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 12:22:09 -0500, Thomas Barr
wrote:
> The two biggest players: CO2 and NO3. Less light helps is most cases
> also.
> Much easier to deal with algae, plant health is easier to maintain etc.
>
> Like driving a car, the faster you go, the more risk you take and the
> more
> gas(nutrients/CO2) you need.
> Any bumps in the road you'll feel them more.
I think I'll stick to the speed limit (nice and slow).
--
Andrew McLeod
thefish at theabyssalplain_freeserve.co.uk
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content, information or relevance.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:06:46 -0000
From: Andrew McLeod
Subject: [APD] Re: Fish Stocking Level
To: aquatic plants digest
On Tue, 13 Jan 2004 13:44:37 -0500, wrote:
>> PS what sort of a stocking level (light, medium, heavy or overstocked)
>> would people say 15 cardinal tetras, 6 otocinclus and 2 angelfish in a
>> > 30"x15"x18" about 30 gallon tank is? <
>
> Andrew,
>
> It would depend very much on the size of the fish. Angels and otos can
> get quite large and at that point the aquarium would be seriously
> overstocked. Some say that even two fully grown angels would be enough.
>
> I think the angels would eat the cardinals, unless they had been raised
> together, and even then it would be risky. They seem to look as good to
> the angels as they do to us, although in a different context.
>
> Bill
>
What happened to nice happy friendly community angelfish? The Internet
lies...
Also I thought Oto's only got 2 inches long.
--
Andrew McLeod
thefish at theabyssalplain_freeserve.co.uk
This email was scanned carefully before transmission to remove any
content, information or relevance.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:19:02 +1100
From: "Rob Fowler"
Subject: Re: [APD] RE: tank at work
To: , "aquatic plants digest"
> Justifying the the lie, you really are the boss's stooge:)
> Well if you are good at it, do it.
> That's what I need, more stooges:)
>
Damnit, I wish I was a stooge too :-) Setting up a tank properly at work
sounds great.
It sounds easier than dealing with my highly paid, way over intelligent
staff.
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 18:48:25 -0600
From: "David Grim"
Subject: [APD] Re: Etching
To: "Aquatic Plants Mailing List"
(snipe)
One might be amazed at how cheap plain plate glass is and
how little work is involved in replacing it compared to
scrubbing and polishing, etc.
Scott H.
--- Wright Huntley wrote:
> . . . [I suspect it would be cheaper to replace the
> glass
> every few years.]
=====
S. Hieber
(snip)
It is not really the act of replacing it, but the act of making the trip to
the glass shop, having it cut, driving, etc. Like it is no big deal to
change out a CO2 tank, it is getting to the supplier to buy it, etc, that is
the pain.
I polished the etchings off the tank top lid (24" x 6" both sides) in about
5 minutes. There was a final spray down with Windex, but all in all not a
lot of time involved.
Now that I know the Janvil works, I am going to sometime polish the
undersides of the big glass support braces of my Oceanic 240. Maybe drain
the tank down part way, tape a piece of plastic under the supports to catch
any polish droppings, and polish away.
Currently I just use a scrub pab which helps but doesn't eliminate them.
Dave
------------------------------
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