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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #1322

>Tom Barr wrote:
>Adding stuff to the substrate isn't necessary in established tanks and
>"needing" a rich substrate is not a requirement by any means, for such a
>tank. I have sand only in my 90 gallon but it's rich in snail poop and mulm.
>My plants get their nutrients from liquid fertilizer(which you'll have much
>more control over BTW) and fish population. You can do it both ways is my
>point here. It is not a needed thing to do nor one I would wish to do
>myself. A rich substrate can be with nothing else but good old mature sand.
>Why do you wish to add laterite to the bottom anymway? If things are going
>well, don't change things simply because someone wrote or someone's site
>No need to do a bunch of work if you don't have to. Laterite works well to
>help a tank "get going" but it is not needed later on. I haven't used it in
>Tom is right.  My first tank was setup for just fish with only sand, then a
>month later I got the bug to plant it.  It was a disaster for the next
>couple months until I started adding Jobes sticks.  But then, after month 8
>or 9, I found I didn't need anymore substrate fertilizer, the substrate
>seemed to mature and become self supportive.  
>My current tank, which has a Profile substrate, also seemed to hit this
>magical maturity level at about month 9.  The tank is about to become 1 year
>old, and I haven't added anything to the substrate for at least 3 months.
>Bob Ashcraft
>Pittsburgh, PA

This was the way we did it in the "old days" before laterite and clay iron
balls. Folks today don't want to wait or get old dirty water and mulm from a
fellow hobbyist/or another established tank. The more I learn about planted
tanks the less importance I place on the substrate and type of lighting.
I've done it both ways. If it's the right size and age it's not hard to grow
the difficult plants. If the light is generally enough wattage then the type
isn't an issue either nor is the spectrum as much as once
thought.............cool whites will do, quartz will do, MV will do, PC's
will do, FL's will do, etc just don't try 20000K salt water reef bulbs or UV
bulbs but stay within the normal range of 3500-6700k range and all should be
well. A mix of temps works the best often.
    Each method or type has its own "little" advantages. What advantage do
you like? It's up to you to decide. There are many ways to the Garden Of
Tom Barr