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RO vs. DI
>First of all, you did not say WHY you want to treat your water.
My tap water is loaded with phosphates, and that's all I really want to
remove. Here's a quick list of my tap water analytes:
NO3 = .7 mg/l
PO4 = 4 mg/l
GH = 2.5 - 3 dGH
KH = 1.5 - 2 dKH
>There have been reports in the German aquarium literature that water
>that stands in a column overnight leaches something deleterious from the
>column and has to be discarded. Its not so much the volume of water
>lost, as the bother.
Now THIS worries me. I'm beginning to think that the RO/DI route would
safest choice. Does anyone know if Kent Marine DI resins can be recharged?
I have info on recharging AP's "Tap Water Purifier" so I'm guessing Kent
can be recharged also.
>I am not certain whether ANI removes all phosphates effectively.
Perhaps someone on the list has used or knows someone who uses the
Kati/Ani columns? I wanted to speak with the Kati/Ani manufacturer, but Pet
Warehouse was unable to supply me with the company's (Aqua Technik) email
address or phone number. They did offer an address, but who wants to dig up
an envelope and stamp? : )
>Phosphate comes in many forms and I would guess that many of them are
>not removed by an ion exchange column. Be specific in your questions and
>insist on something in writing.
A tech rep at Kent Marine told me that their RO/DI units were capable of
removing over 90% of the PO4. He was speaking of the Maxxima and Hi - S
>Second, you will never get a total removal of any ion. But would, say,
>90% removal of phosphate be good enough? Sure. 50% might even be good
>If you estimate, that 2000 gal will last you two years (i.e. about 3
>gal/day) -- why are you concerned about RO's 50 gal/day flow capacity? A
>10-gal/day unit would serve you just fine!
I was thinking that a 50 gpd unit would last longer than a 10 gpd. Is