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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #873
On the subject of the tiger lotus bulbs, i have some that have been
dormant for about two years now? i dont think there dead? what do i do
---Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com> wrote:
> Aquatic Plants Digest Friday, February 26 1999 Volume 03 :
> In this issue:
> Re: Plant weights - Fe or Sn/Sb?
> Re: Steel wire weights
> Ottelia alismoides
> baking clay
> Re: bristle nose plecos
> Re: Plant weights - RE: Dave Gomberg's search
> Red Tiger Lotus Bulbs
> snails dying... calcium?
> Re: Clay (was Laterite)
> More on Filter less Plant Tanks
> Re: Plant weights
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 11:23:41 GMT+2
> From: "Jacques" <jgerber at Rhobot_ru.ac.za>
> Subject: Re: Plant weights - Fe or Sn/Sb?
> Hello All:
> > > ... solder for drinking water plumbing is no longer > allowed to
contain lead (I have no idea what they have > used instead - silver
and some other metal?).
> > I think it's 95% Tin and 5% Antimony. I suppose that since this
> > the formulation chosen for household plumbing, it must not to be too
> > toxic. Still, Antimony is in the same periodic table column as
> > which gives me pause.
> > What about using thin soft steel wire? The local hardware sells
> > #19 (that's skinny -- 1mm) annealed steel wire for $1.50. It's
> > pliable as lead, but being thin, is very easy to work with, and it's
> > oxidation products are unmysterious and beneficial.
> > Just a thought... personally, I just jab everything into the
> > and hope for the best (which is why there's a long strand of
> > floating around the tank tonight :)
> > Sherman
> Just a thought here. One of our researchers asked me to obtain some
> Egeria for a prac he had to give. I duly obtained this, and he tested
> a sample to see if the experiment would work. He used some steel wire
> (ungalvanised) to hold it down. Within a day the wire was rusty and
> the plant looked very sick indeed.
> Moral of the story: Check on some cheap plants before using anything.
> For the record BTW antimony is non-toxic
> Jacques Gerber
> Botany Department
> Rhodes University
> South Africa
> Dept Tel#: 046 6038596
> Dept Fax#: 046 6225524
> Home Tel#: 046 6225000
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 06:44:00 EST
> From: AquaServe at aol_com
> Subject: Re: Steel wire weights
> I don't see why the steel wire would not work but it seems to me
> would be a greater chance of the wire cutting into the plant and
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 07:44:31 -0500
> From: krandall at world_std.com
> Subject: Filtration
> Dave Gomberg wrote:
> >Since there seem to be so many filtration advocates on this list I
> >some questions:
> >In a tank with lots of plants and
> >1. no animals, is filtration useful?
> >2. very few animals, is filtration useful?
> >3. moderate animals, is filtration useful?
> >4. In case 3, what role does filtration play? What objectives
> >accomplish? What bad would happen if you omitted it?
> I can give you some anecdotal information. I have twice in the
> years turned off a filter for cleaning, on heavily planted, moderately
> stocked tanks and forgotten to turn them back on after they werte
> I haven't noticed my error for as long as 8 weeks after the filter
> turned off. (What can I say, I'm lazy about cleaning filters<g>)
> Absolutely _NOTHING_ positive or negative has happened to the tanks
> these periods. The plants have continued growing, the fish have
> swimming, and yes, even spawning.<g> The water has remained clear,
> there was more mulm on the bottom than usual, it wasn't enough more
> I still use some form of filtration on my tanks because I think that
> circulation _is_ important, and if you don't use a filter, you have to
> devise a method of keeping powerheads from becoming clogged (i.e.
> filtration) But I don't worry much about what type of filtration.
> that if you have little enough nitrate that you need to supplement,
> filtration is probably if little concern. If you have to change
> keep nitrate levels down, you are probably relying pretty heavily on
> bacterial filtration, and removing it could cause problems.
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 09:27:10 -0600
> From: Thomas Fischer <TFischer at primediasi_com>
> Subject: Ottelia alismoides
> Has anyone on the list had experience growing Ottelia alismoides? Is
> fiendishly difficult as the Baensch Aquarium Atlas implies? Is it even
> available in the U.S.?
> Tom Fischer
> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 06:50:39 -0800 (PST)
> From: pete rose <bfordyce at yahoo_com>
> Subject: baking clay
> how long did you bake the clay for (approximately)?
> >Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 14:14:40 -0800From: Wright >Huntley
> <huntley1 at home_com>
> >I have had excellent results using red potter's clay, >baked at a way
> >temp. compared to normal firing.
> >By rolling long cylinders and cutting them into 1/2" >long x 1/2"
> >diameter plugs, I could bake them to a semi-insoluble >state in the
> >at about 350F. I imagined a 2" square grid on the >floor of a 55G
> >Placing one plug at each intersection, I covered the >bottom.
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> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:52:08 +0200 (EET)
> From: Liisa Sarakontu <lsarakon at cc_hut.fi>
> Subject: Re: bristle nose plecos
> Jason Miller wrote:
> > I have a bunch of bristle nose plecos and am wondering how to sex
> > them. I notice that some have white tips at the corners of their
> > caudal fins, is this some sort of sexual dimorphism?
> No, it isn't. Many bristlenose species have these white or cream
> the corners of their dorsal and caudal fins when young, and some
> have them even when full grown up. I have never noticed any sexual
> dimorphism in these spots.
> > By the way, the males (assuming I have any out of ten fish) haven't
> > got their bristles yet. Most have tiny beginnings of bristles,
> > have the elaborate bristles I have seen in older specimens.
> The fisrt tiny spikes start to grow when the fish are about 5 cm - 2"
> long. Only males have any kind of beard on some species, and
> some small stubs on other species. And it depends on the species and
> specimen how full beard there will be. Sometimes just very short,
> non-forked spikes, sometimes lots of branch-like bristles. And it is
> normal that only the strongest male grows a full beard, the rest
> shorted bristles or no beard at all.
> There are other ways to sex young bristlenoses too: wait until they
> sucking the front glass: Males have wider heads and wider mouths.
> Females have bigger bellies, less blunt noses and narrower mouths.
> have sturdier and more spiky first rays of pectoral fins. That mouth
> width is often easy to see even when the fish is just 3 cm long.
> Nidecki taught this to me when he visited me few years ago, thanks
> > but since they eat algae,
> The "common bristlenose" (temminckii- or dolichopterus-looking
> the best algae eater I have yet met! They don't eat red algae, but
> types of green is eaten. And they don't normally damage plants,
> tasty swords, if vegetables and other food is given. It is also one
=== message truncated ===
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