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Re: Seachem questions

> Pat Bowerman wrote:
> > My questions are:
> >
> >  1. Does Seachem believe that ideal N levels in a planted aquarium should be
> > zero?
> >
> >  2. If not, where does Seachem expect N-P-K to be supplied from
> > since there is
> > very little contained in either
> >      Flourish or Flourish Tabs?

> Greg Morin wrote:
> .
> While I can't comment on unannounced products, I can say that you can
> expect to see some products in the near future that will complement
> the current products and give the hobbyist more control over specific
> water parameters.

  Pat: Go ahead and comment. C'mon stop teasing us.

> Greg: Now to directly answer your questions ;-)
> <snip>
> 2) Seachem supplies an NPK source in its Flourish, however the levels
> we set in the product are meant to complement the other natural
> sources (here I'm referring to P & N) of these elements. If you have
> even a few fish in your planted tank they should provide sufficient
> levels of nitrogen and phosphorous.

I'm surprised that no one took exception to this. A few fish will provide all the N and P that I need? And in
the proper ratios too? Does it matter if my tank is heavily planted, well lighted, and co2 injected? That
statement hasn't been my experience at all. In my co2 injected, 2w per gallon, planted aquarium, I add nitrates
daily and they still measure less than 4 ppm. I have more than a few fish in there. Allow me to quote from the
Sears-Conlin paper found on The Krib.

<There is a tradition in the hobby of using fish food (usually processed by the fish first) as the source of
<macronutrients for the plants in an aquarium. When this is done, it appears that first K and then N become the
<limiting plant growth (i.e. there is insufficient K and N in the food relative to the amount of P, at least
for the fish
<foods the authors use). Thus, supplementary K and N must be added or free phosphate will be available to fuel
<growth (this contradicts the prevailing wisdom in the aquarium hobby that one of the ways to reduce algae
growth is <by
<reducing fertilization; in fact, additional nutrients are required).

> Greg wrote:
> I had a question for you as well: Why did you think that the cyano
> problem might be attributable to low nitrate levels? By cyano I
> assume you mean the blue-green "algae"? According to Baensch Atlas
> volume 2 pg 162, the blue-green algae aka cyanobacteria can flourish
> in the following conditions:  strong sunlight, rotting substrate,
> excess feed, too few water changes, overfertilization or _high
> nitrate levels_. If you are having a cyanobacteria problem I suspect
> one of the other conditions to be the cause since you report that the
> nitrate levels are low.
> - -Greg Morin

Greg, check this link out.
also try the article at this link, written by our own George Booth

I'll quote from it.
<Blue-green, slime or smear algae

<Grows rapidly in blue-green, slimy sheets. Spreads rapidly over almost everything and usually indicates poor
<quality. However, blue-green algae can fix nitrogen and may be seen in aquariums with extremely low nitrates.
<Sometimes seen in small quantities between the substrate and aquarium sides.

Also, did you read the excellent piece that Mark Fisher posted?

Thanks for your reply, and a special thanks to all of the folks on this list.
Merry Christmas, Pat Bowerman