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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #518
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>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 15:48:01 -0400 (EDT)
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>From: Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com (Aquatic Plants Digest)
>To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
>Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #518
>Reply-To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
>Sender: Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com
>
>
>Aquatic Plants Digest Wednesday, September 16 1998 Volume 03 : Number
518
>
>
>
>In this issue:
>
> pump cavitation
> causes of algae growth
> Re: pH and the uptake of CO2
> CO2, pH, KH and alkalinity - limitations
> e-mail
> Re: Graingers?
> Re: MERCURY VAPOUR
> red-rust color algae
> Re: Glass
> Re: Pump cavitation
> Re: DIy glass aquariums
> RO water/Tap water
>
>See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
>Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:18:53 -0700
>From: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
>Subject: pump cavitation
>
>Cavitation never occurs on the outlet of a pump. The symptom of
>cavitation is noise, not bubbles. Still, leaks in the pump housing
might
>allow air to leak in. Checking for plugged input is a good maintenance
>habit to get into.
>
>Steve
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 02:40:24 -0700
>From: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
>Subject: causes of algae growth
>
>> Black hair like algae this is black/bluish belongs to the hair algae
>> family. This is usually caused by a compacted bottom,
>
>I don't see how a compacted substrate could have anything at all to do
>with algae growth. This sounds like pure fancy. The primary CAUSE of
>hair algae growth, is introducing it into your aquarium. It will grow
>whenever conditions are favourable to it which is often a surplus of
>dissolved nutrients, in particular chelated iron and soluble
phosphates.
>
>If you have been unfortunate enough to get "black brush" algae, (furry
>short tufts) you can discourage the growth by keeping pH below 7. Its a
>marine algae and flourishes at high pH. Also, SAEs are effective at
>eating it. Removing affected plant leaves will help as will regular
>water changes and maintaining sufficient and proper fertilization for
>vigorous plant growth. See the Sears and Conlin paper on the Krib under
>fertilizers.
>
>> to much fish
>> food, over fertilization, dead and decaying matter on the bottom.
All
>> in all it's an excessive nitrate and/or low o2 levels in the tank
>> flourishes it's growth. As for suggestions, do a partial water
change,
>> change the filter, increase o2 in the tank (a small bubble bar works
>> wonders), introduce red ramshorn snails, japanese algae blittering
>> (phodeus sericeus) or sagittaria in the tank, and clean the algae off
of
>> the plants as it will eventually kill the plant, lower temp to idealy
>> about 77°F is also effective
>
>I doubt that increasing oxygen levels or lowering temperature will have
>very much effect on "black brush". The former is an indication that
your
>plants are photosynthesising and growing well and is important for
>certain types of cold water fish which need more oxygen. I don't think
I
>have ever heard of temperature as being useful for controlling algae
>growth in planted aquariums.
>
>Steve Pushak Vancouver, BC, CANADA
>
>Visit "Steve's Aquatic Page" http://home.infinet.net/teban/
> for LOTS of pics, tips and links for aquatic gardening!!!
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 19:49:23 +1100
>From: Steve_Amor at eol_ieaust.org.au (Steve Amor)
>Subject: Re: pH and the uptake of CO2
>
>Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com,EOL-Inet writes:
>
>>Roger Miller
> wrote...
>
>>
>>There might be a little misconception here.
>>
>>The starting pH of an aquarium doesn't limit the CO2 concentration
that
>>you can get in a tank. You can get 15 ppm CO2 into a tank starting
from
>>pH 10 almost as readily as you can get it into a tank starting from pH
7.
>
>I can't get 15ppm CO2 in my tank when it's got a pH of 8.2. Not
according
>to the ph vs KH tables anyhow.
>
>> CO2 concentrations
>
>>are controlled mostly by the amounts of CO2 moving into and out of the
>>aquarium and the amounts being used up or generated in the aquarium.
>>
>> Normally,
>
>>though the alkalinity isn't that high and a pH of 8.4 implies a pretty
>>low CO2 concentration.
>
>These last two paragraphs seem to contradict each other. If CO2
>concentration is controlled by the amounts of CO2 moving into and
around
>my aquarium, then why does my CO2 concentration go up when I lower the
pH,
>when my CO2 injection rate stays the same?
>>
>>
>>At low CO2 concentrations and with other things being conducive, some
>>plants will start using bicarbonate as their carbon source, and some
will
>>not. I don't think there is any pH where that change occurs, and
>>certainly not one that's applicable to all plants.
>>
>At a pH of 8.2 my plants do not bubble and generally die back. When I
>lower the pH (and carbonate hardness as a result of the acids in the
water
>conditioner) the plants pick up and stream O2.
>
>Thus, I can only conclude that the CO2 is in my aquarium all along, but
in
>some for that the plants cannot make use of.
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------
>
>
>===============================================================
>Any replies, comments or general blurb to Steven Amor:
>Steve_Amor at eol_ieaust.org.au
>
>Why not check out my WEb Page? Just point your browser at:
>http://www.ozemail.com.au/~dianeamor
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 03:01:34 -0700
>From: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
>Subject: CO2, pH, KH and alkalinity - limitations
>
>You can only use the pH charts to estimate CO2 concentration where the
>only contribution to alkalinity is from carbonate/bicarbonate. If there
>is peat, black water extract, wood, humins, significant organic matter
>or soil, or other acids and bases in your tap water, the charts are not
>very accurate. Also, the CO2 test kits will also be affected by those
>acids (and bases). If the KH is rather high and the humins are fairly
>low, they can approximate it.
>
>IMHO, you are better off in those situations going strictly by bubble
>count and by observing the daily pH fluctutations.
>
>Steve Pushak Vancouver, BC, CANADA
>
>Visit "Steve's Aquatic Page" http://home.infinet.net/teban/
> for LOTS of pics, tips and links for aquatic gardening!!!
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 17 Sep 1998 06:50:16 -0700
>From: "Steven G. Friedman, M.D." <sfried at nshs_edu>
>Subject: e-mail
>
>How do we get the answers you provided to the questions that have been
>posted?
>
>Thank you.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:48:01 -0500
>From: George Slusarczuk <yurko at warwick_net>
>Subject: Re: Graingers?
>
>(snip)
> Four foot T-8 lamps cost $2.00 each at home depot and the ballasts
>> are $40.00 each from graingers http://www.graingers.com.
>
>Hello Paul.
>
>All I get at that "graingers" website is advertising for a website! Are
>you certain that it is a hardware/electrical store?
>
>Best,
>
>George S
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 10:34:56 -0500
>From: "John W. Lemons III" <jlemons at myriad_net>
>Subject: Re: MERCURY VAPOUR
>
>> are $40.00 each from graingers http://www.graingers.com. A major cost
of
>
>Thats: http://www.grainger.com/
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:43:20 EDT
>From: Piabinha at aol_com
>Subject: red-rust color algae
>
>will anything eat the red-rust colored algae that is growing in my
anubias?
>this is in my 29 gallon tank, which is the only tank with no
algae-eating
>fish.
>
>thanks.
>
>tsuh yang
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:33:53 -0230
>From: "J. Daniels" <jdaniels at servco_nf.net>
>Subject: Re: Glass
>
>> I came into this thread late so maybe this has already been discused
but, I've been looking all over for information about making DIY glass
aquariums and haven't been able to find anything. Bookstore, library,
LFS no one has been of anyhelp. I will try looking under material
sciences, but i also need to know about framing, and sealing. Can anyone
be of any help. Any info would be appreciated. THanks,
>>
>> Ri
>> Hey- by the way i tried looking at many web pages but to no
avail. I wonder if i didn't just miss it? The web is a big place.
>>
>> Kansas City, MO
>> cloudy and 78
>>
>
>I'll see if I can dig up the copies of the nomographs I mentioned. As
>far as framing and sealing go, the archives should have a good
>discussion on sealing agents as it was posed just a few days ago. Have
a
>look at the Krib archives and the others mentioned below.
>Here are some sites I found which were somewhat helpful for DIY tanks
>and the like.
>http://www.aquarium.net/diy/DIYindex.sht
>http://www.garf.org/140.gallon.html
>
>Also, I picked this off our local library web page. They may be
>availiable to you and have some relevant info.
>
>Personal author: Jenno, Tony
>Title: The aquarium technology handbook : fundamentals, equipment and
>practice / Tony Jenno.
>Edition: 2nd rev. ed. --
>Publication info: Newton Abbot : David & Charles, 1985.
>Physical description: 160 p. : ill. ; 23 cm.
>General note:Includes index.
>Bibliography note: Bibliography: p. 157.
>Held by:QEII
>LC Subject: Aquariums
>ISBN:0715386905 : $19.95
>Library has:SF/457/J34/1985 MAIN
>
>Jason Daniels
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 12:04:58 -0500
>From: "Hutton, Don" <DHutton at omnipoint_com>
>Subject: Re: Pump cavitation
>
>Steve Pushak wrote:
>>>>
>Cavitation never occurs on the outlet of a pump. The symptom of
>cavitation is noise, not bubbles. Still, leaks in the pump housing
might
>allow air to leak in. Checking for plugged input is a good maintenance
>habit to get into.
>
>Steve<<<
>
>Gee, thanks for setting me straight on this Steve. Maybe you could
>explain to me what's happening when I get a lot of bubbles in the
return
>line of my Iwaki pumps when I restrict the flow at the input of the
>pump. They're amazingly quiet while this is going on. You might also
>explain why the manufacturers of pumps warn against restricting the
flow
>at the input of a pump because it causes cavitation which can damage
the
>impeller.
>
>I was under the impression that the restricted flow caused the water to
>vaporize due to the low pressure created.
>
>Best regards,
>Don
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 11:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
>From: David Lyle Robinson <robinson at ichips_intel.com>
>Subject: Re: DIy glass aquariums
>
>> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 18:29:59 -0500 > From: R & R Fahnestock
<brickrd at swbell_net>
>> Subject: Re: DIy glass aquariums
>>
>> I came into this thread late so maybe this has already been discused
>> but, I've been looking all over for information about making DIY
glass
>> aquariums and haven't been able to find anything. Bookstore, library,
>> LFS no one has been of anyhelp. I will try looking under material
>> sciences, but i also need to know about framing, and sealing. Can
anyone
>> be of any help. Any info would be appreciated. THanks,
>>
>> Ri
>> Hey- by the way i tried looking at many web pages but to no
avail.
>> I wonder if i didn't just miss it? The web is a big place.
>
>There is a short article on how to do this on my discus web site.
>The direct link is:
>http://www.ee.pdx.edu/~davidr/discus/articles/DIYtanks.html
>
>It is not a comprehensive article, but is still useful enough to get
>you started.
>
>Regards,
>David Robinson The Discus Page
>David.Robinson at intel_com http://www.ee.pdx.edu/~davidr/
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 16 Sep 1998 13:25:29 -0500
>From: "Daniel Hawley" <dhawley at ibm_net>
>Subject: RO water/Tap water
>
>I have been using RO water for over a year because of the poor water
quality
>here in Waco, Texas. I have been adding Kents RO Right, Dupla KH-Bilder
and
>Duplagan to bring my KH to about 4 or 5. I have been considering adding
Waco
>tap water instead to bring my KH to 4 to 6. I am not a chemist and I
don't
>know how much tap water to add to the RO water. Here is the water
analysis
>that I received from my water treatment plant.
>
>Constituent Name Result
>Total hardness as CaCO3 179 mg/l
>Ph 7.5
>Tot. Alka as CaCO3 154 mg/l
>Bicarbonate 188 mg/l
>Carbonate 232 mg/l
>Nitrate (as N) 1.46 mg/l
>I would appreciate any help that someone can give. I would like to
know how
>many gallons of tap water I should add to bring water up to a KH of 4
or 5
>and a reasonable total hardness to match. I have lurked on this group
for
>quite awhile and have benefited by owning a beautiful planted aquarium.
>Daniel Hawley
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #518
>************************************
>
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