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Re: CO2 at dark periods and Photo lighting
>Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 10:59:18 EDT
>From: Dennis8425 at aol_com
>Subject: CO2 at dark periods
><< During the the ballasts heat the co2 system and it bubbles wonderfully
> at night it slows down or stops till the next morning.
> Is this acceptable or does it need to deliver co2 all night also?
> TV >>
>I have my CO2 on a a siliniod valve that only allows it on when the
>lights are on.
I believe the original poster referred to a yeast-DIY CO2 bottle. NEVER
put a solenoid valve on a yeast CO2 bottle. You could invite disasters
The heating/cooling cycle by the ballasts on the CO2 bottle is fine. In fact,
it does what Dennis did with solenoid valves and timers, automatically. ;-)
>Subject: Re:Photo lighting
>In a message dated 98-07-23 04:13:05 EDT, Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com
> I have been trying with little success to photograph my aquaria. One of
> the problems is that the pictures come out too yellow-green. I've been
> using Fuji ASA 400 or 200 film.
While I prefer the color tone of the Penn Plax Ultra Tri Lux bulbs (pure
white), it is hard to get the correct color tone in your picture if you are
using negative film. You can get the printer to adjust the tone of the
pictures to your taste, or adjust it by software if you're going to scan
them. If you are using slide film, try various filters. There are some
made for fluorescent lighting. They are suppose to eliminate the greenish
cast by warming it up (the filter is pinkish), but I think in your case, a
light purple filter may be better. An important point is that if you do
not use flash, then take your pictures at night, in a darkened room, so you
don't get reflections and stray light from external sources.
I never use flash on my aquarium pictures (