[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #304

I'd also like info. on plant suppliers - Canada and the U.S.
-----Original Message-----
From: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
Date: June 4, 1998 12:47 PM
Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #304

>Aquatic Plants Digest      Thursday, June 4 1998      Volume 03 : Number
>In this issue:
> Re: H2O2
> Re: BGA growth in 10 gal tank
> Re: BGA Algae
> Re: BGA Info
> 90G lighting
> PMDD design
> Re: Amazon Swords (Babies)
> Plant sellers on the web
>See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
>Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 18:29:39 +1000
>From: David Aiken <d.aiken at eis_net.au>
>Subject: Re: H2O2
>On 4/6/98 Matthew T. Mason wrote:
>>So while we are on the topic of H2O2, what dosage have others found to be
>>optimal for destroying BGA?  The latest post was 4 ounces/55g tank
>>(probably 45 gallons of water= 1 ounce/~10 gallons of water) in which it
>>was too much.  Any others who have had success with OTC H2O2?  Anyone
>>H2O2 from a chemical supply storehouse that does _not_ contain stabilizers
>>that OTC H2O2 does?  This would give the "pure" H2O2 a short half life and
>>might not destroy the biological bacteria bed if the water was changed or
>>filter was turned off as a preventative.
>I posted some comments on hydrogen peroxide and algae around November 97/
>January 98 (probably late December or early January) which will be easily
>found in the archives if you search under "silver" since the peroxide I
>referred to was stabilised with colloidal silver. There are doses in that
>posting but I don't have them readily available here at the moment.
>The advice I received when I got the H2O2/colloidal silver preparation
>was to build to the recommended dose slowly over 3-4 days. Given the
>recent posting mentioning burnt scales, I would strongly repeat that
>recommendation to anyone who tries adding H2O2 to a functioning tank.
>If you want to achieve a high ORP and need to do something to do so,
>there are at least three other suggestions worth considering. The first
>would be to simply increase the oxygen levels of your water through use
>of a trickle filter, increasing photosynthesis levels, or other normal
>approaches like that. These may also require you to increase CO2 doses if
>some CO2 outgassing occurs. The second option would be to use an
>ozoniser, borrowed for short term use if you can. The third would be to
>use something like Kent's PolyOx which seems to be simply a potassium
>permanganate solution. The doses Kent recommends should be safe for fish
>if not exceeded.
>There was a thread some months ago on appropriate ORP levels for planted
>tanks but I don't remember anyone having any real info on desirable
>levels to achieve based on actual planted tank experience. Any actual
>recommendations I've seen have been for reef tanks.
>David Aiken
>Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998 02:25:34 -0700
>From: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
>Subject: Re: BGA growth in 10 gal tank
>Michael Schmidt writes:
>> Steve wrote:
>> >I concur with Roger that we can't state in precise terms what stimulates
>> >BGA growth however the general causes, at least for common types
>> >indigenous to Vancouver, are well established as an excessive amount of
>> >soluble nutrients under strong lighting especially where the water is
>> >stagnant (not moving). This is fairly easy to demonstrate experimentally
>> >by setting up a bucket of stagnant water with compost or manure in it.
>> It is also fairly easy to refute by noting that my little 10 gal. tank
>> a 78gpm powerhead stirring things up pretty good, and I still get BGA.
>> What's more, my ammonia is at zero, my nitrite is at zero, and my nitrate
>> is about 1ppm. So, in some ways, it's about as far (in terms of nitrogen
>> nutrients and circulation) from a stagnant bucket of manure as you can
>You have not refuted the assertion that strong light, SOLUBLE NUTRIENTS
>and stagnant water encourage BGA algae to grow rapidly! You are just
>saying that you have other slightly different conditions where BGA grows
>(but perhaps not as rampantly) As I said, there are MANY kinds of
>cyanobacteria and some types are able to grow slowly under less than
>optimal conditions (for BGA). When you have conditions ideal for
>cyanobacteria, you have a very bad mess indeed!!! It can wipe out a tank
>in days.
>In your situation, it sounds as if your tank is nitrogen limited. It can
>still have an abundance of other soluble nutrients including phosphates.
>A lack of nitrogen certainly will NOT prevent BGA from growing. In order
>to test my assetion I think that if you were to remove your powerhead
>and add some manure to your tank (rich in ammonia AND phosphates) that
>you could get the walls and everything in your 10 gallon tank coated
>with blue-green slime in a few days!!!! I don't suggest you do it mind
>you unless you really want to prove a point.
>An alternative would be to remove the fish from your 10 gallon tank, add
>a little nitrogen or ammonium and perhaps some potassium and continue to
>keep the water circulating. As long as no other nutrients like calcium
>or magnesium are lacking, the plants should give a little burst of
>growth using up the phosphates. I bet you'll see a decline in BGA at
>that point. I would also recommend that you manually remove as much of
>the slime as possible. It tends to harm plants that it grows on and a
>colony of the stuff can persist for a time.
>Another way to test my assertion is to set up a 10 gallon with pure
>water (distilled preferably) in bright sunlight, no plants, no
>substrate, no nutrients. You can set it in bright sunshine with no
>circulation of any kind and inject a small big of your BGA into the
>tank. It will not flourish. In another container, add some manure,
>innoculate and in a couple days, presto! Slime city! [hee hee]
>Another more extreme method is to take your same 10 gallon tank with BGA
>in it, remove the fish, add snails and turn off the lights for a few
>days. The snails should eat the BGA in a couple of days. This isn't an
>ideal solution because the snails will also eat some of your plants. If
>you don't mind sharing with the snails that's fine. Personally, I like
>the Malaysian trumpet snails however they are not the ravenous algae
>eaters that the local breed of pond snails are. MTS don't eat the plants
>as bad as the pond snails and they reproduce more slowly. I think they
>also are more sensitive to calcium shortage in the water.
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 07:12:09 -0400 (EDT)
>From: ac554 at freenet_carleton.ca (David Whittaker)
>Subject: Re: BGA Algae
>Mark Lawrence Storch wrote....
>>I thought I would post a rather unorthodox treatment that recently made
>>short work of a BGA problem that I had.
>Last April I posted to this digest my belief that BGA does not
>survive in a tank with a high oxygen level. Usually we are able
>to produce this is our planted setups. Circulation just distributes
>this oxygenated water. The last paragraph read,
>"Maybe someone would like to experiment with hydrogen
>peroxide over a five day period. I bet that it would
>work in the short term."
>Now there is a doubt as to whether success is due to the oxygen
>released or the anti-bacterial properties of the H2O2.
>Every summer BGA reappears in some of my tanks. It coincides with
>the advent of higher temperatures, and of course lower oxygen levels.
>The tanks unaffected, even though very warm (82F - 86F), all house
>submersed plants with very high growth rates. In one of these tanks
>I can place hydrotriche coated with BGA, and within 2 days the
>cyanobacteria are gone. There must be plenty of dissolved organic
>matter in the water -little filtration and the last water change
>was about five weeks ago.
>Someone finally got up the nerve to try the peroxide. Now we know
>something. A few months back I read that there is a company that
>sells a stabilized oxygen solution to treat BGA.
>- --
>Dave Whittaker
>ac554 at FreeNet_Carleton.ca
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 98 8:24:53 MDT
>From: "Marshall F. Wilkinson" <wilkinso at acs_ucalgary.ca>
>Subject: Re: BGA Info
>Hi kids
>The April 24 edition of Science featured a blurb on
>"Cyanosite". This is website devoted to cyanobacteria info. Those
>that are particularly keen on finding out about BGAs etc may be
>able to find info via this page.
>There are over 5300 references that are searchable. Do you think
>that someone has done the experiment looking into Nitrogen
>requirements of BGA? (Steve P.?)
>Marshall Wilkinson
>Calgary Alberta
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 11:11:29 -0400 (EDT)
>From: "David Thomas Gauthier" <gauthie9 at pilot_msu.edu>
>Subject: 90G lighting
>Hello, all..
>I am doing a DIY hood for a 90 g (48X18X24), and have gone through the most
>recent lighting documents on the Krib.  I am planning on installing T8 48"
>tubes (Staybright 850s), and am wondering whether to got with 4 or 6.  From
>what I read, I assume the former would give me around 2 w/gal, while the
>would give me around 3 w/gal.  Problem is, my price goes up quite a bit if
>need 6 tubes, as I would need two ballasts rather than 1.  So, if 4 would
>adequate, that would be preferable.  Vegetation will be primarily SE Asian
>(Crypts, Anubias, Java).  Has anyone had success with 4 tubes over this
>tank, or should I go ahead and buy the extra ballast?  Thanks.
>                                                Rgds.
>                                                Dave Gauthier
>                                                gauthie9 at pilot_msu.edu
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 13:43:18 -0300
>From: "Vernon Matheson" <vmath at nbnet_nb.ca>
>Subject: PMDD design
>I would like to know what would the best PMDD formula be, based on the
>enclosed water analysis..
>Thanks in advance..
>Hardness calculated Duret ( CaCO3 ) - 25.3 mg/l
>Nitrate - .030 mg/l
>Aluminum - .035 mg/l
>Alkalinity, total ( CaCO3 ) - 15.3 mg/l
>Arsenic - < 1.0 ug/l
>Boron - < .200 mg/l
>Barium - .025 mg/l
>Bromide - < .100 mg/l
>Calcium - 8.09 mg/l
>Cadmium - < .500 ug/l
>Chloride - 8.85 mg/l
>Conductivity - 77.9 USIE/CM
>Chromium - < .010 mg/l
>Copper - .204 mg/l
>Fluoride - .964 mg/l
>Iron - .200 mg/l
>Mercury - < .050 ug/l
>Potassium - .453 mg/l
>Magnesium - .019 mg/l
>Sodium - 3.66 mg/l
>Nitrite - < .05 mg/l
>Nitrate - .08 mg/l
>Lead - 1.1 ug/l
>pH - 6.68
>Antimony - < 1.0 ug/l
>Selenium - 1.0 ug/l
>Sulfate - 7.15 mg/l
>Thallium - < 1.0 ug/l
>Turbidity - .6 NTU
>Uranium - < .5 ug/l
>Zinc - < .010 mg/l
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 98 12:40:37 EDT
>From: rjw at aluxs_micro.lucent.com (Ronald Wozniak)
>Subject: Re: Amazon Swords (Babies)
>>Date: Wed, 03 Jun 1998 18:08:59 -0400
>>From: Frank Jones <fjones at clover_net>
>>Subject: Amazon Swords
>>I have what looks like a "new baby amazon sword" on the tip of one of it's
>>long shoots. It is next to the glass so it is up in the water column. It
>>has 3 leaves and 2 roots coming off. Should I cut it off and plant it or
>Here's what I do.  I wait 'til the baby swords are about 1/4 to 1/3 the
>of it's parent, then I cut the stalk close to the parent's base.  By hand,
>carefully break off the baby plants from the stalk. I usually get about 3
to 4
>baby plants per clump.  There's usually several clumps per stalk. Since I
>until the babies are fairly big, they have already developed roots and are
>to be planted.  I've gotten hundreds of babies swords this way.
>- ---------------
>Ron Wozniak  Allentown PA, USA
>rjwozniak at lucent_com
>AGA member
>Date: Thu, 4 Jun 1998 11:58:51 -0500
>From: "lmills" <lmills at socket_net>
>Subject: Plant sellers on the web
>I changed computers at work and at home at roughly the same time and
>managed to lose a bunch of miscellaneous bookmarks --  including a
>collection of websites of  aquarium and/or pond plant sellers.  I would
>very much appreciate hearing from those of you with similar collections so
>I can reconstruct.
>End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #304
>To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
>    unsubscribe aquatic-plants
>in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com".  Archives are
>available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
>or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.