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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #189
Aquatic Plants Digest wrote:
>
> Aquatic Plants Digest Wednesday, April 8 1998 Volume 03 : Number 189
>
> In this issue:
>
> test kits
> Re: Trapa natans
> Algae growth in CO2 Reactor
> Re: Red soil
> Re:Nothing Under... Please...NO
> lighting for Crypts
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #188
> Re: Nothing under the gravel
> ballast for 24 inch, t-8 bulbs
> Metal Halide
> hard water / peat substrates
> Substrate for Aponogeton rigidifolious
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #185
> Re: Aquaterrararium.
>
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 14:03:38 -0700
> From: Jim Wilson <freaks at aracnet_com>
> Subject: test kits
>
> I know that the kits form Lamotte are superior (superior price too) but
> will the following kits work?:
> Seachem: Nitrate
> Phosphate
> Iron
> Buying all Lamotte kits will cost an extra $90!!! Should I just bite the
> bullet and go for the Lamotte? Any info from folks with experience using
> the Seachem or any other reliable kits would be greatly apreciated.
>
> Also has anyone had good results with GH kits other than Lammote's GH kit
> ($35).
>
> I do plan on getting Lamotte's pH and KH kits.
>
> This will be my first planted tank and I want to know whats going on, in
> it. Are there any other recomended test kits?
>
> I have about twenty years experience with unplanted FW tanks and three
> years of SW tanks (I haven't done the SW for about six years). And I think
> that the discovery of this list is the best thing that has happened during
> that time. That is untill I have my first sucessful palnted tank!
>
> tia,
> jim
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 15:49:36 -0500
> From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
> Subject: Re: Trapa natans
>
> FORWARDED MESSAGE:
>
> >From: Sebastien Amodeo <m231674 at er_uqam.ca>
> >X-Sender: m231674 at nobel_si.uqam.ca
> >To: krandall at world_std.com
> >cc: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> >Subject: Re: Water chestnut (Trapa natans)
>
> >sorry about the omission! I forgot to specify that Trapa natans was
> >_already_ present in the lake!
> >
> >Thanks anyways for the observation!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:16:24 -0400
> From: "James Purchase" <jpurch at interlog_com>
> Subject: Algae growth in CO2 Reactor
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> This morning, while puttering around my tank, I noticed that my CO2 Reactor,
> which contains Dupla Minicascades (small bio-balls) and has a strong
> downward flow of CO2 and water, is developing a lot of what appears to be
> long stringy green algae. I haven't seen this before, nor have I read
> anything about it in any post on CO2 Reactors. Has anyone experinced growth
> of algae within their CO2 Reactors? (the main tank is O.K., a bit of easily
> removed green algae on the glass but certainly no "plague")
>
> James Purchase
> jpurch at interlog_com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 15:07:29 -0700
> From: "Toan T." <RiceGuy at stones_com>
> Subject: Re: Red soil
>
> Hi,
> Remember a while back reading a thing on red clays. Sorry
> I can't remember the writer to credit. But I remember him
> writing that the red color is a definite indication of
> iron (actually rust). He said that he worked in the clay
> industry for years and found it to be very hard to color
> clay without iron oxide. I am guessing that this is
> likewise for soil. I can't imagine anything else that
> could cause the soil to have a red color.
>
> >From what I learned from S. Pushak, I am guessing that
> the iron rich soil would make an excellent bottom layer.
> Check out his page yet?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 15:03:11 -0700
> From: sae at arts_ubc.ca
> Subject: Re:Nothing Under... Please...NO
>
> >From: "Merrill Cohen" <amc2 at ix_netcom.com>
> >Subject: Nothing under the gravel
> >
> >This is really open for discussion............
> <LARGE SNIP>
> >Why not let the waste of the fish be utilized instead of so many
> >questionable substrates?
> >
> >Once again, this is open for discussion for a "new thread".
>
> Merrill,
>
> I'm not being critical or picky here, but, this discussion would hardly be
> a "new thread"... substrates have been done to death...gravel, soil,
> laterite, Terralit, Jobes Sticks, kitty litter.....Pleeeese.... NOT AGAIN!!
> Let's go back to what colour is water in a white bucket....<G>
>
> Olga
> in Vancouver
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 15:20:05 -0700
> From: Stephen Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
> Subject: lighting for Crypts
>
> Olga wrote in response to Bebbetufs "Please help..giving up!":
> > >- -Preveausly I had approx. 70w of fluorecent lightning, but
> > >decided to get a 250w MH. lamp.
> >
> > You have changed your lighting drastically.
> > Swords and crypts do well in
> > low-medium light. They would take time to adjust
> > to such a big light boost
> > plus they both like a rich substrate which was also disturbed.
> > One could expect the crypts to melt [right Steve?].
>
> Yes. Most Crypt species will melt with such an increase in light however
> they will recover in a few weeks given good conditions. Incidentally,
> Crypts don't _have_ to be grown under low-medium light but are tolerant.
> I think many people grow very nice Crypts under strong light, even
> sunlight under emersed humid conditions. That is how to get them to
> flower.
>
> Steve
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 18:44:02 -0400
> From: Dan Q <dqallwet at avana_net>
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #188
>
> > >------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 10:35:07 PST8PDT
> > From: "Darrell Roze" <roze at excaliber_commerce.ubc.ca>
> > Subject: ricca and java moss
> >
> > If a problem with getting the java moss and ricca to hold together is
> > the java moss flipping, would it be better to just grow them in a
> > shallow container and just let them grow together instead of worrying
> > keeping them sandwiched together?
>
> I suspect the Riccia would still float to the top, and the Java Moss to the bottom. Actually, the flipping is not a big problem, you just need
to check it d
> two plants have there own idea of where how much of each belongs. It may work just as well to try and keep the Java Moss on top of the Riccia
for a week or so
> ended up with that can be used on top of the substrate. At least I think you should be able to. I haven't found enough bare substrate
anywhere to try it so I'
> The one piece that I did attach to the bottom is now about 7 1/2" high and 5 " wide. Now that I removed that big slab of Riccia from the
surface I' m hoping
> A side note about Riccia. The biggest grower that I know of that has Riccia is in Florida. As soon as the water warms up (which is about now)
the Riccia disap
>
> > It sounds like a really good idea to grow these two plants together.
> > I was wondering what they look like. Does it look primarily like a clump of
> > ricca?
> >
>
> You have to look hard to see the Java Moss. I hope some others try this and have the same success. It is gorgeous.
>
> Dan Quackenbush
> All Aquatic Plants
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 17:45:53 -0600 (MDT)
> From: George Booth <booth at hpmtlgb1_lvld.hp.com>
> Subject: Re: Nothing under the gravel
>
> > Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 14:28:21 -0400
> > From: "Merrill Cohen" <amc2 at ix_netcom.com>
> >
> > I have several very attractive aquariums (IMO) that have been set up for
> > over six years with NOTHING under the three inches of silica gravel. I
> > keep lots of fish (not an overload) and the fish mulm goes down into the
> > gravel.
> >
> > Why not let the waste of the fish be utilized instead of so many
> > questionable substrates?
>
> I have no trouble believing a substrate free of additives will support execllent
> growth. When we had our UGF tank, it produced tons of lush growth. I even
> suspect (but can't prove) that it supported better growth than our "high tech"
> tanks for the majority of the plants we've kept.
>
> However, there are three concerns with this approach:
>
> 1) How long does it take to get the tank to a state where it supports good
> growth? I believe the aquarists of antiquity called this a "seasoned" tank (as
> opposed to a "cycled" tank that has all the bacterial fauna in place). I
> remember we had problems with the UGF tank at first, lo these many years ago.
> After we started with CO2 and Dupla, it really took off. Or was it
> coincidentally now properly seasoned?
>
> There are many stories of people struggling with a tank for a good number of
> months, only to have it suddenly snap into vibrant life. Was it the last thing
> they tried (to be endlessly posted to UseNet as the "hot setup") or did the tank
> finally settle in with the proper balance of fish waste #2 and plants?
>
> With the modern day need for instant gratification, I think people are searching
> for the "instant on" approach where plants will be growing robustly right from
> the git-go. Many search for the magic formula, whether it's Alphabet Soup
> substrates or Dollar Gobbling High Tech. Is the magic formula simply patience?
>
> 2) How difficult is it to "create the right balance" in the simple tank? I
> would bet that I could not duplicate (not to be confused with the more expensive
> Duplacate) my success with the UGF tank. Oh, I thought it might have been the
> "slow flow" produced by just the right model and number of powerheads or the
> "proper" fertilizers, CO2 and lights. I bet those helped, but I bet even more
> that we had just the right number of fish and fed them just the right amount of
> food and had just the right mix of plants and we struggled just long enough for
> the system to be seasoned.
>
> While it may be possible for someone to duplicate their own results, it may be
> more problematical for others in different parts of the country to produce the
> same results. Different local dirt, different tap water, different husbandry
> skills, different expectations, etc.
>
> 3) How long will the right conditions exist? We had to do massive vacuuming of
> the UGF tank every 6-9 months to keep things "stable". We would sense that
> things were not up to snuff and pull all the plants up and vacuum like the
> dickens. Then things were great for another 6-9 months. We had lots of fish
> with hearty appettites. Maybe we overfed, causing perceived cycles.
>
> Or was it the act of pulling up the plants, doing a thorough trimming ("tough
> love") and replanting them that did the trick? Maybe alleopathic substances
> were builing up around the roots (even with the UGF) and causing trouble.
>
> I think our high tech tanks are much more stable than the UGF tank ever was. The
> need for high tech may simply be a consequence of our desire to keep more fish
> than we should. Clearly, Merrill is doing quite well with a simple, well
> balanced schema.
>
> The high tech approach is [un]naturally better "balanced" since we actively do
> the balancing by throwing money at the problem. WE control the pH, WE control
> the nitrates, etc.
>
> George
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 21:16:07 -0400
> From: "Robert NG" <97ngrobe at scar_utoronto.ca>
> Subject: ballast for 24 inch, t-8 bulbs
>
> does anyone know if there is any ballast that can run 4, 24inch, t-8 bulbs.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 18:41:09 -0700
> From: "Shane M. Peter" <pgahopefull at earthlink_net>
> Subject: Metal Halide
>
> Good evening! I was curious; is there a vast difference between metal
> halide bulbs other than the wattage? I guess what I want to know is if there
> is a "wrong" metal halide to buy. And, most people say that to have a
> successful planted tank you need to have at least 2 watts/gallon. However,
> the lumens that a metal halide produces is at least 4 times the amount of
> any incandescent or fluorescent bulb. So, does the same 2 watts/gallon still
> have to be adhered to? Thanks.
>
> Shane
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 19:55:39 -0700
> From: "Toan T." <RiceGuy at stones_com>
> Subject: hard water / peat substrates
>
> What possible methods are there to reduce water hardness?
> I know two; deionization and reverse osmosis. are there
> any other ways of reducing hardness? I'm still very
> confused on the subject of water hardness -- the scales,
> the types of hardness -- despite my efforts to understand
> it.
>
> I recently read that the addition of peat would render
> the chart many people use to determine CO2 concentration
> by measuring water hardness and pH to be inaccurate. This
> makes sense, because peat moss only lowers pH and not
> water hardness... doesn't it?
>
> ***************
> Today, I found myself lost in thought... it was
> unfamiliar grounds.
> ***************
> - -Toan Tran
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 23:13:19 -0400
> From: Bernard Romano <romano at pathway1_pathcom.com>
> Subject: Substrate for Aponogeton rigidifolious
>
> Hello everyone,
> I'm new to the group but I've been here for over a year really. My water
> has a KH of 1.5 and finding tolerent species of plants is challenging. So
> far, Bolbitis heudelotii is doing well. I'm considering getting Aponogeton
> rigidifolius as it needs a KH of between 1 and 3 dCH according to Barron's
> Aquarium Plants Manual and Hans A. Baensch's Aquarium Atlas 2. I will be
> buying it from Tropica but what bothers me is that on the Tropica website
> they state that it needs a well fertilized ground while the two books I've
> just mentioned say the exact opposite, that there must be practically no
> nutrients. Who is right? Also, Tropica's "Tiger" Vallisneria is supposed to
> tolerate soft water according to the website description of it but I'm
> wondering if anyone has had experience with what this variety of
> vallisneria likes. With the soft water that I have I'd be asking for
> biogenic decalcification with other types of vallisneria for sure. Thanks
> for your help.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 7 Apr 1998 22:40:11 -0500
> From: "dakota" <dakota at startext_net>
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #185
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com>
> To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
> Date: Monday, April 06, 1998 2:52 AM
> Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #185
>
> >
> >Aquatic Plants Digest Monday, April 6 1998 Volume 03 : Number 185
> >
> >
> >
> >In this issue:
> >
> > [none]
> > steve's substrate
> > PMDD QUESTION
> > My Final Thoughts.
> > My setup & water parameters(long)
> > Water chestnut (Trapa natans)
> >
> >See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> >Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> >
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------Hi
> all...Ive been reading the posts for quite some time and would like to ask a
> few questions,if anyone has time ...What is this PMDD stuff some are talking
> about? I have been TRYING to grow some plants in a 55 gal tank with mixed
> results.I would like to try some fertilizer but dont want to kill or sicken
> the fish..Could some one give me some pointers? TIA Charles
> >
> >Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 15:04:37 -0500
> >From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
> >Subject: [none]
> >
> >FORWARDED MESSAGE:
> >
> >>Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 22:47:03 -0800
> >>From: Rice <RiceGuy at stones_com>
> >>To: Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> >>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #121
> >>
> >>I wrote sent this a few days back, but didn't see it. If
> >>this is a double post, I apologize.
> >>
> >>Finally, today, after much efforts, I started to cut off
> >>*GREEN* leaves! All I can say is sincerest thanks to all of
> >>you, especially Steve Pushak, who devoted hours of his time
> >>to privately correspond with me and who made sure I did it
> >>right. All of you who were ever so kind to help out the
> >>newbie... I can't say enough of how great a list this is, or
> >>of how much collective knowledge is found on here.
> >>
> >>I see a few little baby plants popping up from nowhere-
> >>isn't it so cool? Already, I'm imagining my future 300
> >>gal planted tank... awwwiiiieeeee! Hope I win the lottery
> >>soon.
> >>
> >>I've been wondering if freezing PMDD (the stuff that has
> >>already been mixed) would help. would it help preserve it?
> >>or would that be counter productive?
> >>
> >>I recently found out that I have too much Mg in my pmdd;
> >>about twice as much as recommended in the formula. Is this
> >>bad?
> >> As of now, my tank (50 gal hexagon) is vacant,
> >>except for a
> >>few ghost shrimps. thinking of adding a pair of discus. My
> >>water, however, is very unfavorable for keeping soft, acidic
> >>water fishes. pH is around 8.3 and I'm guessing that the
> >>hardness is around 22 KH. Now, if I want to lower the pH, I
> >>can do one of the following or a combination: 1) increase
> >>CO2 (unlikely to be very effective because I dont want CO2
> >>poisoning), I figured that i can get the pH to 7.34 if I
> >>increase CO2 to 30 ppm. 2) add peat. Probably won't need to
> >>do that because my substrate is already partly made of peat.
> >>pH would lower over time. Only, this would mean that I can't
> >>change the water that often. Thinking of making an automatic
> >>water changer... so you can see my conflict. 3) use RO
> >>water. seems to be the best choice, but a real hassle
> >>though. changing water with a 5 gallon bottle doesn't sound
> >>very fun. 4) not changing water at all. Please advice me
> >>here, I have no clue as to what will result form this.
> >> Hooking the RO up as the automatic water changer is
> >>not a
> >>option. Can't afford it, need the RO for drinking water,
> >>parents wont let, yada, yada, yada... Any expensive options
> >>are out of the question; my budget is in my wallet, and my
> >>wallet is rather thin and sickly looking. :-| I've been
> >>doing pretty good on my spending so far, (substrate <-- most
> >>expensive!, CO2, aquarium stand, reactor, lights, gravel,
> >>plants, heater, power head, fertilizer, etc..), ran a total
> >>of about $100 (got tank for free). pretty good huh? Anyway,
> >>if you can think of anyway to get a low pH at a low cost,
> >>please let me know.
> >>And once again, thanks to all of you- amazing I got this
> >>far.
> >>-RiceGuy
> >>
> >>
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 23:03:18 -0700
> >From: "Toan T." <RiceGuy at stones_com>
> >Subject: steve's substrate
> >
> >There was someone a short while back that was about to
> >try steve's substrate method. Just wanted to tell that
> >person that his method worked for me! Plants look great!
> >And the thing I like best about it is that it is cheap.
> >Oh yeah, Steve, how long does your substrate last? 2, 3
> >years? think I can stretch that if I start adding pmdd
> >when the plants start to show signs of deficiency?
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 11:20:42 +0800
> >From: Michael Cordero <taburnok at skyinet_net>
> >Subject: PMDD QUESTION
> >
> >hi me again .. i need to know if there are sources for PMDD INGREDIENTS
> >who can do mail order and ship here to MANILA .. if someone
> >out there has any info on this please help out .. im really interested
> >in rolling my own ... TIA
> >
> >MIKE
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Date: Sun, 5 Apr 1998 19:48:06 -0700 (PDT)
> >From: Thomas Moeller <n9345228 at cc_wwu.edu>
> >Subject: My Final Thoughts.
> >
> >First, my apologies for continuing this thread. I realize the topic has
> >been closed by our adminstrator, but I would like to put a peaceful end to
> >all of this, so we can better continue with what we all love to do and
> >that's keeping aquatic plants. First, although easily mistaken, my
> >orignal post was meant to be a sharing of a great deal, of which I thought
> >a lot of people could relate to. You see, I am a senior at Western
> >Washington University and not suprisingly have no money and usually pay
> >more money into my fish hobby every month than buying food for myself. As
> >you know, keeping fish and aquatic plants in a serious way is not for
> >those without money....nevertheless, my *deal* at Petsmart in finding 35
> >Anubia congensis for $1.49 each was just that, a great deal! Especially
> >for a poor college kid who now could play with 35 awesome plants. Just
> >to clarify, I did not steal. You can twist it anyway you like. There
> >were no other price tags that said Anubia...nor have I ever seen them in
> >that store before! Yes, I guessed that they had goofed in a big way, but
> >I don't feel I have an overwhelming duty to society to point out
> >everyone's mistakes, especially in the retail world. Finally, I find it
> >quite disgusting if not surprising that you would all berate me (in some
> >cases multiple times by the same people) and send me such things as quotes
> >from the bible, calling me a communist, a thief, a criminal, etc
> >etc....come on people. Surely we can all get excited about this and yes,
> >it's easy to mistaken things on email...they come across in different ways
> >to different people...but let's calm down. Once again, my goal was to
> >voice my excitement about these great plants and the fact I got a great
> >deal. I am sure that *IF* this was a mistake by Petsmart, it won't hurt
> >anybody's retirement fund, send me to hell, or alienate me from society.
> >Now, we are all fairly intelligent people with a great common interest.
> >Let's put this behind us and talk about aquatic plants. My apologies for
> >taking up bandwith with this and previous off-topic post/responses. -Tom
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 00:39:34 -0400
> >From: "Thomas E. Cooper" <avian at ee_net>
> >Subject: My setup & water parameters(long)
> >
> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >- --------------43E0E857315
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >
> >Here we go again.
> > I respectfully ask for someone to please read this and answer my
> >Quetions please. I have sent a few posts to the list so far and most
> >went unanswered. I will be sending for a report from the water co., and
> >will be comparing my test results with theres'.
> >
> >- --
> >Aint nature grand
> >
> >Thom
> >
> >- --------------43E0E857315
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> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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> > nts/month.9803/msg00538.html"
> >
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> >
> ><!--X-Subject: My setup & water parameters(long) -->
> ><!--X-From: "Thomas E. Cooper" <avian at ee_net> -->
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> ><LI><strong>To</strong>: <strong><A
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> g></LI>
> ><LI><strong>Subject</strong>: <strong>My setup & water
> parameters(long)</strong></LI>
> ><LI><strong>From</strong>: <strong>"Thomas E. Cooper" <<A
> HREF="mailto:avian at ee_net">avian at ee_net</A>></strong></LI>
> ><LI>Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:41:07 -0500</LI>
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> ><PRE>
> >Hi all
> > I have been lurking awhile. I have got my setup together execpt for
> >the plants. My water parameters are abit confusing to me. Any help
> >would be appreciated.
> > I own a ninety gallon tank, my filteration is a magnum 350(350gph)
> >canister filter, I have Ehiem ceramic tiles in the charcol slieve. I
> >also have a Emporer powerfilter (400GPH) by Penguin on the back of the
> >tank. It has the pads that came with it , they have some charcol in
> >them. In the cartriges I have Fluval peat granuals. Right now I also
> >have an undergravel filter powered by 2 Penguin 550 powerheads (145GPH
> >each) reverse flow. The The gravel for this filter is 1-3mm, and about
> >5" thick I plan on adding Duplarit k Pellets to the subsrtrate. The
> >lighting will be provided 2 40W Flora-Glow by Hagen, and 2 40W Aqual-Glo
> >also by Hagen. There will be one of each in both striplights, plus two
> >20W 24" cool white bulbs in the original striplight. The two new
> >striplights have alunimium reflectors. I have four halfgrown Leatacara
> >curviceps, five young Bleedinghearts, one Corydoras jullii, 3 C.swartzi,
> >and one Otocinclus sp.(I started with 3).
> >I plan on adding three more Bleedinghearts, and eight Cardinal tetras.
> >I do have some algea, but not much. Mainly just the bright green stuff
> >that sticks to the glass. I plan on getting a small Pleco till the
> >plants come then replacing him with acouple SAEs. I do 30% waterchanges
> >every week. I condition the new water with Tetra's Aquasafe. The temp is
> >around eightyfive.( The heater only runs in the dead of winter, I have
> >been unsuccessful in lowering the temp.).
> > I did tests on both my tap water and the aquarium water with Red Sea
> >Pharm Ltd's Deluxe Fresh lab.. I did a waterchange about a week before
> >the test.
> >
> > Tap Tank
> >Ph 7.2 6.2
> >KH 1 Deg. O Deg.
> >GH 7 Deg. 7 Deg.
> >Fe 0.1 ppm O.1 ppm
> >Nitrite 0 ppm 0.05 ppm
> >Toxic NH O 0.00075ppm
> >Co2 10 Triation The color wouldn't change.?????
> >
> >
> >The tank has been up and running for five years without the Penguin
> >power filter and therefor no Peat. It used to have a large Population
> >of Central american cichlids. They did very well.
> > My Question is are. Before adding plants should I turn off the
> >undergravel filter and use the powerheads for watermovement. Is the
> >substrate two thick, If not how do I keep the substrate from turning
> >anoxic if the ugf filter isn't running. Obviously the PH and the KH are
> >too low Does this have to do with the fact that I couldn't get a reading
> >on the Co2 in the tank water. I thought that central Ohio's water was
> >high Ph and KH because all the limestone, which is calciumcarbonate.
> >The GH seems to be just alittle high. Should I remove the peat from the
> >powerfilter. I plan on makeing some PMDD from recipes in the archives.
> >Any thoughts on geting my water parameters in line for plants. I know
> >this was very long. Thanks for youre patience.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >- --
> >Aint nature grand
> >
> >Thom
> ></PRE>
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> >- --------------43E0E857315--
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Date: Mon, 06 Apr 1998 00:28:29 -0500
> >From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
> >Subject: Water chestnut (Trapa natans)
> >
> >>Date: Sun, 05 Apr 1998 21:29:20 -0400
> >>From: "Sibastien Amodeo" <m231674 at er_uqam.ca>
> >>To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com, m231674 at er_uqam.ca
> >>Subject: Water chestnut (Trapa natans)
> >>
> >>Hello all!
> >>
> >>I'm a master's student (environmental sciences) at the University of
> >>Quibec in Montrial, and our team is researching the possibility of using
> >>the water chestnut (Trapa natans) as a possible way of removing surplus
> >>phosphorus in an eutrophic lake. We have chosen this plant because it is
> >>also a non-native aquatic plant causing problems with lake users.
> >>
> >>We need the most information possible on this plant, especially
> >>concerning its reproduction, life cycle, and anything related to
> >>nutrient (particularly phosphorus) uptakes.
> >>
> >>Our idea was to restrain the plants in a certain area, using a dyke or
> >>specially designed fences, and to collect the plants once they have
> >>grown. The collected plants could then serve as compost or other uses.
> >>
> >>If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, remarks, or experience that could
> >>be helpful, please contact me directly (I'm not on the mailing list).
> >>
> >>Thank you very much!
> >>
> >>Sibastien Amodeo
> >>m231674 at er_uqam.ca
> >>http://www.er.uqam.ca/nobel/m231674
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #185
> >************************************
> >
> >To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
> > unsubscribe aquatic-plants
> >in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com". Archives are
> >available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
> >or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 07 Apr 1998 21:25:28 PDT
> From: "Kent Turner" <tropic_cove at hotmail_com>
> Subject: Re: Aquaterrararium.
>
> > Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 19:03:03 +0400
> > From: "Gerald Lisik" <dogl at intnet_mu>
> >
> > I'm new to this list and this is my first post: Can someone give
> me general
> > tips and instructions to make an aquaterrarium based on her/his
> experience?
> > My girlfriend always wanted me to start one and I found the idea
> > attractive, plants both on land and under water, in the same
> tank!! thanks
> > to all,
>
> The new trendy name for this is "paludarium", from the Latin paludus
> = swamp.
> I suggest you search the web with this key - there are some
> interesting sites
> out there, but I don't have the URLs handy.
>
> I have been a lurker here for some time about a year ago, and again
> recently, but have never tried posting here before. This message is to
> see if this works, and also because I thought that if you were
> interested in different ideas to set up a paludarium, you may want to
> check out the paludarium page of my website,
> http://members.tripod.com/~Tropic_Cove/paludarium.html
> This isn't a very graphics oriented site, so you won't see lots of
> paludarium pictures, but it does briefly describe some of the basic
> types of paludarium setups. BTW, this list is great! I learned a lot a
> year ago, and remember when Dr. Quackenbush was busy defending his kitty
> litter method. It's strange to see it so popular now, remembering all
> the heat it stirred up back then!
> - -Kent Turner
> Tropic Cove
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #189
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> or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT