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Micro fine bubbles all in tank
My planted tank has developed a case of thousands, probably millions of microsized
bubbles. I had a problem where too much co2 was released the other day, but other than
that I dont know where they could be coming from. The canister hasnt been cleaned for
two weeks, and they dont appear to be coming from it. I shut off the canister for 15
minutes and some bubbles float to the top, but they dont seem to be much in a hurry to do
it. I get pearling from most of my plants, and the only thing different lately has been
the addition of 8 otto cats. Any ideas what else to look for, I check my connections and
fittings and cant see anything wrong. Could it be oxygen bubbles, but why so many, I can
still see some coming from the plants but never so many. Thanks
Chris
Aquatic Plants Digest wrote:
> Aquatic Plants Digest Thursday, December 11 1997 Volume 02 : Number 1130
>
> In this issue:
>
> re: Karen`s System ?
> Re: Possible Deficiency ?
> Re: Planted discus spawning tank
> PMDD /calcium
> Re: Nutrient Deficiency/Ghost Shrimp
> Re: biweekly water changes
> Re: SAE in Denver
> Was nutrient limitation, now conversational kagaroo
> Plexiglass Construction Methods
> Re: Ghost SHrimp ID
>
> See the end of the digest for information on unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 00:28:53 -0800
> From: Stephen Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
> Subject: re: Karen`s System ?
>
> Karen wrote: Anything pressing that I didn't mention?
>
> Yes, you haven't specifically mentioned potassium supplements. Do you
> find it rarely necessary to supplement it? Is it found in your tap
> water? When you do feel the occasional need to add a nutrient, what have
> you added? (aside from TMG) I know that TMG has K but (in my situation)
> I think it is inadequate for a strongly lit tank with no shortage of N
> or P. Put another way, the ratio of Fe to K is too high. Same comment
> for PMDD; too much Fe and other trace nutrients.
>
> Another suggestion for a cookbook recipe for plants is to start with as
> much information from the local water utility as you can get. This will
> tell you if calcium, potassium, magnesium are going to be lacking. Few
> places have tap water low in these minerals but it can be frustrating if
> you don't know it. All of the above are macro nutrients. Sulfer is the
> "Other" macro nutrient we almost never mention because it's plentiful in
> fish food and commonly as an ion (sulfate) in tap water.
>
> BTW, potassium shortages are easy to spot; yellow spots and dying older
> leaves so its easy to add a bit of K2SO4 and cure a tank for a very long
> time. I would suggest 1/2 tsp in 40 gals to increase the potassium
> concentration by about 10 ppm when its short.
>
> I guess we should also point out that your (APD reader's) nutrient
> strategy will also be affected if you use soils, peat or substrate
> fertilizers of various kinds.
>
> Steve
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 00:55:29 -0800
> From: Stephen Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
> Subject: Re: Possible Deficiency ?
>
> Andy Moore wrote:
> > small brown spots over the leaves of my plants - these
> > develop into larger holes and eventually destroy the leaves.
> > more noticeable on my broader leaved plants.
> >
> > I use PMDD and tank parameters are roughly as follows:-
> >
> > PK 6.7-6.9, NO3 <10 mg/ltr, NO2 Nil, Fe circa 0.1, PO4 circa 0.015, GH 5, KH 3-4
> > Gallonage is 50 UK Gallons - 2ml of PMDD added daily
>
> I don't suspect a micronutrient shortage; if anything, perhaps a
> toxicity symptom if you had too much of one micro nutrient. No further
> evidence to indicate that however. You didn't mention the substrate so
> I'll presume nothing there except gravel and possibly laterite or other
> inorganic additives like clay, vermiculite, kitty litter. (no P in
> those)
>
> The macro nutrients which could cause the problem you describe if in
> short supply are: potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus and magnesium.
> Typically the older leaves tend to become yellowish before dying and
> yellow spots precede the brown ones. Your PMDD dosing probably includes
> enough N and K and Mg. Perhaps you have an acute shortage of phosphorus.
> This might be the case if the problem plant is a fast grower like an
> Hygrophila species. What are the plants which are showing symptoms or
> growth patterns you don't like? Are there any curling of the leaf edges?
> Also examine the new leaves for any deformation or yellowing. Those are
> the other kinds of symptoms to watch for.
>
> To test the theory, (I wouldn't add P to the water) I suggest doing one
> of the following:
>
> 1) pot the plant in a mineral soil such as garden soil covered with
> gravel
>
> 2) put a Jobe's plant stick broken into pieces around the roots of the
> plant
>
> 3) make some clay balls with osmocote slow release fertilizer and put
> them around the plant roots.
>
> Steve
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 01:23:52 -0800
> From: Stephen Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>
> Subject: Re: Planted discus spawning tank
>
> Ed Hengel asked about a heavily planted, 33 gal tank with a pair of
> discus that enjoy spawning there. In order to save the eggs and fry all
> other tank inhabitants are removed. This worked but now there is a
> persistent bright green, filament algae.
>
> You could set up a new breeding aquarium along similar lines where you
> either a) eliminate the filament algae by the "Krombholz bleach
> treatment" or b) put the tank where the algae, plants and Discus can all
> grow happily together. Thread algae and green water algae are just fine
> for fry. In fact green water is very good for fry.
> This may not be to your liking so I can only suggest another course of
> action. I think the best green thread algae eaters are shrimps but these
> may be killed by the discus parents. You can also try reducing the
> dosage of chelated iron to your water preferably while you temporarily
> have algae eaters in the tank to consume it.
>
> You can supplement the substrate iron for your plants by using a
> substrate designed to provide iron but this again requires major work. A
> substrate requires two components to provide a steady supply of iron:
> iron (preferably from soil or the like) and organic material (preferably
> peat in a layer mixed at about 5%). Peat has other effects however...
>
> Steve
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 01:25:24 -0800 (PST)
> From: larry at creative_net (Larry Frank)
> Subject: PMDD /calcium
>
> I've noticed that in the formulation for PMDD there is no calcium compound
> included. The water is very soft where I live, and I am wondering if I have
> a shortage of calcium. What is an optimal level of calcium in ppm in the
> water column? Also are there specific signs for calcium deficiency?
>
> Thanks
> Larry
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 02:51:13 -0800 (PST)
> From: "M. Pearlscott" <pearlsco at u_washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Nutrient Deficiency/Ghost Shrimp
>
> Andy,
>
> Those holes that are formed in the leaves (the process is called necrosis)
> are due to many different kinds of deficiencies. Could be caused by a
> lack of K, Ca, Mn, B, Cu, or Mo. Are other symptoms such as leaf
> deformity, discoloration, etc.
>
> ________
> About Ghost shrimp...
>
> Yes, those clear little shrimp you get 5 for a dollar for are the famed
> ones used by Amano. He also uses a couple other species as well.
>
> Some pet stores have wised up, and bumped the price on them. You still
> can find them as feeders though, as Cichlids seem to like them.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mark
> - ------
> pearlsco at u_washington.com
> The more people I meet, the more I like my plants...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:00:25 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Curtis Hoganson" <hoganson at pilot_msu.edu>
> Subject: Re: biweekly water changes
>
> Karen Randall wrote:
> > Do not change water during the first month after set up. (assuming that you
> > ahven't done something to bring on an algae problem) Thereafter, water
> > changes should be at least 25% bi-weekly.
>
> My dictionary (a bit old, admittedly) defines biweekly as
> 1. occurring every two weeks, and 2. occurring twice a week.
>
> Not a very precise word apparently.
> - --
> Curtis Hoganson Dept. of Chemistry, Michigan State University
> East Lansing, MI 48824 517-355-9715 ext 260
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 10:15:09 -0700 (MST)
> From: George Booth <booth at hpmtlgb1_lvld.hp.com>
> Subject: Re: SAE in Denver
>
> >Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 21:17:23 -0700
> >From: Andy Galassi <agalassi at onpoint_com
> >
> >Does anyone know stores that have SEA in Denver, Colorado.
>
> AFAIK, no one stocks them on a regular basis. Call around and ask for "Siamese
> Flying Foxes". If they say yes, identify them as true SAE before you buy.
>
> George Booth in Ft. Collins, Colorado (booth at fii_com)
> Need Info? http://www.frii.com/~booth/AquaticConcepts.htm
> >> New Updates: 11/29/97 <<
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 12:26:45 -0500
> From: krandall at world_std.com
> Subject: Was nutrient limitation, now conversational kagaroo
>
> Subject: Re: Nutrient limitation
>
> >I've found that cyanobacteria do contribute organic nitrogen to the system.
> >
> >The process involves the cyanobacteria rapidly consuming nutrients until
> >they become nutrient limited in some way other than nitrogen. At this
> >point, they begin to die off and decay, contributing their nutrients back
> >to the system.
>
> Any time you let any organic material decay within the system it will
> release nutrients back into the system. An important part of algae
> management is manual removal of as much algae and deteriorating plant
> material as possible.
>
> It seems to me that we've come a long way from my initial statement that it
> was possible to maintain nitrogen poor water and still provide an adequate
> amount of nitrogen to the plants via the substrate. I feel like we're
> playing that "telephone" kids game!<g>
>
> Karen Randall
> Aquatic Gardeners Association
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 11:12:20 -0700
> From: Richard Wortley <hextek at flash_net>
> Subject: Plexiglass Construction Methods
>
> - --------------9434EBFB3DCDBC36BB8CFB58
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> A few years ago I helped build two 400 gallon show tanks for a local
> fish store. We purchased the Plexiglas from a local plastics supply
> company along with the solvent. The secret to bending the material is
> to use an industrial style heat gun. Using an oven can warp the sheet
> of plexi and ruin it in short order.
>
> Our first step was to buy the material pre-cut because of the smooth
> edge provided. If you want, you can buy a saber saw blade from the
> plastics company designed specifically to cut the plastic. Practice
> cuts are essential so as not to chip or crack the plexi for the final
> product. I think there may be a special router tool that can be used to
> easily clean up ragged saw cut, just remember to oversize the saw cuts
> so you don't run short on material. Peel off the protective paper from
> both sides of the area you wish to bend and clamp to a table,
> overhanging the section to be bent. Apply heat gun hot air to within an
> inch or two of the surface along proposed bend line. When the plexi
> begins to get hot, check for flexibility. Use a pipe or tube of the
> appropriate radius as a guide to bend the plexi around to form a
> corner. (To be very precise, you can make a hinged fixture around the
> pipe to hold and bend the plexi as we did.) It is important not to
> soften the plexi too much, this maximizes your ability to control the
> bending process. (It would be a good idea to buy some scrap plexi and
> practice before doing the real thing.) Use a carpenters square to
> verify a 90 degree bend at the top and bottom of the of the corner.
>
> Always remember, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!
> - --
>
> _
> _ / \ _
> / \ _ / \
> \ _ / \ _ / Richard Wortley {Tucson, AZ}
> / \ _ / \ hextek at flash_net
> \ _ / \ _ /
> \ _ /
>
> - --------------9434EBFB3DCDBC36BB8CFB58
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> <HTML>
> A few years ago I helped build two 400 gallon show tanks for a local fish
> store. We purchased the Plexiglas from a local plastics supply company
> along with the solvent. The secret to bending the material is to
> use an industrial style heat gun. Using an oven can warp the sheet
> of plexi and ruin it in short order.
>
> <P>Our first step was to buy the material pre-cut because of the smooth
> edge provided. If you want, you can buy a saber saw blade from
> the plastics company designed specifically to cut the plastic. Practice
> cuts are essential so as not to chip or crack the plexi for the final product.
> I think there may be a special router tool that can be used to easily clean
> up ragged saw cut, just remember to oversize the saw cuts so you don't
> run short on material. Peel off the protective paper from both sides
> of the area you wish to bend and clamp to a table, overhanging the section
> to be bent. Apply heat gun hot air to within an inch or two of the
> surface along proposed bend line. When the plexi begins to get hot,
> check for flexibility. Use a pipe or tube of the appropriate radius
> as a guide to bend the plexi around to form a corner. (To be very
> precise, you can make a hinged fixture around the pipe to hold and bend
> the plexi as we did.) It is important not to soften the plexi too
> much, this maximizes your ability to control the bending process.
> (It would be a good idea to buy some scrap plexi and practice before doing
> the real thing.) Use a carpenters square to verify a 90 degree
> bend at the top and bottom of the of the corner.
>
> <P>Always remember, <B><I>MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!</I></B>
> <BR>--
>
> <P>
> <BR> _
> <BR> _ / \ _
> <BR> / \ _ / \
> <BR> \ _ / \ _ / Richard Wortley
> {Tucson, AZ}
> <BR> / \ _ / \ hextek at flash_net
> <BR> \ _ / \ _ /
> <BR> \ _ /
> <BR> </HTML>
>
> - --------------9434EBFB3DCDBC36BB8CFB58--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 11 Dec 1997 11:34:48 -0700 (MST)
> From: Michael D Nielsen <mnielsen at U_Arizona.EDU>
> Subject: Re: Ghost SHrimp ID
>
> I have also gotten these same shrimp at 8 for $1 and while they do eat my
> algae very well, they always die after a few weeks in my tanks, no matter
> which tank they are in. No one picks on them and they really clean up on
> the algae. I was wondering if very low KH and GH might be causing
> problems with their exoskeleton formation?
>
> Any ideas?
>
> whomareyou?whomareyou?whomareyou?whomareyou
> h ?
> o THE OPTIMIST BELIEVES WE LIVE IN w
> m THE BEST OF ALL WORLDS; THE PESSIMIST h
> a FEARS THIS IS SO o
> r m
> e Mike Nielsen a
> y Department of Geography r
> o Harvill Bldg Box #2 e
> u Tucson, AZ 85721 y
> ? mnielsen at u_arizona.edu o
> w u
> homareyou?whomareyou?whomareyou?whomareyou?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #1130
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