[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
> Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 19:40:26 -0400
> From: "Jeff K" <jeff1908 at net-gate_com>
> Subject: CO2 Valves
> I have seen references to ARO valves F01, Grainger # 6ZC07. Has anyone
> tried these successfully? Grainger does list them as having a fully closed
> position, but also states they are thermoplastic with zinc plated steel
> pipe inserts. I thought the all brass and stainless steel of the Parker was
> superior. I'd appreciate your suggestions. Frankly, I'm trying to avoid the
> higher cost of the Nupro valves commonly mentioned. I'll need two to supply
> two tanks.
Jeff, I have both the NuPro and the ARO valves. The ARO valve that I
have is a model NO1, not FO1, however. Both valves work great. The ARO
valve does have a plastic exterior while the NuPro is made of metal.
With that said, the ARO NO1 seems to work every bit as well, if not
better, than its' more expensive counterpart. I think that I paid $38
for the NuPro and $16 for the ARO valve. Both were a pain to find, but
if I need another one, I will probably buy the ARO NO1 just because of
the price difference.
Someone else asked a while back, if a solenoid could be used after the
needle valve. The answer is yes, but the solenoid generates a surprising
amount of heat. Enough heat that it seems to affect the sensitive
settings on needle valves. When the solenoid gets hot, more CO2 is
allowed to bubble into the tank. I think that this would be a simple
problem to correct. Just move the solenoid further from your needle
valve, but it's something you should remember.
Happy Gardening, Pat