[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]


Sparrow wrote:

> To get revenge, I gave it a thorough nuking in the microwave and put
> it back in the tank where it was munched upon with relish.

What kind of relish?   Sorry couldn't resist. ;)

Dan Cole, Mail Order Pet Supplies
Subscribe to our FREE Tropical Fish Hobbyist Newsletter!
Mailto:mops-news at databack_com and place the word "subscribe" 
in the body of your message or visit us at http://www.mops.on.ca

-- BEGIN included message

Aquatic Plants Digest      Sunday, June 22 1997      Volume 02 : Number 788

In this issue:

	Myco. - Increasing treatment duration
	redox potential
	re:  Filterless Plant Tanks
	Silent Filter for 20G tank
	Filterless Plant Tanks
	re: shorter Vals
	Anti-biotics Was: After medication, then what? (APD 778)

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.


Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 12:21:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Petemohan at aol_com
Subject: Myco. - Increasing treatment duration

     I've been reading with interest all of the good information posted on
Mycobacterium infections.  I was faced with a myco problem in a population of
rare fish a few years ago.  I used a combination on Rifampin and Doxycyline
for an EXTENDED period (6 months) and the fish have been asymptomatic (notice
I don't say cured) ever since.  I plan to send out some culls for biopsy soon
to see if they are free form Myco.  The extended treatment appeared safe, in
that the fish are still reproducing, and the few deformities seen in fry
during the treatment have not reoccured since it's completion.  I fed the
drugs as a component of a gelatinized diet so I could contol dosage.  This is
obviously a last ditch resort and was worth the expense for this particular
group of fish.
     Mycobacterium marinum is also called "fish handlers disease".  It was a
common problem among workers at fish processing plants, and I am aware of a
few cases that resulted from the handling and chopping of seafood products.
 If you feed such items to your critters, its not a bad idea to wear those
disposable latex gloves while you chop...especially if you have cuts on your
hands.  Processed flake foods are not  a problem, as they contain dry, heated
 fish meals.

Pete Mohan 


Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 00:19:34 -0500
From: Ed Hengel <hengel at computer_net>
Subject: redox potential

Can anyone please explain what redox potential is.




Date: 22 Jun 97 12:43:54 EDT
From: Doug Valverde <75051.160 at CompuServe_COM>
Subject: re:  Filterless Plant Tanks

Jamie and everybody else,

I wrote the article but have not yet seen the magazine so I have no idea if
editing of any kind took place.  But maybe I can at least explain what I was
attempting to say.

First I almost, but not quite, have to apologize for the article.  It did not
start out as an article but as response to a question I was asked.  Thanks to
some kindness of the part of the person I sent it to it ended up in FAMA.

I tend to be the type person who questions almost everything.  Just my nature I
guess.  We all hear that we MUST keep the temps in our tanks stable as fish
cannot handle rapid changes of temperature, especially temperature drops.  Odd
isn't it that fish in real life go through thermoclines in natural bodies of
water in which they go through several degrees change, in just a few seconds.
Equally odd is the temperature of small streams and small ponds can change
radically during heavy rain storms.  According to a lot of people this cannot
happen which makes me then assume that everyfish in the world is dead and just
don't know it yet. <g>

A lot of what should and/or needs to be done to a tank depends on what the tank
owner wants.  On larger tanks I have to side with George in saying sumps are
fantastic.  On my biggest tank I have one, just with almost all biomedia
removed, but still I have some.  This tank has one little neon swimming around
in 120 gallons.  But I love the sump for the ability to use it as a reaction
chamber chemical additions, a place to add CO2, a place to keep heaters, and boy
does it make my water change routine.  In the tank the article was on, it is a
45 gallon tank I had custom made for me to get dimensions I wanted.  It is from
my point of view overcrowded.  Right now I have no clue how many fish are in it.
It has live bearers and I wasn't feeding it at all so needless to say the fry
became dinner.  But my wife stepped in and insisted I protect the innocent
babies so I started feeding the tank, and you can imagine what happened then.
<g>  Tank has three light strips, each having two 24" lamps or a total of 120
watts.  But the lights are staggered off and on so full wattage is only achieved
for about 6 hours.  Rest of the time there is either 40 or 80 watts depending on
which lights I have on.  Tank is heavily planted with very little substrate area
left to add anything at all.  No stem plants at all.  Substrate is a mixture of
sand, peat, gravel, top soil, and even a little laterite tossed in for good
measure.  The only supplements it gets at all are the occasional plant tablet
added to the substrate.  Yes there is a powerhead which does have a prefilter.
The powerhead had the flow directed across the substrate to help keep solids and
debris in the water column until the prefilter or water changes catch it.  And
there is a heater in there.  Nothing else.  I can't say it is pretty, long story
but it was planted quickly to save plants when I moved so there is little rhyme
nor reason to the planting.  But the plants are healthy and growing well.  And
the fish are healthy and growing well even though IMO I have too many fish in

My real point in writing the article was simply to make everyone realize that
there are no hard and fast rules.  What each individual aquarist wants and needs
is dictated by their own personality.  I've pruned the five gallons a week worth
or plants, not my style.  I want a tank that allows for me to grow plants I
choose and keeps those plants healthy, but I do not want a tank that works me to
death.  That is the main reason I have no stem plants as the dang things grow to
fast for my taste.  Whether you need or want a filter depends on a number of
variables, fish load, water quality, light intensity, substrate type and so on.
But I do think it is silly for us to spend money on equipment that we do not
need, and that can be counter productive.  That means that each planted tank
aquarist, or aquatic gardener which to me is more accurate in my case, should
know basic information about plants and fish so that they can make informed
decisions.  What is right for George may or may not be right for me, what is
right for me may not be what is right for you, and so on.  (Sorry for using you
as an example George, hope you don't mind.)

Whether a filter is for you, or filterless is for you, is really up to you to
determine based upon what you want.  It can work, either that or I have some
really stupid fish that died over a year ago, and it is an option.  Up to you to
chose which option is best for you.

However I would never even try running without a filter in a heavily fish
populated tank or a lightly planted tank.

Sorry for the long reply.



Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 13:46:26 -0400
From: "Farzan S." <farzan at ibm_net>
Subject: Silent Filter for 20G tank

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC7F12.B26F2AA0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I decided to set up a 20 gallon long (30") tank to allow me to experiment 
with a few techniques (I can't imagine tearing down the big tank due to a 
"mistake").  I need recommendations for a very quiet filter for it, since 
I'm placing it in my bedroom and want it to make as little noise as 
possible.  Although I love their simplicity, I don't want a 
hang-on-the-back (i.e. Aquaclear) type since I'd like to place it as close 
to the wall as possible. The plan is to have a planted tank with a moderate 
fish load.

In going through one of my catalogs, I came across a "System 2 Overhead 
Wet-Dry" by Aquarium Products. It seems rather interesting in that it seems 
to fit over the rim of the aquarium. Has anyone ever tried it?

In the external cannisters, theFluval 103 or the 203 seem ideal...is the 
motor on these as quiet as the motor of an external aquaclear? Would the 
103 be sufficient, or should I get the 203?

The last option that I can think of is an internal filter. Even though it's 
going to take up some space inside the tank, it would make the tank a self 
contained unit. Any recommendations between the internals?


- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Farzan S.                                  farzan[@]ibm.net
- -------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE:To reply you must delete the brackets around the "[@]"
This is to discourage automated junk email generators.Thanks!- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC7F12.B26F2AA0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64


- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BC7F12.B26F2AA0--


Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 10:59:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: esarchy at wsunix_wsu.edu
Subject: Filterless Plant Tanks

	Just had to add my own two cents to this one. I too have had very
good luck with filterless plant tanks. In fact, one of my favorite tanks
(and a $100.00 winner in a local planted tank contest) uses no filtration.
I will not go over how plants are filters since this has already been
covered, but I do want to mention which fishes are appropriate for this
type of set up.
	This filterless tank is a 20 High. It is heavily (as in Amano
heavily) planted. Light is 3 X 20 watts gro-lux lights. CO2 is DIY. The
sole residents are four Pelteobagrus ornatus. They are a small (2.5cm or
1") glass cat from SE Asia. I am always amazed at how high people stock
their tanks. Filterless plant tanks need to be very conservativly
stocked. They also need to be stocked with fishes that do not require
elevated levels of O2 or constant water movement. Using fishes that can
take atmospheric air is also a good idea (e.g. Corydoras, Bettas,
gouramis, etc) since they will be able to survive, and prosper, in lower
than normal O2 levels.
	Filterless plant tanks do work and can be very beautiful. I just
wanted to point out, however, that not all aquarium fishes are suitable
for this type of tank.

I decided to stop drinking with creeps.
I decided to drink only with friends.
I've lost 30 pounds.
		- Ernest Hemingway


Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 13:26:19 -0500
From: Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>
Subject: re: shorter Vals


Return-Path: <spug at intlog_demon.co.uk>
From: Steve Parry <spug at intlog_demon.co.uk>
To: Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 13:48:49 GMT
Organization: Pisces

>Subject: Re: Shorter Vallisneria

>>Mark was inquiring....
>>Does anyone have some Val. that stays 18" or under?  Willing to do some
>>trading or purchasing.  If you just know the species, let me know and I'll
>>find a source myself.  All the Val. I know of is too tall.

>I wish I knew of some. A while back I asked people on this list if they
>knew the scientific name of something labeled "Crystal Val." It began
>as a straight skinny twelve inch plant in the pet shop. It spread rapidly
>and now the darn things are growing larger weekly and have now attained
>four feet in length. I doubt that they are V. gigantea which I have owned
>and which grew even larger and much thicker.

>Dave Whittaker
>ac554 at FreeNet_Carleton.ca

Me three, Has anyone had this prob:

Val (don't know which, but leaves up to four feet long, I thought it
was V. gigantea until saw the above post) grows at an astonishing rate
until, I guess, it uses up all available supplies of a particular
nutrient. It then stops growing and dies back. The tank, now limited
in "???" is then completely taken over by the really tough hair algae,
the type which, if you try to pull it off of a rock, ie, will bring
the rock with it.

Can anyone shed any light on the "dynamics" of this situation. 
Any fish eat this stuff? Also, has anyone found use for the algae? It
is so strong, and a such nice colour I thought of knitting a jumper
out of it.

To get revenge, I gave it a thorough nuking in the microwave and put
it back in the tank where it was munched upon with relish.
XXXXXXXXXX-------Sparrow (Spug) in London UK.--------XXXXXXXXXXXXX


Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 13:27:46 -0500
From: Steve Parry <spug at intlog_demon.co.uk> (by way of Cynthia S Powers <cyn at metronet_com>)
Subject: Anti-biotics Was: After medication, then what? (APD 778)

>Donald Rudee <donald.h.rudee at boeing_com> wrote: <<<<<Subject: After
>medication, then what? (...)
>The fish in my plant tank were treated with Erythromycin and Maracin II 
>for an outbreak of T.B. (supposedly).  About 3 days into the 5 day 
>treatment I am seeing some algae on the plants. >>>>>>

>The medications you mentioned are quite ineffective for TB treatment in
>ornamental aquaria, but they are very fast and powerful filter killers.
>The algae you see are probably due to a decreased biological filtration.
>Watch for ammonia levels now.

Dionigi, are you a microbiologist or expert on this subj? I would like
to know what "happens" to anti-biotics in a closed system like an
aquarium. If, for instance no carbon is in the filter (does carbon
remove it anyway?) and only small water changes are done, does the
anti-biotic remain in the system, and does it remain "active"
What ARE anti-biotics anyway? Are they "active"? Alive? How do they
work? Do they all work in the same way?

>In one of my aquaria I have been keeping "sunset" Hygrophila for several
>months now, but I can't get the plant to branch. Instead I get long
>stems (it's a 180 gal. tank) that tend to loose the lower leaves.  The
>H. polysperma on the contrary branches extensively. I would like to know
>if this hygrophila variety normally does not branch too much, or if the
>most likely explanation is that the conditions are not right.

In my limited experience, H. polysperma sunset LOVES light. it strives
to get to the surface, and then starts getting bushier and taking on
the red colour. If your tank is very deep, this would explain the
legginess. Have you tried pinching out the growing shoot?

XXXXXXXXXX-------Sparrow (Spug) in London UK.--------XXXXXXXXXXXXX


End of Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #788

To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
    unsubscribe aquatic-plants
in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com".  Archives are
available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.

-- END included message