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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #660

I would like to know how do you get rid of suspended alage that is inside
of the tanks and the best way to keep your ph and amonia stabalized inside
of the tanks.

----------
> 
> 
> Aquatic Plants Digest      Sunday, April 20 1997      Volume 02 : Number
660
> 
> 
> 
> In this issue:
> 
> 	Re: Cause of cyanobacteria
> 	Re: CO2 Kit
> 	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #659
> 	Trimming Plants
> 	Re: Flocculating agents for cloudiness
> 
> See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 06:16:58 -0400 (EDT)
> From: ac554 at freenet_carleton.ca (David Whittaker)
> Subject: Re: Cause of cyanobacteria
> 
> A few months ago I stated in this digest my belief that
> blue-green algae did poorly in highly oxygenated water.
> However, I couldn't explain the seeming contradiction
> of these same bacteria growing profusely in the return
> water of power filters such as the AquaClears.
> 
> Well, there is no contradiction. The return flow, although
> moving quickly and with a large surface area exposed to
> the air, is depleted of oxygen due to the activity of the
> nitrosomos and nitrobacter and the biological filtration
> which has just occurred. In this environment, in addition
> to water low in oxygen, the cyanobacteria also enjoy a
> high level of nutrients and carbon dioxide (from the
> bacteria), and unobstructed constant exposure to light.
> Oxygenation occurs not in the return flow, but only as
> the surface waters of the tank are churned and replaced.
> 
> This theory would explain several common observations.
> One is that cyanobacteria first show up in crevices,
> between the gravel and the glass, on dead or slow-growing
> leaves, or in the bottom layers of the tank. What all
> of these places have in common are lower than average
> oxygen levels. Fast growing plants not only consume
> phosphate and other nutrients, they also produce lots
> of oxygen to be diffused at the leaf surface. They are
> the last to be covered by the algae.
> 
> If the  carbon dioxide in my tank falls causing slower
> plant growth, the cyanobacteria start to creep back.
> If one of my power heads stops, the result is the same.
> I've also noticed that outbreaks of blue-green algae
> are more frequent in summer when temperatures are apt
> to rise reducing the amount of dissolved oxygen.
> 
> It's fairly easy to elicit blue-green algae simply by
> creating a dead, lighted area in a corner of an other-
> wise healthy, heavily planted tank. I recently did this
> by placing a glass jar against one far corner of my
> aquarium. Within a week or so the algae had started
> to migrate to the surfaces which encompassed the dead
> space between the jar and the aquarium glass.
> 
> Anyway, I don't believe the "cyanobacteria grows on
> phosphate-laden detritus at the bottom of the tank"
> theory. I have yet to hear a satisfactory explanation
> of their appearance and sometimes persistence in
> aquaria.
> 
> Maybe someone would like to experiment with hydrogen
> peroxide over a five day period. I bet that it would
> work in the short term.
> 
> - --
> Dave Whittaker
> ac554 at FreeNet_Carleton.ca
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 08:19:49 +0000
> From: "Jim Spencer" <jrs at cyber-quest_com>
> Subject: Re: CO2 Kit
> 
>  Chris Simmons wrote
> 
> > I have a question for all you CO2 buffs out there!  I am just starting
to
> > really get into aquarium plants and so far i have been adding CO2 via
yeast
> > method.  I am looking to get a " more sophisticated" CO2 setup.  While
I was
> > at the local fish store today, i noticed they got in a Tetra CO2
complete
> > system for aquariums up to 55 gal. (thats what it said on the box). The
> > selling price for the system is right around $160. US (not bad..huh?)! 
Well
> > anyway I was wondering if any of you people out there have heard
anything on
> > this system?  I would apreciate ANY and ALL feed back on this system
good or
> > bad!  Thanks for the help!
> 
> I think you will find a lot better deal a your local welding supply 
> shop.  I bought a 5lb tank filled with CO2  and a regulator for $142 
> including the tax. I live in a small town and didn't have many 
> dealers to choose from.  In a larger town you may be able to shop 
> around for a better deal.  I assume because you have a DIY system 
> going now you have some sort of reactor. The only other thing you 
> will need is a needle valve which you can get for about $10. You also 
> might want to consider http://marine-monsters.com .  They offer a 
> system  (except for the tank) including a solenoid valve for $175.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 05:20:15 -0700
> From: Jeanne Curtright <freshwaterff at earthlink_net>
> Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #659
> 
> Aquatic Plants Digest wrote:
> > 
> > Aquatic Plants Digest      Sunday, April 20 1997      Volume 02 :
Number 659
> > 
> > In this issue:
> > 
> >         CO2 kit
> >         looking for plants
> >         Re:Spirulina
> >         Re: Culturing Daphnia
> >         Re: spamming
> > 
> > See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
> > Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 19:19:47 -0400 (EDT)
> > From: Griff1324 at aol_com
> > Subject: CO2 kit
> > 
> > I have a question for all you CO2 buffs out there!  I am just starting
to
> > really get into aquarium plants and so far i have been adding CO2 via
yeast
> > method.  I am looking to get a " more sophisticated" CO2 setup.  While
I was
> > at the local fish store today, i noticed they got in a Tetra CO2
complete
> > system for aquariums up to 55 gal. (thats what it said on the box). The
> > selling price for the system is right around $160. US (not bad..huh?)! 
Well
> > anyway I was wondering if any of you people out there have heard
anything on
> > this system?  I would apreciate ANY and ALL feed back on this system
good or
> > bad!  Thanks for the help!
> > 
> > Chris Simmons
> > Erie, PA
> > aka...Griff1324 at aol_com
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 19:31:37 -0400 (EDT)
> > From: Griff1324 at aol_com
> > Subject: looking for plants
> > 
> > I am just starting to turn my 55 gal tank into a "underwater garden" but
> > buying the plants from a local pet shop is very expensive (and i'm kinda
> > short on funds)!  So i thought it wouldn't hurt to post this on here
and see
> > if anyone has ANY kind of plants that they would be interested in
donating
> to
> > me!  I will pay the shipping for the plants!
> > Please e-mail me at Griff1324 at aol_com if you have some plants that you
would
> > like to give up!
> > 
> > thanx
> > Chris Simmons
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 18:42:42 -0500
> > From: krombhol at felix_teclink.net (Paul Krombholz)
> > Subject: Re:Spirulina
> > 
> > David Webb wrote:
> > 
> > >>Anyways, one thing I did that the list might be interested in is I set
> > >>up a corner box filter, but not having any live biomedia to fill it
> > >>with, I stuffed it full of live spirulina growing in my daphnia tank.
> > >
> > >>The quarantine tank is next to my daphnia tank and both get twin-tube
> > >>24hx7d lighting, so I suspect the spirulina in the box filter will do
> > >>quite well as a photosynthetic, nutrient-removing filter media.
> > >
> > >>Comments?
> > 
> > I thought that Spirulina was a single-celled bluegreen alga.  David, are
> > you sure that Spirulina is what you stuffed in your in your filter box?
> > >From what you said, it sounds like you put some kind of filamentous
alga
> > in.  Could it have been Spirogyra?
> > 
> > Paul Krombholz                  Tougaloo College, Tougaloo, MS  39174
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 18:57:26 -0500
> > From: krombhol at felix_teclink.net (Paul Krombholz)
> > Subject: Re: Culturing Daphnia
> > 
> > >Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 00:53:43 GMT
> > Sparrow <spug at intlog_demon.co.uk> wrote, Apr 19:
> > 
> > >Tell us more, please, about the cultivation of spirulina, I am having
no
> > >>success with daphnia culturing..... Could this be the answer?
> > >
> > 
> > Daphnia culturing shouldn't be hard.  They multiply on the algae in
green
> > water.  To get green water just keep some fish with no filtration in a
well
> > lit tank that has few or no plants.  When the water becomes green,
transfer
> > portions of it to your Daphnia tank.
> > 
> > Paul Krombholz                  Tougaloo College, Tougaloo, MS  39174
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Date: Sat, 19 Apr 1997 20:41:15 -0500
> > From: wursterb at intrepid_net (Bob Wurster)
> > Subject: Re: spamming
> > 
> > George Booth wrote:
> > >Have people noticed an increase in junk e-mail recently?  I'm
> > >wondering if someone is pulling addresses from the APD for the purpose
> > >of spamming.  I haven't posted much in the news groups recently...
> > >
> > >George
> > 
> > I opened a new account with a local ISP a few months back, and have yet
to
> > receive a single piece of spam e-mail, so I doubt that George's problem
is
> > a result of being on the APD mailing list. I have kept my old AOL
account
> > for accessing Usenet, and get -TONS- of junk there, even though I just
lurk
> > on the newsgroups. I can't remember the last time I posted. I would be
> > interested in hearing off-list about strategies for avoiding or
retaliating
> > against the spam lists. Is it possible?
> > 
> > One idea I have had for a political solution to the problem is for all
> > spam-haters to start forwarding their unwanted mail to their congressmen
> > and senators, including a note asking for legislative action. I, for
one,
> > am really sick of wading through all of that crap. It seems ridiculous
that
> > I can't make full use of my new account for fear of an avalanche of
> > messages from a bunch of weasels. Sorry to be off-topic, but this
subject
> > really touches a nerve.
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > End of Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #659
> > ************************************
> > 
> > To unsubscribe to aquatic-plants, send the command:
> >     unsubscribe aquatic-plants
> > in the body of a message to "Majordomo at ActWin_com".  Archives are
> > available on the web at http://www.actwin.com/fish/aquatic-plants
> > or via FTP to ftp.actwin.com in /pub/aquaria/aquatic-plants.
> Daphnia cultures can be kept alive by adding small amounts of Blood &
> Bone meal to the water every week or so.  I had a culture running for
> years this way.  Every time I harvested, I fed.
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 08:36:02 -0700
> From: "Jim Burrows" <jburrows at ix_netcom.com>
> Subject: Trimming Plants
> 
> > The stem plants will always need to be trimmed, that's just the way they
> > grow.  The best way to trim them is to cut back the stems just above a
> > branch 1/3 -1/2 of the way to the top.  Don't cut too many at once, or
> your
> > plant will look like is got a crew-cut!  The plant should branch and
> become
> > fuller with this type of trimming.
> 
> Currently I'm deep into the learning-curve on trimming different types of
> plants and seem to be getting better at it. I've killed off a few by
> trimming to much in the early days. I've found that it looks better (at
> least in my tank) to trim a little lower in the front of the bunch and
trim
> a bit higher in the back. I'm also "sculpting" a stem of my Mexican Oak
> with an old terestrial (sp) trick of topping after each second node to get
> a bush. Since it grows so fast, the resuts are quicker to see. So far, it
> seems a little stunted, but has bigger leaves and is not as "leggy" as
it's
> taller partners. I haven't experimented with my other stem plants yet so I
> dont know if clipping that often would be too stressfull on the plants.
> 
> >  If you must limit the growth of big
> > rosette plants (like Echinodorus) you might want to try decreasing the
> > amount of light and CO2 available to the plants.   If your lighting
> > arrangement precludes the possibility of removing a bulb, you can reduce
> > the photoperiod instead.
> 
> I tried limiting the photoperiod but got a large-scale attack of red algae
> (maybe I went too far, but...). May or may not have a coincidence, but
> since I am at a happy medium with algae growth, I'd rather not change the
> tank. I'm willing (and eager) to do the work. I think it's far better to
> have to trim taller and/or larger plants than having to buy replacements
> for dead plants. :)
> 
> I DID have a problem with my Amazon Sword (Echinodurus paniculatus) always
> wanting to flatten out but a few stem plants near it has solved that one.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim
> 
> > Karen Randall
> > Aquatic Gardeners Association
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 20 Apr 1997 12:43:35 -0400
> From: "amc2" <amc2 at ix_netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: Flocculating agents for cloudiness
> 
> Date: Wed, 16 Apr 97 17:27:59 PST8
> From: spushak at CCGATE_HAC.COM
> Subject: flocculating agents for cloudiness
> 
>      Can anyone suggest some agents which could be used to flocculate
(form
> 
>      into clumps) fine suspensions of clay in aquarium water?
>      
> "Crystal-Clear" from Aquarium Products is available in Canada and will do
> the job for you!
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Merrill <amc2 at ix_netcom.com>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Aquatic Plants Digest V2 #660
> ************************************
> 
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