Some random thoughts: (the only kind I have)
Should PMDD's be kept in the dark? Does light break down the chelated
What is everyone's (who checks it) phosphate levels. I'd prefer to know
the readings of only healthy, basically algae-free tanks. Please mention
if PMDD's are used or not.
Last week I was bleaching some hydrocotyle leucocephala. (I didn't need
to, but I was moving it to a different tank and I wanted to be careful)
The phone rang and my 3 minute bleach dip turned into a 9 minute dip. It
shows some damage, but I think that it will eventually overcome my best
effort to kill it. Moral of story: be very careful with the bleach. Set
some type of alarm or timer to remind you when your 3 minutes are up.
Our local Grainger store recently had a lighting sale. I was able to
pick up an instart start, electronic ballast that runs two 32 watt t-8s
for 19.50 . I wanted to see what all of the fuss about the t-8 s was, so
I bought two 4100K t-8 s. (They were temporarily out of the 5000k) The
CRI is something like 82.
First, wiring the ballast up is a bit tricky. (some assembly
Once this was overcome, I flipped the switch and.....ho. hum, it worked.
Not exactly metal halide. If you're expecting a dramatic difference from
t-12 s, you might see it on your utility bill, but not in actual light
The key seems to be lumens per watt. But, remember, you are actually
starting out with lower wattage.
The smaller size of the t-8 would make it easier to cram more of
them under a canopy though, and the price of a 4 bulb ballast is about
the same as a 2. So.......