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Teflon tape & Halogen lights
> From: steveb at bga_com (Steve Benz)
> Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 12:23:44 -0500
...
>
> Trouble is, the fittings on the regulator don't just screw right into
> the needle valve. Usually (I think), regulators come with an output
> adapter for welding equipment.
Your experience may vary depending on the regulator. Some I have seen
with non-removable small hose barbs (which can be hooked directly to the
needle valve with heavy vinyl tubing), some with hose barbs that can be
removed (leaving you with threaded 1/4" NPT that can be adapted).
Likewise, one of the needle valves I've used came with a T-barb, and
another came with 1/16" Swagelok. I had no problems finding adapters,
some of them even at plumbing supply shops.
> A word about connections: First, don't use "Teflon Tape" for CO2
> connections.
Did your connection say why? I've used Teflon tape without trouble for
many years.
> From: John Lobingier <jlob at wpa_net>
> Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 19:24:40 GMT
> Subject: Halogen Torchier Lamp For Plants?
>
> I was talking to a person on the net and they told me that they use a
> halogen torchier lamp with adjustable brightness to light their tank. They
> dismantled the lamp they bought, and then hung like a pendant light. I
> thought it may be a very good idea. Is it? Is halogen a effective light
> for plants? It would be very bright! A possible cheap substitute for metal
> haldide?
Uh, no. Imagine, if you will, 300 watts of incandescent bulbs hanging
over your tank. OK, imagine it just a teeny bit (but not much) more
efficient. That's halogen. MH is 2-4 times as efficient as Halogen. T-8
flourescents are 4-5 times as efficient.
Another way of looking at it: Your 300 watt halogen pendant is producing
the equivalent light output of a double-tube T-8 setup (which will
cost you around $30-$35 for bulbs, ballast, and miscellaneous mounting
hardware, and will quickly save you that much back in electricity).
- Erik
From a table (originally posted here, now in the Krib's lighting section):
conventional incandescent: 500PAR64, 6500 (initial) lumens, 500 watts,
13 lumens/watt
halogen: 50PAR30 (GE Halogen IR), 1000 lumens, 50 watts,
20 lumens/watt
fluorescent T12, GE Chroma 50, 1870 lumens, 40 watts,
46.75 lumens/watt (on a ballast that only draws 40 watts, heigh ho)
fluorescent T12, GE rare earth, 2960 lumens, 40 watts,
74 lumens/watt (but this depends on the ballast)
fluorescent T8, GE rare earth, electronic ballast (!), 2650 lumens, 27
watts,
98 lumens/watt
fluorescent compact F40/30BX/IS, electronic ballast, 2840 lumens, 30
watts,
95 lumens/watt
MH, E28 universal burning horizontally, 7100 lumens, 175 watts,
41 lumens/watt
MH, E28 universal burning VBU, 8300 lumens, 175 watts,
47 lumens/watt
MH, E28 horizontal [EP39 base], 11300 lumens, 175 watts,
65 lumens/watt
MH, E37 VBU, 31000 lumens, 400 watts,
78 lumens/watt
HPS, GE Deluxe Lucalox, 9135 lumens, 150 watts,
61 lumens/watt
HPS, GE White Lucalox, 4160 lumens, 95 watts,
44 lumens/watt
LPS, 19140 lumens, 135 watts,
142 lumens/watt