Teflon tape & Halogen lights

> From: steveb at bga_com (Steve Benz)
> Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 12:23:44 -0500
>   Trouble is, the fittings on the regulator don't just screw right into
> the needle valve.  Usually (I think), regulators come with an output
> adapter for welding equipment.  

Your experience may vary depending on the regulator.  Some I have seen
with non-removable small hose barbs (which can be hooked directly to the
needle valve with heavy vinyl tubing), some with hose barbs that can be
removed (leaving you with threaded 1/4"  NPT that can be adapted). 
Likewise, one of the needle valves I've used came with a T-barb, and
another came with 1/16"  Swagelok. I had no problems finding adapters,
some of them even at plumbing supply shops. 

>   A word about connections:  First, don't use "Teflon Tape" for CO2
> connections. 

Did your connection say why?  I've used Teflon tape without trouble for
many years.

> From: John Lobingier <jlob at wpa_net>
> Date: Wed, 8 May 1996 19:24:40 GMT
> Subject: Halogen Torchier Lamp For Plants?
> I was talking to a person on the net and they told me that they use a
> halogen torchier lamp with adjustable brightness to light their tank.  They
> dismantled the lamp they bought, and then hung like a pendant light.  I
> thought it may be a very good idea.  Is it?  Is halogen a effective light
> for plants?  It would be very bright!  A possible cheap substitute for metal
> haldide?   

Uh, no.  Imagine, if you will, 300 watts of incandescent bulbs hanging
over your tank.  OK, imagine it just a teeny bit (but not much) more
efficient.  That's halogen.  MH is 2-4 times as efficient as Halogen.  T-8
flourescents are 4-5 times as efficient.

Another way of looking at it: Your 300 watt halogen pendant is producing
the equivalent light output of a double-tube T-8 setup (which will
cost you around $30-$35 for bulbs, ballast, and miscellaneous mounting
hardware, and will quickly save you that much back in electricity).

     - Erik

From a table (originally posted here, now in the Krib's lighting section):

 conventional incandescent:  500PAR64, 6500 (initial) lumens, 500 watts,
    13 lumens/watt
  halogen:  50PAR30 (GE Halogen IR), 1000 lumens, 50 watts,
    20 lumens/watt
  fluorescent T12, GE Chroma 50, 1870 lumens, 40 watts,
    46.75 lumens/watt (on a ballast that only draws 40 watts, heigh ho)
  fluorescent T12, GE rare earth, 2960 lumens, 40 watts,
    74 lumens/watt (but this depends on the ballast)
  fluorescent T8, GE rare earth, electronic ballast (!), 2650 lumens, 27
    98 lumens/watt
  fluorescent compact F40/30BX/IS, electronic ballast, 2840 lumens, 30
    95 lumens/watt
  MH, E28 universal burning horizontally, 7100 lumens, 175 watts,
    41 lumens/watt
  MH, E28 universal burning VBU, 8300 lumens, 175 watts,
    47 lumens/watt
  MH, E28 horizontal [EP39 base], 11300 lumens, 175 watts,
    65 lumens/watt
  MH, E37 VBU, 31000 lumens, 400 watts,
    78 lumens/watt
  HPS, GE Deluxe Lucalox, 9135 lumens, 150 watts,
    61 lumens/watt
  HPS, GE White Lucalox, 4160 lumens, 95 watts,
    44 lumens/watt
  LPS, 19140 lumens, 135 watts,
    142 lumens/watt