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From: Aquatic-Plants-Owner at ActWin_com
To: Aquatic-Plants at ActWin_com
Subject: Aquatic Plants Digest V1 #287
Reply-To: Aquatic-Plants at ActWin_com
Errors-To: Aquatic-Plants-Owner at ActWin_com

Aquatic Plants Digest     Tuesday, 27 February 1996     Volume 01 : Number 287

In this issue:

	re: Taking pictures.
	Great Deal? Dupla CO2-set Delta for $55?
	Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V1 #285

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the
Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve back issues.


From: "David W. Webb" <dwebb at ti_com>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 13:04:46 -0800
Subject: re: Taking pictures.

>  From: Ghazanfar K Ghori <ghori at netcom_com>
>  Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 09:41:50 -0500 (EST)
>  Subject: Taking pictures.
>      How do you take pictures of your tank? I have a regular camera
>      and the few times Ive tried it the flash reflects off the tank
>      and I get a werid flashy tank picture instead of a good
>      planted tank one. I aint no good at taking pictures.
>      How?

There are two ways to take pictures of your tank.

1.  Remotely mount your flash in a place that it won't bounce back off of the
tank at the camera lens.  This can usually be done by mounting it above the
camera where the reflection angle from the flash off of the tank doesn't hit
the camera.  If you have the equipment, you can use this technique and multiple
simultaneous flashes mounted in different places to get your best pictures.

2.  Take your pictures where the camera is never perpendicular  to any of the
tank surfaces.  The camera can be directly in front of the tank, but just above
it, just to the side of it, just below, etc.  Your pictures will appear
slightly angled because they are.  This is the method I use and is good for
point-and-click type cameras.  The more angled your picture is (off to the side
or top), the less secondary reflection (from objects in the room) you will

David W. Webb in wet, cooling off Plano, TX.


From: Stephen.Pushak at saudan_HAC.COM
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 96 11:10:32 PST
Subject: Orchids

Dave Webb mentioned the idea of growing orchids. I wondered if any
of our paludarium folk have tried this? There is a tremendous range
of orchids with slightly varying temperature requirements. My mother-
in-law has a beautiful orchid garden in Mindanao. Orchids are quite
beautiful! High humidity and an air temperature of ~70 at night to 
~80 during the daytime are typical for Mindanao.

Vancouver Steve


From: BreedOFish at aol_com
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 14:17:57 -0500
Subject: Great Deal? Dupla CO2-set Delta for $55?

Well folks the subject says it all.
I have the chance to get the Dupla CO2-set Delta for $55, should I do it?  It
comes with a 12oz CO2 bottle, a pressure reducer, a diffusoir, and a little
CO2 test kit thingy.  I would want to get a bigger CO2 bottle, so does
anybody know if the regulator would fit on another bigger bottle?

     - Keith


From: Erik Wolla <ew at vingmed_no>
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 1996 21:07:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V1 #285

>From: MMMORRIS at smith_smith.edu
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 1996 22:08:26 -0500 (EST)
>Subject: Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V1 #284
>I have a question for those who have an answer about a problem I am having 
>with a dual light fixture I bought for my 20 long.  I took the fixture apart, 
>connected the endcaps to the inside of my custom made hood, added about 18" of 
>wire to all leads in order to mount the Advance Magnetic ballast under the 
>stand.  I was sure to wire it just like it was originally in the fixture, 
>grounded the ballast, soldered the wires together to assure a good connection
>and when I put it all together . . . . it did not work. All I can assume is
thatthe additional >length in the wire from ballast to light creates enough 

I'm not an expert on FL or advanced magnetic ballasts, but if you used
roughly the same gauge wire as was orginally used, the extra 18" will add a
*very neglible* amount of resistance
to your new circuit. It must be an incompatability between the old and new
ballasts, something wrong with the new ballasts, or (most respectfully) you
have done a wiring error.

>resistance that there isn't enough juice to form the arc necessary to start
the bulbs.  This is >a rapid start setup.  What am I doing wrong?!?!??
>				Thanks in advance,
>					Miles Morrissey
>					Easthampton,MA


End of Aquatic Plants Digest V1 #287

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