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Explosions, Spectra, Nymphaea, Algae
> From: DAWB.DSKPO33B at DSKBGW1_ITG.ti.com (David Webb)
> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 15:47 CST
> >Just a little note. DO NOT LEAVE DIY (yeast in the 1 liter bottle )
> >CO2 Generators shut off completely without a vent!
> Been there, done that, except mine was a glass bottle. Really messy.
> My story's in the CO2 articles in the Krib.
Found these two articles eerily similar; I concatenated this new one in
the "yeast disaster" thread. It's good to know just because you don't spend
$100+ on CO2 doesn't mean you get left out of the interesting disasters.
And speaking of the Krib, lighting fanatics take note: I have recently
added some new material to the lighting section, including spectral curves
of the Sylvania/Osram Dulux series, and a reproduction of the Wonderlite
poop sheet they sent me in the mail. Would like to expand this; if anyone
has any manufacturer's spectral curves drop me a line, please.
> From: Simon Eldridge <simon at uryu_demon.co.uk>
> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 21:33:41 GMT
> Subject: Question Re: Nymphaea Stellata
>
> I posted this question in rec.aquaria, no response. Then I found out
> about this mailing list...great list!
Classic illustration of the need for the split. If I had seen this one,
I would have jumped on it & answered (like I'm doing now). I was
hesistant about the plant newsgroup before; I have seen the light! (but
of course, no more than 13 hours per day. :)
> I have a Nymphaea Stellata bulb and it sprouted leaves aroud the base,
> following this it sent up 3(with another on the way) floating leaves.
This means it's got enough light is healthy, happy, etc. Maybe it'll
even send up a bloom!
> I have seen in magazines photos where there are no floating leaves
> and a very dense rosette of leaves around the bulb. My bulb has stopped
> growing leaves down near the bulb, but has instead sent up floating leaves.
> Is there any way of preventing this, and bring on growth around the base?
Supposedly, if you cut off the floating leaves, it will grow more on the
base.
> Are the leaves near the base not getting enough light?
No, the plant just prefers to send up floating leaves because they catch
more light. It sends out submerged leaves when it is in its recessive
"just need to survive" mode.
> Tank parameters: Ph 6.5 Kh 4-5 Gh 6-7 Temp 25C (77-78F) Yeast generated
> CO2. With two triton 30W.
Sounds like enough light. And CO2.
> Most of my plants are doing well, with the exception of my swords.
> Also what method of propagation does it have? Does it have a dormant phase?
Propagation is by seeds (needs 4-5 floating leaves before sending up a bloom;
I don't know if they do this in aquaria), or by bulb division.
> From: Kenneth J McNeil <mcnei002 at maroon_tc.umn.edu>
> Date: Mon, 10 Jul 1995 18:50:02 -0500 (CDT)
> Subject: List of plants available through mail order
>
> Since people are frequently asking for sources of different plants I
> compiled a list of plants that are available through mail order (don't
> look for Glossostigma, it wasn't available).
If you send it to me, I'll put it on the Krib. As always. :)
> From: KB Koh <KB_Koh at ccm_ipn.intel.com>
> Date: Tue, 11 Jul 95 10:56:00 PDT
>
> Should we have a list of fish not recommended for plant tank in the plant
> FAQ? I've just recovered from nightmare with Clown Loaches. We could also
> add list of plants that can withstand those fishes.
You'll probably find this a bigger task than you think, because much of
this is going to vary not only by plant & fish combination, but also by
keeper. For instance, I had angelfish who destroyed my giant Hygro by
nipping off new shoots, and Congo Tetras who desctroyed my Anubias by nipping
off new shoots, but I've never heard confirmation of this from anyone else.
Certainly we might be able to beef up what we have:
---begin inclusion---
``What kind of plants can I keep with fish X?''
``What kind of fish can I keep with plant X?''
These are essentially the same question, though asking the second one
shows you are a serious plant person. You need to match the habits of the
fish with the plant. Big cichlids that like to dig should not be kept in a
tank with rooted plants, though floating (or ephiphytic) plants are fine.
Vegetarian fish should not be kept in a tank with plants they like to eat,
unless the plants grow faster than they destroy them! Some algae-eating
fish also turn out to be plant-eaters too. In general, try and learn the
habits of your fish before you buy them and your plants, and be prepared
to find out what works by several trials.
Some fish that can be kept with virtually any plants: small tetras,
danios, rasboras, gouramis, discus, bettas, angelfish (Pterophylum),
rainbowfish, Corydorus catfish, livebearers, killifish, dwarf cichlids,
and in general most small fish.
---end of inclusion---
> Blue-green bacteria has started to appear in my tank a couple of weeks
> ago. It started below the gravel surface beside the glass and moving
> upward. They only appeared at certain spots in my tank.
>
> Q:Should I be alarmed by this?
>
> I've read the FAQ and articles in the Krib but there is no precise
> rule mentioned to prevent them. There are hints here and there.
This just started happening to me a few weeks ago too. I haven't had a
touch of b/g in the tank, except in the prefilter, for the last year and a
half. Since the onset of summer, the part of my tank that faces the
window has been building up a patch of cyanobacteria that's been spreading
slowly towards the rest of the tank. I nuked it with Erithromyacin at
half strength. It's interesting, because that part of the tank (and ONLY
that part of the tank) received direct sun during the afternoon & was not
subject to the 1.5 hour "dark period" imposed on the rest of the tank.
Perhaps there is something to that whole photoperiod/algae issue.
Whew, long one.
- Erik
---
Erik D. Olson At home.
olson at phys_washington.edu