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Double (triple) posting




 Everyone,

 Please excuse my triple posting the other day.  I am having problems telling
whether my messages are going out or not. They seem not to on my end, but go
through anyway.  I'll try to avoid it in the future, but if it happens again,
please bear with me.  The good news is that I _am_ better at growing plants
than at getting computers to behave!

 Subject: C. pontederifolia,

 Peter,

 >> I see that you are growing Crypt pontederifolia.  How is it doing in your
tank?  Is it shaded, in the open, etc? How large, and how many leaves?   How
quickly does it grow?
 I'm still struggling with this plant and would appreciate any advice. <<

 I'm keeping this plant too.  I've had one for about 2 1/2 years, the other
I've had since December.  Both came with emersed growth leaves that had curled
back under the base of the plant, and two or three measly little roots, so
they were very hard to initially anchor in the substrate.

 The first was kept for most of its life in a very low tech tank with hard
water, high pH (about 8),  low light and no supplemental CO2. It got to be
about 3" high, and grew a number of new leaves, but it was always pale, and
never looked particularly robust.

 When I got the second plant, I put both in my Discus tank, which has
reasonable light (although very filtered by the time it reaches the bottom of
the tank) supplemental CO2 and my UGF/heater system for slow water movement
through the substrate.  Substrate consists of #1 gravel ammended with laterite
and plant food tablets.  I use Duplaplant 24 daily.

 Under these conditions, the C. pontederifolia has really taken off.  While it
has yet to develop offsets, the two original plants are more than 6" tall,
have numerous leaves and are a beautiful luminous green.  This growth has
occurred mainly within the last 6-8 weeks, so my feeling is that the plants
have finally settled in and are just getting started.

 Subject: George Booth
 David,

 >>  I'm sort of surprised that you've had success keeping echonidorus species
and anubias together successfully since they have such significantly different
light requirements. <<

 I also keep Anubias sp. (and varieties) in the same tanks as Echinodorus sp.
(and varieties).  My 55G Discus tank has E. bleheri (too large and needs to be
removed) and E. 'Rubin', A. gracilis, A. barteri v. 'nana', A. 'coffeefolia',
A. congensis, and A. 'caladifolia'.

 Remember that a well grown Echinodorus of one of the larger species creates a
lot of shady areas.  It's good we have Anubias and other shade tolerant
species that are willing to fill in these niches.

 Subject: Transplanting Cryptocorynes

 David Huie writes:

 >>  I just transplanted a few very large c. wendtii (40+ leaves, 11" tall)
from the front of the tank to the back and I trimmed the roots like you are
supposed to--I just wondered whether cryptocoryne rot was likely to set in
because of the shock to the plant. <<

 I have found C. wendtii to be one of the sturdiest, most "bomb-proof" Crypts.
I have stands up to 18" tall and covering areas of the substrate up to about
6x10".  I have ripped up sections of these stands numerous times to move to
other tanks, sell at club auctions and give away.  I've never had any
particular problems with the original stands or with the offsets that are
transplanted.  I may see a leaf or 3 start to deteriorate, but these are
quickly replaced by new growth.

  E-mail from: Karen Randall, 15-Jun-1995