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Re: [APD] Standpipe Advice (Stockman or Durso)

Consider yourself lucky. A table saw would be a dangerous way to cut the reducer, at least without a special jig to hold the piece and keep your hands safely away from the blade. But even then, it's too short a piece of stock to work on a tablesaw.

A backsaw or not too expensive dovetail saw, with about 18-20 teeth per inch works very well and is easy to control. A Japanese dozuki would work even better but you're not likely to find a decent inexpensive. Of course, to use a handsaw, you would best use a vice to hold the piece firmly.

With drains, better too big than too small. ;-)

The stockman will fit in places where the Durso won't, which was the original motivation for designing it. Although the overall diamter of a comparable capacity Stockman isn not less than a Durso, with the Durso one and one half of the total diameter is all to one side of the center.

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----- Original Message ----
From: Jerry Baker <jerry at bakerweb_biz>
To: APD <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 5:27:40 PM
Subject: [APD] Standpipe Advice (Stockman or Durso)

The Durso standpipe instructions were very clear that if using a 1" 
drain, that 1-1/4" pipe needs to be used. Let it be known that this is 
also the case with the Stockman variation. I tried it with a 1" pipe and 
couldn't stop the gurgling. It was easy enough to control the 
"flushing", but the gurgling was being caused by the physics of the 
water flowing over the pipe edge. With the 1" pipe the water was flowing 
over in such a way that there was no free column in the center for air. 
That caused the gurgling. I constructed another one out of 1-1/2" pipe 
and it works great.

This leads me to another thing: If you don't have a table saw handy, I 
found it much easier to just drill as many holes as you can into the 
area between the "fins" on the reducer bushings rather than cutting it 
apart to allow water flow.

Thanks to everyone who assisted (Scott).

Jerry Baker
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