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[APD] Re: Custom Sealife Britelite
I'm a little confused about this. When I put the lighting together using AH
supply kit, I recall the wiring was different for 40 w or 55 w lamps. I
don't remember exactly how the wiring differed, but assume the ballasts are
pushed a little higher. You can't get 55 w out of the fixture if you wired
it for 40. I "think" a 55 W bulb would then only produce the equivalent of a
40W, and likewise, if you tried to push the 40W to run higher (55W if you
had it wired that way), you'd probably burn it out quickly? I do recall,
since they are wired in parallel, they had to be equal.
The Custom Sealife is rated and wired to run 65w watt bulbs. You could put a
55 watt bulb in, but you'd get a tad less lighting out of it. I talked to a
rep for a while a few years ago about this. He very kindly sent me two 65 w
bulbs free (back when they were around) because I couldn't find replacement
For others not aware when reading the below, AH Supply uses the straight pin
configuration. Custom Sealife strip is square pin, and the ballasts were
wired in series.
Trying to decipher the information below, it's important to take into
account how much lighting you actually get out when you swap bulbs, as well
as optimum bulb life. These bulbs can be expensive, though I just found some
pretty cheap ones listed on Ebay.
As an aside, as I was limping through trying to provide lighting in the
meantime (and I have an Indian Red sword on the dark side of the tank that
has been at a standstill and doesn't look much like an Indian Red ;-) -- I
let it go for a few weeks with the lighting burned out. Wasn't sure what I
was doing with that tank, or the hood. Then I tried throwing different
strips that I could wedge there, or prop on the outside. I got beautiful
violet color leaf growth during that time. It's making me think of some
possibilities besides just throwing on a 65 ballast and fixing the strip,
though that would be easiest. 130 W gave me a _relatively_ maintenance-free,
algae free tank. I had settled on plants that could handle the environment.
Surprised to find that Egeria Najas will grow in the dark very well after
that strip went. But not much else! ButI like the effect of different
temperature bulbs over the tank, and tapering off at the end of the lighting
cycle. Made me think of building a hood, and using several of these
fixtures, timed to go off independently (maybe 3 different power sources).
I've never seen that color on the Indian Sword, and thinking the combo of
the light bulbs might give me a cheap home-made upgrade to a better lighting
Thanks for the input here.
That's some generally good advice since some ballasts can
handle driving two lamps slightly differently but some
can't, depending on whther they are driving the bulbs in
parallel or serial or whether the lamps are driven by
separate supplies inside a single ballast. I believe the
65w bulbs just run with a slightly lower DC resistance than
the 55w and that's the only significant diff. The diff in
watt rating is less than the diff in actual watt output for
a given bulb when used with diff ballasts.
Square-array pins vs straight-row pins is a diff matter.
The startting requirements are diff and the ballasting
requiremetns are diff so diff ballasts are needed (or if
the ballasts allow for wiring in diff ways, diff wireing
schema are required.
Get real, get plants,
--- "Richard J. Sexton" <richard at aquaria_net> wrote:
At 04:28 AM 8/2/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>If the pins array is the same, you can use a 65w on a
>ballast without any problems.
Yup. But you can't mix them if it's a twin tube fixture.
tubes must be the same wattage.
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