Re: [APD] De-chloramination

["S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>]

Chlorine is very unstable and very temporary. Chloramines
are very stable and rather permanent, providing long
lasting protection in your drinking water.

Problem with chloramines for aquarists is that chemicals
that "break apart" the chloramine bond leave you with
chlorine (unstable and not a big problem) and the ammonia
component. Ugh. If you have chloramines in your water you
want to use one of the ater treatments that not only break
apart the chloramine bond but that also binds the nitrogen
from the chloramine.

SeaChem Prime breaks up the chloramine and binds
thenitrogen in a safe form while still leaving the nitrogen
in a form available to the plants. Sort of win-win
situation. ;-)

Scott H.



--- Nicolas Munro <nmunro at qld_yokogawa.com.au> wrote:

> I presume there is probably a difference between Chlorine
> and Chloromine.
> 
> Ive read on a couple of sites that chlorine can be gotten
> rid of by 
> either sitting a bucket of water for a while or turning
> the tap on 
> really hard so the Chlorine gas just 'evaporates'.
> 
> Chloromine is a chemical added to the water to perform
> the same job as 
> chlorine. It doesn't respond to sitting water or strong
> currents which 
> is why the water companys use it.
> 
> So I suggest you phone ya water company to see what they
> add to the 
> water supply.
> 
> =Nick
> 
> Mariano Fernández Bonfante wrote:
> 
> > Dear Thomas:
> >
> > I was just sharing a method developed when I was
> breading Discus, 
> > making 10% water changes in a daily basis. The barrel
> filling was 
> > automated, so my only concern was to drain and refill
> the tanks as 
> > quickly as possible, without considering the incoming
> water temp o PH. 
> > I agree that plants aren?t so picky with water
> requirement, but I keep 
> > on with it because it is already set.
> >
> > By the way, I had some few bad experiences filling a
> tank directly 
> > from water tap years ago, especially in winter,
> although this was my 
> > chosen method during 15 years o so. Basically some
> Discus developed 
> > eye cloudiness or gill problems from time to time. The
> other point was 
> > that a ¾ hose speed up the process. Moreover, I treated
> water with a 
> > PH reducer, so it wasn?t possible to add it directly to
> the tank 
> > without hurting the fishes. For these reasons the
> auxiliary barrel 
> > appeared.
> >
> > When I started with this hobbie the only dechlor
> available was in 
> > crystal, and needed 48 hs to work. Then the instant
> dechlor appears 
> > and it was amazing how the time requirement was
> reduced, it is great 
> > stuff. But today I use no dechlor since in a week it
> runs out from the 
> > water by itself. But the use or not of dechlor in my
> opinion it isn?t 
> > an important issue. I consider the key factor is the
> tank size and the 
> > time elapsed for the water change.
> >
> > Thank for your comments.
> >
> > Mariano
> >
> >
> >> From: Thomas Narten <narten at cs_duke.edu>
> >> Reply-To: aquatic plants digest
> <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >> Subject: Re: [APD] De-chloramination Date: Wed, 29 Jun
> 2005 20:57:47 
> >> -0400
> >>
> >> > I have a 100G tank, so a 50% water change means a
> lot of water. A 
> >> week after
> >> > the water change I fill a 50G barrel with tap water,
> with a heater 
> >> inside
> >> > and an internal filter for water recirculation.
> After a week the 
> >> water is
> >> > chlorine free and at the correct temperature. Prior
> the water 
> >> change I add
> >> > some soda to adjust PH. I fill the main tank with a
> hose and a 
> >> power head
> >> > placed inside the auxiliary barrel.
> >>
> >> Seems like a lot of work. If you have that kind of
> time, go for it.
> >>
> >> For some 8 years or so now, I do 50% water changes, by
> adding de-chlor
> >> to the tank and then filling direct from the tap (via
> a hose). Having
> >> the temp within a few degrees or so (say 5?) is good
> enough. I just
> >> don't think healthy fish are that sensitive to that
> kind of change in
> >> water temp and/or chemistry. (Do you think water
> conditions are
> >> completely constant out in the wild?)
> >>
> >> I do this with fry in grow out tanks too, and again,
> no problem.
> >>
> >> And, my tap water is very soft, so I have pH issues
> sometimes. It
> >> comes out of my tap near 8, but the pH in my tanks has
> been at 6 (or
> >> lower -- test kit doesn't say!) and then done a water
> change in which
> >> the resultant pH goes up to 7 (or from 7-8) as a
> result of a water
> >> change. Again, I don't think this has caused any
> actual problem in
> >> practice. (The fish in question are Rams, btw, which
> are supposed to
> >> be more delicate than other fish.)
> >>
> >> I've only had one incident doing this, and that was
> clearly operator
> >> error. The fish looked stressed almost immediately
> after the water
> >> change, so I added more dechlor. But a good number of
> them died. I
> >> surely forgot to add the de-chlor or something, which
> one must watch
> >> out for when doing many tanks and trying to be fast
> about it while the
> >> mind is thinking about other things...
> >>
> >> Point is, no need to be overly careful here. Just be
> sure to add
> >> dechlor. It's very cheap insurance. (And I only bother
> with the stuff
> >> that is for dechlor only and takes 5ml per 20G or so)
> >>
> >> Thomas
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> >> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> >> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo/aquatic-plants
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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