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[APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 47



Regarding the regulator tank seal. I will share my experience. My
regulator has a "quad seal" (squarish o-ring). That seals against the
flat surface of the tank valve. I had to take a fine stone like what you
sharpen knives with and carefully dress the sealing surface of the tank
valve. It had been banged up with burrs and had worn sealing surface.
After stoning a flat planar surface on the tank valve sealing surface
the interface finally sealed up. 
Good Luck,
Randy


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Today's Topics:

   1. Marine carbon source (S. Lardizabal)
   2. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 45 (William Lynn)
   3. Re: Sochting Carbonator (Nestor D Gregorio)
   4. Re: re: problem with tank/regulator seal (S. Hieber)
   5. Re: Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 45 (S. Hieber)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 01:22:12 +0000
From: slardizabal at comcast_net (S. Lardizabal)
Subject: [APD] Marine carbon source
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

To begin with, I'm interested in setting up a seagrass tank.  I realize
this isnt the best forum for a marine plant but its pretty much all I've
got at present.  The folks at reefcentral.com dont seem to be very
specific about light requirements, nutrient requirements, etc.  I
thought I would try here, thinking all the experts in freshwater plants
might have some ideas for saltwater. 

After a lot of consideration and research so far I've chosen to try out
two species - Zostera marina (eelgrass), a temperate species and
Syringodium filiforme (manatee grass), a more tropical species.  These
are very similar to Vallisneria species and differ mainly in their
salinity tolerances and geographic distribution.  It seems in their
natural habitat they are quite severely limited by both light and CO2. 
Light requirements for these two species has been noted as a minimum of
18-30% of the available surface light.  In the marine environment light
attenuation seems to be a major problem as the light gets absorbed by
phytoplankton, dissolved organic compounds, etc.  Does anyone have an
idea of how to convert this to a needed light intensity measurement - or
even a wpg guess?  The measurements for surface light intensity aren't
apparently given in the academic papers I'm seeing published.  

Also, as far as CO2, apparently if enrichment is provided the light
requirements in seagrass decreases.. potentially lowering the amount of
light needed on a seagrass tank (that is, if I can establish normal
light level req's at all).  However, normal means of supplementation
wont be desirable in this tank since the CO2 levels will drop the pH and
cause some swings during day/night periods.  Considering the long term
planned inhabitants, this wont likely be tolerated.  Also, dissolved gas
levels in the aquarium need to remain low enough to discourage gas
bubble disease (GBD), which these fish are susceptible too.  I was
considering using Flourish Excel as a carbon source.  Has anyone used
this in a marine environment before?  Any ideas on interactions?

I really appreciate any help and ideas!  Thanks!
>Sarah

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 18:47:29 -0800
From: "William Lynn" <wlynn at telus_net>
Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 45
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Yes, you need a washer and if the regulator connector isn't brass (ie
JBJ) 
you will need gas tape for the threads...
I had to make a few of those %$^#! trips myself.....

Mine finally gave the up the ghost after 15yrs....I went a supplier of
brass 
valves/fittings etc (for gases) they gave a few different sizes to try
for 
free and they worked, Try the Yellow pages, you might find somewhere 
nearer...

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:37:44 -0500
> From: "Nicholas Plummer" <nickplummer at nc_rr.com>
> Subject: [APD] Problem with tank/regulator seal
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
>
> I just exchanged the CO2 tank for my planted aquarium, and I am
having a
> hard time getting a good seal between tank and regulator.  The old
tank 
> had
> what looked like a black rubber or plastic washer that allowed the 
> regulator
> to seal tightly.  The new tank doesn't have that.  Do I need to buy
some
> sort of washer or o-ring?
>
> It's a 1.5 hour round trip to the welding supply shop, so I'll be
fairly
> grumpy if I need to make another trip.
>
>
>
> 



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 22:37:25 +0800
From: "Nestor D Gregorio" <pinoyaqua at edsamail_com.ph>
Subject: [APD] Re: Sochting Carbonator
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

This is to request help if anybody has done a DIY version of this
carbonator. and what precisely do you do with citric acid to generate
carbon dioxide. No possibility of buying the carbonator in our part of
town and even if we get to a piece, getting refills??? would be a
problem so we have to be resourceful. help please
nestor

_______________________________________
EDSAMAIL. Internet the way YOU WANT IT.
www.edsamail.com.ph


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 07:07:52 -0800 (PST)
From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] re: problem with tank/regulator seal
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Rule of thumb: tapered threads pull two pieces together so
that the sidewalls seals against each other at the threads
-- usually requiring thread sealant (putty or tape).
Non-tapered threads pull two pieces together so that mating
surfaces on the ends meet and seal--usually requiring a
washer.


sh--- Nicholas Plummer <nickplummer at nc_rr.com> wrote:

> Hi Scott,
> 
> I am talking about the connection between the tank valve
> and regulator, and 
> the tank valve is indeed a CGA-320 fitting.  There does
> appear to be a space 
> between the regulator and the tank valve for a washer.  I
> guess I should go 
> and buy a washer.
> 
> Nick 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo/aquatic-plants
> 



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2005 07:10:35 -0800 (PST)
From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 45
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Tape should not be necessary with a CGA-320 fitting --
either the mating surfaces seal against the washer or the
washer or the surfaces are defective -- or the nut is loose
;-)

sh
--- William Lynn <wlynn at telus_net> wrote:

> Yes, you need a washer and if the regulator connector
> isn't brass (ie JBJ) 
> you will need gas tape for the threads...
> I had to make a few of those %$^#! trips myself.....
> 
> Mine finally gave the up the ghost after 15yrs....I went
> a supplier of brass 
> valves/fittings etc (for gases) they gave a few different
> sizes to try for 
> free and they worked, Try the Yellow pages, you might
> find somewhere 
> nearer...
> 
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:37:44 -0500
> > From: "Nicholas Plummer" <nickplummer at nc_rr.com>
> > Subject: [APD] Problem with tank/regulator seal
> > To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> >
> > I just exchanged the CO2 tank for my planted aquarium,
> and I am having a
> > hard time getting a good seal between tank and
> regulator.  The old tank 
> > had
> > what looked like a black rubber or plastic washer that
> allowed the 
> > regulator
> > to seal tightly.  The new tank doesn't have that.  Do I
> need to buy some
> > sort of washer or o-ring?
> >
> > It's a 1.5 hour round trip to the welding supply shop,
> so I'll be fairly
> > grumpy if I need to make another trip.
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo/aquatic-plants
> 



------------------------------

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End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 18, Issue 47
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