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Re: [APD] treating change water
I'm not sure (I'm not really one of the people who knows their stuff on
this list), but I don't think the level of KH is critical either. I think
it is the level of calcium and magnesium, the 'true' hardness or GH, that
can cause osmotic shock. These do not affect pH, however water with a high
KH is somewhat critical if you are using CO2. If you get shifted off to
very high CO2 concentrations you can have problems with fish deaths. Best
to check KH and pH periodically to be sure of the CO2 levels using the
well-known chart. Apparently municipal water supplies in some areas change
water sources and/or treatment regimens with changing seasons, and the
resulting different water chemistry can sometimes be a problem when
changing tank water.
shock. But assuming you buy your fish from a local shop, they will be
acclimatised to the tap water already...
Not necessarily -- especially in areas where water supplies are sourced
from wells. In most larger areas with municipal water supplies you would
most likely be correct though.
Doing 50% water changes every week seems to be the best suggestion that I
have heard.
I have good luck doing about a 50-60% water change every other week. If I
miss one I start seeing problems within about a week though (usually).
I have heard the best way to control your water (if you really do have
hard water, what is your GH and KH?) is to get an RO unit, but it is by no
means required.
I think RO is pretty much the only way to do this. Water softeners just
trade one problem for another. RO actually removes most everything from the
water, but the resulting water has nearly zero buffering capacity and is
hazardous to the fish if left untreated. Some just use the RO water to
"water down" the normal tap water to arrive at the water chemistry they
want, others use commercial mixes to treat the RO water to arrive at some
known water state.
-Bill
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Waveform Technology
UNIX Systems Administrator
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