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Re: [APD] treating change water




I'm not sure (I'm not really one of the people who knows their stuff on this list), but I don't think the level of KH is critical either. I think it is the level of calcium and magnesium, the 'true' hardness or GH, that can cause osmotic shock. These do not affect pH, however water with a high

KH is somewhat critical if you are using CO2. If you get shifted off to very high CO2 concentrations you can have problems with fish deaths. Best to check KH and pH periodically to be sure of the CO2 levels using the well-known chart. Apparently municipal water supplies in some areas change water sources and/or treatment regimens with changing seasons, and the resulting different water chemistry can sometimes be a problem when changing tank water.


shock. But assuming you buy your fish from a local shop, they will be acclimatised to the tap water already...

Not necessarily -- especially in areas where water supplies are sourced from wells. In most larger areas with municipal water supplies you would most likely be correct though.


Doing 50% water changes every week seems to be the best suggestion that I have heard.

I have good luck doing about a 50-60% water change every other week. If I miss one I start seeing problems within about a week though (usually).


I have heard the best way to control your water (if you really do have hard water, what is your GH and KH?) is to get an RO unit, but it is by no means required.

I think RO is pretty much the only way to do this. Water softeners just trade one problem for another. RO actually removes most everything from the water, but the resulting water has nearly zero buffering capacity and is hazardous to the fish if left untreated. Some just use the RO water to "water down" the normal tap water to arrive at the water chemistry they want, others use commercial mixes to treat the RO water to arrive at some known water state.


-Bill


***************************** Waveform Technology UNIX Systems Administrator

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