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[APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 14, Issue 4
I pretty much do the same thing. I keep a nutradip PH probe in my tank
24/7 and watch the effect of increasing/decreasing CO2. I can work out
the PPM easily enough with a little math once I know what the KH is. I
also use sodium bicarbonate in a water solution to up the KH as a result
of water changes.
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2004 08:41:24 +1000
From: "Michi Henning" <michi at zeroc_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 14, Issue 2
To: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>, "aquatic plants digest"
<aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
"S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com> wrote:
I was thinking of the test kits you can by where you
titrate a solution, counting the drops, and watch for a
These are affected by a number of things and are based on a
pH reaction (I'm sure I'm saying this the wsrong way). But
time alone seems to goof them up. When they are brand new,
they are probably okay if there isn't much affecting your
pH beside CO2.
Ah, I've never used one of those CO2 tests. I just measure pH
(with a probe, so it's fairly accurate, maybe +-0.05 degrees, and I
measure KH, which I can also do quite accurately. (Doubling
the amount of water doubles the number of drops needed
for the reaction, so accuracy is about +-0.5 degrees.)
A KH/pH/CO2 chart then tells me the rest.
I keep the permanent CO2 indicator in the tank mainly to alert
me if something goes grossly wrong, such as way too
much or way too little CO2.
I keep an excel spreadsheet as a log of what I do to my aquarium, and
all the readings. Then by looking back over a period of time to see what
got the best results. In turn I can honestly say that a 5.6 dKH, PH 6.8
and adding 5ml of PMDD solution every 3-5 days appeared to be optimum.
I've only got 1.6 watts/g of CF light in my 65g tank, but my plants can
do well in those conditions.
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