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Re: [APD] do it yourself reflectors...



The quality of the aluminizing on the mylar substrate can
very a lot, not just from source to source but also from
diff parts of the same role. 1st test is to hold it up to
the bright room light. If you see light passing through it,
then it's probably not reflecting 90% of the light striking
it.

Mylar is easy to work with since it's such a strong
plastic. A can of 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive, which holds
up to high temperatures very well, is an easy way to
install the mylar. Spray the mating surfaces, apply the
film, roll or press out any bubbles, let set, and voila.

Glass mirrors or usually designed for reflecting a cohorent
image rather than a bright one.

Btw, whenever using a spray adhesive, it's always a good
idea to wear a dust mask -- not to protect you from the gas
used as a propellant or evaporant, but to guard against the
slim but dangerous chance of any adhesive getting into your
throat or lungs ;-)

Good luck, good fun,
Scott H.
--- Tundra pants <TundraPlants at gmail_com> wrote:

> Stealing from thekrib:
> 
> > These figures are from an old hydroponics source. 
> Unfortunately I
> > know longer have the URL.  These figures, represent 
> the percentange
> > of light reflected.
> 
> >     Mylar 90-95
> >     Flat white paint 85-93
> >     Semi-gloss white 75-80
> >     Flat yellow 70-80
> >     Aluminum foil 70-75
> 
> Mylar can be easily found in the form of solar blankets
> (2-3$ at your
> local camping / sporting goods store), White paint has
> generally been
> my favorite.
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 10:18:52 -0300, Benjamin Hong
> <bkhong at rogers_com> wrote:
> > I was trying to find stuff on DIY reflectors, and had
> little success, so I
> > just spent about $10 on mirror tiles at Walmart and
> covered the inside of
> > the hood with them.  Tedious, but effective.
> > 
> > B.
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 16:07:12 +0200
> > From: "Phillip Grobler" <pfgrobler at hotmail_com>
> > Subject: [APD] Submerged light.
> > To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> > 
> > I was reading up again on the argument of wether the
> depth of the tank
> > influences the ammount of light needed. And now I'm
> wondering. The
> > distance between the bulb and the water surface seems
> to have a reletavily
> > large effect an the ammount of light that actualy
> reached the bottom of the
> > tank. Whould it not make sence to place the tubes them
> selfs under the
> > water surface ?
> > 
> > If you use CF's or PC's it should be fairly simple
> process to get a water
> > tight
> > seal arround the electrical connections.
> > 
> > On my own tank has a glass lid that is actualy still
> part of the main tank
> > so
> > it whould be very easy to flood the lid and have the
> tubes submerged. I
> > realise that heat from the bulbs might then become a
> problem.
> > 
> > Does someone have a link to a good  DIY reflector
> design, idealy with
> > comparisons to other reflectors.
> > 
> > Phillip Grobler
> > Cell: +27 083 654 0250
> > Instant messaging:
> > MSN: pfgrobler at hotmail_com
> > Yahoo: pfgrobler at yahoo_co.uk
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> >
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> >
> _______________________________________________
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> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
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> 


=====
Plant your feet in Washington, D.C. and touch the moon -- at the National Air & Space Museum. 
And learn the art of aquascaping Senske style at AGA2K4. 

Speakers, field trip, Ray "Kingfish" Lucas, and more. . .
The Annual AGA Convention, 2004, November 12-14.

Convention Details/Registration at aquatic-gardeners.org & gwapa.org
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