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[APD] RE: red plants



So, what u guys are saying is in order to get my plants red i should
keep my nitrate at 5 mg/L but increase the rest of my ferts (right now
i add 1.25 ml of kno3, .625 ml of k2so4m .01 ml of kh2po4, and 4 ml of
TMG, 2x per week) and combat the algae i'd get by adding the more
ferts with bigger water changes?

Will the bigger water changes successfully combat the algae? ever
since i got rid of my glosso carpet, algae's started growing on my
Cyperus helferi and it's not pretty.

About the 2 discus, i realize it's a tight fit but it was a suprise
gift, and they seem happy now.

Another thing... i've started to become concern about my heating
setup... right now i use the hydor inline heater to keep my tank at 82
degrees. Should i be concerned that my substrate is probably colder..
or would a hotter substrate be too hot for already stressed
(temperature-wise) plants.

Anyways, totally grateful.. didn't realize that more no3 turns red
plants green....

thanks tom and paul

Byron



> Having low nitrogen and the rest of the nutrients in good supply
> along with bright light is known to enhance red coloring.  However,
> with discus in a 21 gallon tank, I don't think that keeping nitrate
> low is an option. Just get the light as high as you can.
> --
> Paul Krombholz in sunny central Mississippi
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2004 10:26:42 -0400
> From: "Thomas Barr" <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
> Subject: [APD] RE: red plants
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> 
> >A little info on my tank:
> >-21 gallon
> >-130 watts power compact lighting (7 months old)
> >-co2: 20-30 ppm via pressurized co2
> >-ph: 6.7
> >-temp: 28 celcius/82 F (i have discus)
> 
> Discus in a 21 gal tank? Think about the future when they are fully grown.
> This is simply too small.
> 
> >-water changes: 4 gallons 2x a week
> 
> Try 10-15 gal once a week or 2x week if you feed a lot.
> 
> >-fertilizers: Macronutrients via hydroponic ferts, 8 ml of TMG a week
> 
> Add more TMG, like 2x more.
> 5mls 3x a week
> 
> >-no3: 5-10 mg/l
> 
> Here's the issue.
> Stop adding the KNO3 but still add some KCl or K2SO4.
> Then the plant will turn redder.
> Add KNO3 and see it turn Green again.
> Do not let the NO3 drop too much below 5ppm.
> 
> This will be an issue when you have so much light and hence uptake to
> maintain the NO3 at a stable level. Add this with high variable feed rates
> of the Discus and this becomes increasingly more difficult.
> 
> Trying to achieve a stable low NO3 can be a challenge and more light, over
> feed fish in a too small tank is not a good way to do this.
> 
> >I'm mostly concerned cause i just got eusteralis stellata and want
> >those to grow well. I've heard that light and iron help plants turn
> >red, but i have enough light, and i'm pretty sure there's enough
> >ferts.
> 
> So in your opinion, is there any Truth that light and iron really play much
> role in red color?
> 
> I hear people say this often but I've found no support for this claim.
> 
> Yet you have green plants, so try varying the NO3 now.
> Are you adding PO4?
> 
> Add enough NO3 for the ES.
> 
> I had a glosso carpet a month ago but took it out cause it was
> >growing too fast.
> 
> Probably ate most of the NO3, when you removed it, the NO3 likely went up.
> 
> I've tried to lower my ferts since then cause i
> >started having a small algae problem (didn't have algae b4 with the
> >glosso).
> >Any suggestions?
> >thanks
> >Byron
> 
> I'd increase the water change volume(50%). Add 1/4 teaspoon of KNO3 3-4x a
> week.
> 1/16" of teaspoon of KH2PO4 along with the KNO3 3-4x a week.
> Dose 5mls of TMG 3x a week on seperate off days from the macro nutrients.
> Keep the GH at 3-5 or more.
> 
> Make sure the CO2 is 20+ppm all the time the lights are on.
> 
> I would caution you with limiting the NO3 to cause red color. You can stunt
> your plants if the NO3 levels are not stable at lower levels.
> You can bottom out the NO3 easily and with poor test kits, this becomes
> very problematic or people who try and guess at 1-4ppm ranges. Eventually
> you screw up.
> Then the plants look bad. Many add the KNO3 and live with a little green
> but can let the NO3 fall for a nice open house or something or a photo.
> Too  much NO3, nott he right color you like, too little and the plant
> suffers and stunts/tank gets algae.
> 
> Relying on the fish waste can help stabilize the tank's NO3/NH4 and also
> just a good eye watching, getting a good feel how far you can go with it
> with your tank or with certain plants.
> 
> Not all plants enjoy low NO3 levels. Some tolerate it better than others. I
> get pretty good color without keeping it that low.
> Working on regular dosing to the water column makes the tank run better
> along with good CO2.
> 
> I've run tanks at this level of light for many years. I will tell you this
> about red plants: at LOWER light it is easier to maintain a stable NO3
> level with a decent fish load.
> So less light will make things easier to yeild redder color rather than
> higher..............2w/gal produced some of the best coloration I've seen.
> 
> Regards,
> Tom Barr
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
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> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 11, Issue 30
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