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Re: [APD] RE: calcium ???

> I can't tell the scale from the photograph.

Steve here it is:

> I think some types of small
> snails have a very thin shell that can be translucent. In my tanks if Ca
> is low & CO2 levels are high, the snail shells will become eroded &
> white. Once eroded, they never return to the proper brown color however,
> where new shell grows along the front edges, it will be a nice shiny
> dark brown if there is enough calcium in an aquarium. It takes several
> weeks to see a change in snail shells enough to confirm something like
> this. It won't happen overnight.
> > My water company receives their water from many sources,
> > the water changes a little from time to time.
> > The other problem is they don't have recent detailed tests,
> > and most of the time, it' s crap...
> So did they provide you with any information? While the amount of a
> particular mineral in the water may vary by -50% to +300% or more, any
> set of test results would give some indication of the true levels of Ca
> in the water. Since the tests vary according to the source of water, you
> can ask for an analysis of water from each of the sources and thereby
> bracket the ranges of Ca. If each of the water sources has a range of Ca
> from 50 to 500 ppm, then you should be able to provide enough Ca by
> changing water more frequently. You have to read the analysis carefully
> since it may be expressed as ppm of CaCO3 not elemental Ca.

because the water come from a distant place, different regions will get
different water (calcium precipitation, copper from the water
the water company posts all the values, but only the average... with higher
and lower values a lot different from the mean...

> > Even with bi-weekly water changes I didn't manage to improve
> > anything, it did get better for 1 day, but...I have 300W
> > Metal Halide HCI (even more light than HQI), so everything is
> > in fast gear, 2 days after and the same problems arise...
> I don't think you would be able to observe much difference in only a day
> but perhaps you can watch the growth tips of your Hygrophila and if they
> are normal for a few days & then return to being wrinkled & distorted by
> the end of two weeks, then it is a calcium shortage that is being
> temporarily alleviated.
> > I put some calcareous rock on my filter (it's almost pure
> > calcareous), don't know if this will help a little...it was a
> > big stone!
> > I will also drop the use of MgSO4.
> Until you know how much Ca and Mg is in your tap water, its difficult to
> know if you can get away without supplementing it. You can add both
> safely in the amounts that your plants will need & not worry. If you
> have double or ten times the minimum calcium you need, everything will
> be fine; just don't change the water hardness too much all at once for
> the sake of the fish.
> Calcium should be supplied approximately 3:1 molar ratio to magnesium.
> If you are dry dosing you can use 1 tsp of calcium carbonate for every
> 10 gallons of water exchanged. That is about 3-8 grams depending upon
> how fluffy or granular the CaCO3 is. I won't work out the % of Ca in a
> gram of CaCO3 or Mg in MgSo4*6H2O (Epsom salt) but its easy to do using
> the molecular weights of each element. If you use 3:1 ratio by volume of
> the dried powders, you're close enough for growing plants. So if you add
> 1 tsp of CaCO3 then you want 1/3 tsp of MgSO4. For Europeans who use
> metric measurements that would be about 1.5 grams of CaCO3 for each 10
> litres of water changed. Remember that if the Ca is being used up in the
> tank, even though you have 150 mg/L of CaCO3, it will be diluted to
> about a third or a quarter of that concentration.
> Putting limestone or calcareous rock in your filter may provide some Ca
> for a while however it may be too much initially and not enough after a
> few weeks. Rocks quickly become coated with slime and will not dissolve.
> If the rock is friable or porous, you may have too much hardness. Its
> just preferable to dose CaCO3 as a fine powder which you mix with water
> in a jar and then pour into the aquarium. If you're not changing water
> every week or two, you can always add a little extra treat of CaCO3 now
> and then, say a quarter tsp for a large tank every few weeks.

When I have to clean the filter I will clean the stone...

I am starting to believe that I must sell some of my discus...
No improvements still...
> There are other forms that you can add calcium in. Calcium nitrate can
> be used however its more difficult to find. It dissolves readily but
> can't be mixed with other solutions since the calcium would precipitate
> with any sulphated salt solution. Hydrated lime can be used but you want
> to use much less and add it in small doses over time since it can
> increase pH drastically. If the pH goes too high and you have a high
> fish load, you can kill or harm your fish because ammonia/ammonium
> becomes more toxic at high pH. I believe hydrated lime also typically
> contains magnesium but you have to read the label to discover the
> percentages & ratios.
> Steve

thanks steve... I woul not use any artificial stuff...this way I prevent
those problems you mention.

My problem, might not be because of calcium...but because I have to much
they are all ok...but plants are more delicate..

António Vitor

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