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Re: [APD] re: CO2 probe and in-line heater


20 pound sin 5-6 mos., isn't much diff than my 10 pounds
every 3 months and I have a much smaller aquarium. 

If you're only causing the water to ripple rather than
splash and bubble, I suspect that isn't having a big
impact.  I think that rippling the surface doesn't make
much diff; it's breaking the surface and mixing the air and
water (downspouts, drains, trickle chambers) that have the
big impacts on CO2 levels. Even without ripples, planted
tanks generally will have reasonably good watercirculation
(and maybe strong currents) so plenty of water has it's
turn at the water surface without or without rippling. 

Scott H.

--- David Grim <grim1214 at bellsouth_net> wrote:
> I have a 52 gallon covered sump for my 240 gallon tank,
> and I use a lot more
> CO2 than I would if I didn't, I believe. The tank is open
> top, and is
> drilled. I have done what I can to calm the flow of water
> into the overflows
> and into the sump. I also use a Dolphin 2100 Ampmaster
> return pump, which
> probably flows 800 gallons/hr after taking into acount
> the 1 inch return
> leading from the pump that tees to two 3/4" diameter
> return lines I use. I
> also purposely have a good bit of surface agitation since
> I have halide
> lighting and like the glimmer lines. So I know I have a
> lot of offgassing
> from the entire setup.
> I try to make up for it somewhat with twin Aqua-Medic
> 1000 reactors in the
> sump, each powered by a Rio 1700 submersible pump.
> I guess I burn thru a 20# CO2 tank every 5-6 months with
> the setup being
> like this. I'm sure it would last a lot longer if the
> tank used canister
> filtration vs a sump, was covered with glass tops, and
> had little or no
> surface agitation.
> My other three planted tanks use glass tops, cannister
> filtration, and have
> little surface agitation, and their controllers come on a
> lot less often
> than the one in the 240.
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