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[APD] Re: AquGoldfish as snail control (xicotenco)



But Scott, they're so cute with their little bellies all filled up.  LOL

--
Growing old is inevitable; 
growing up is optional.
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco) (AuntieFran at comcast_net)
>    2. Re: Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco) (S. Hieber)
>    3. Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?  (David Grim)
>    4. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
>       (BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com)
>    5. Re: Drilling for bulkheads (was bubbles) (Rod Gerrymander)
>    6. Re: Tank setup help (home66run)
>    7. Re: Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
>       (revance at indiana_edu)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 17:46:39 +0000
> From: AuntieFran at comcast_net
> Subject: [APD] Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> 
> I have two yoyo loaches that are moved regularly to any tank with those nasty 
> pond snails.  I leave them there for a few days after there are no visible 
> snails (to get any newly hatched buggers) and voila! snail free tanks (until I 
> carry more in on new plants.
> 
> --
> Growing old is inevitable; 
> growing up is optional.
> > Send Aquatic-Plants mailing list submissions to
> > 	aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> > 
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > 	http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > 	aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com
> > 
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > 	aquatic-plants-owner at actwin_com
> > 
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Aquatic-Plants digest..."
> > 
> > 
> > Today's Topics:
> > 
> >    1. Constant white haze (David Terrell)
> >    2. How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? (Rod Gerrymander)
> >    3. Re: Re: ich update (S. Hieber)
> >    4. Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> >    5. Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like some
> >       folks	it's not that bubbles show up but that they won't go away
> >       (S. Hieber)
> >    6. Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19 (Nwwise01 at aol_com)
> > 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Tue,  9 Mar 2004 09:28:49 -0500 (EST)
> > From: "David Terrell" <Dave at TerrellClan_com>
> > Subject: [APD] Constant white haze
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> > 
> > 
> > Ok guys, it's been a few weeks now, and even though I still can't seem
> > to get my CO2 levels up to where I'd like them, the PMDD Barr's style
> > seems to really be working well.
> > 
> > However, even after my plants got a foothold and the tank cleared way up
> > (~90% clear) it only got so far before stopping.  Now I constantly have
> > a white haze in the tank, slight but noticable.  I used my vortex last
> > night after getting my pump back and went to bed with crystal clear
> > water.  Now I don't necessarily expect the tank to stay that clear, but
> > I wouldn't think it's beyond reach since I have seen it that way in
> > the past, long before I owned a vortex.
> > 
> > Suggestions?
> > Thanks
> > -Dave T.
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> > 
> > A couple of days ago I setup my dream system.  It uses
> > two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> > gallon planted tank.
> > 
> > Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120 
> > gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had 
> > problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> > from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> > tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> > a day.
> > 
> > >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> > also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> > people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day, 
> > opposite schedule from the main tank.  This tank is
> > heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> > 
> > Finally it flows back into main tank.  This is lit 
> > by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> > Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these 
> > flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> > 
> > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > untreated.  I need a system that can go without 
> > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > going to make it.
> > 
> > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > them
> > and this was surprizingly uneffective.  With all the
> > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > inside the tubing.
> > 
> > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > siphons flowing?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:57:40 -0800 (PST)
> > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: Re: [APD] Re: ich update
> > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> > 
> > Reports seem to vary as to the size of the Ich critter
> > (anywhere from 10 microns to 100 microns and more). I think
> > that, to get down to as fine a micron level as you need to
> > filter out the waterborne-stage ich critters (a.k.a.
> > tomites) a canister would clog up much sooner than a couple
> > of weeks -- maybe before the day is over; maybe in a couple
> > of days. And as it clogs, it won't be turning over much
> > aquarum water. And if the filter doesn't turn over "all"
> > the water often enough, some Ichies will always escape
> > filtration. So you would need to change the material often.
> > 
> > The Ichies (a.k.a trophozoites) will mature, leave the fish
> > and settle in substrate (a.k.a. trophonts) and then
> > produdce producing tomites until each one has gone through
> > a full life cycle, which can be a couple of days to over a
> > week, depending on temps. Three days to a week should be
> > plenty long enough at tropical temps to filter out the
> > trophs and break the life cycle. But I think a conventional
> > canister filter, with a felt medium, is probably your least
> > practical method of breaking the cycle.
> > 
> > Scott H.
> > 
> > --- "Byron J. Yu" <Byronjyu at hotmail_com> wrote:
> > > Fundamentalist-type condemnations aside, I was thinking..
> > > I remember
> > > coralife makes these micron filter pads. Do you think it
> > > would be
> > > possible to stuff those in my eheim canister for a couple
> > > of weeks and
> > > filter the ick out?
> > 
> > 
> > =====
> > S. Hieber
> > 
> > -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> > Amano Returns
> > to the AGA Annual Convention
> > Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:24:59 -0800 (PST)
> > From: xicotenco <xicotenco at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] Goldfish as snail control
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> > 
> > Another great way to eradicate snail is by clown
> > loaches. I don't know if the rest of the loaches
> > family have develop test for snail to, my experience
> > is that no matter how hard is your snails infestation
> > 4 or 5 of them will take care of your snails prblem
> > and they will not touch your plants.
> > 
> > Saludos
> > Mario
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 07:39:01 -0800 (PST)
> > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: Re: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? -- or - Like
> > 	some folks	it's not that bubbles show up but that they won't go 
> > away
> > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> > 
> > Couple of thoughts:
> > 
> > A higher water flow will suck the bubbles out of the siphon
> > tube. 
> > 
> > You might be able to use a TOM's/Oscar Water Lifter pump to
> > suck the bubbles out of they accumulate enough stop the
> > siphon. This pump can work with air or water and is used,
> > e.g., on CPR overflows to prevent siphon loss -- in fact,
> > CPR recommends them.
> > 
> > Scott H.
> > --- Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com> wrote:
> > > A couple of days ago I setup my dream system.  It uses
> > > two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> > > gallon planted tank.
> > > 
> > > Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120 
> > > gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had 
> > > problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> > > from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> > > tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> > > a day.
> > > 
> > > >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> > > also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> > > people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day, 
> > > opposite schedule from the main tank.  This tank is
> > > heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> > > 
> > > Finally it flows back into main tank.  This is lit 
> > > by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> > > Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these 
> > > flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> > > 
> > > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > > untreated.  I need a system that can go without 
> > > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > > going to make it.
> > > 
> > > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > > them
> > > and this was surprizingly uneffective.  With all the
> > > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > > inside the tubing.
> > > 
> > > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > > siphons flowing?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rod
> > > 
> > > __________________________________
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > > http://search.yahoo.com
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > 
> > 
> > =====
> > S. Hieber
> > 
> > -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> > Amano Returns
> > to the AGA Annual Convention
> > Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 11:42:23 -0500
> > From: Nwwise01 at aol_com
> > Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 19
> > To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> > 
> > In a message dated 3/7/2004 9:03:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
> > aquatic-plants-request at actwin_com writes:
> > 
> > > Message: 7
> > > Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 16:08:47 -0800 (PST)
> > > From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> > > Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Peat in substrate -- Dirtless gravel 
> > > that's
> > >    replete without Peat
> > > To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> > > 
> > > I assume yo mena in the conventional sense and not for
> > > investment. ;-)
> > > 
> > > Mulm is known by the less technical terms "gunk," "crud on
> > > the bottom," and "messy brown stuff (aka, MBS)."
> > > 
> > > With an established aqaurium, you can get it from the
> > > floss/floss substitue medium in the canister filteraned
> > > from the sponge in any filter that uses a sponge. You can
> > > siphon it from the gravel. The accumulation of MBS is the
> > > reason one needs to vacuum occasionally; it is the essence
> > > of vacuuming's purpose.
> > > 
> > > If you vacuum with a python down the kitchen drain. Try
> > > running the hose into a bucket instead.
> > > 
> > > If you don't want to use all the water from vacuuming, let
> > > the water sit a little while and the bulk of the material
> > > will sink to the bottom. Then you can pour off most of the
> > > water without loosing are that hard earn MBS.
> > 
> > As a related side note:
> > 
> > If you have any house plants, use this water to water them.  It's better than 
> > Miracle Gro.  I also use it to feed my compost bins.
> > 
> > Nick Wise
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > 
> > 
> > End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> > *********************************************
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 10:03:50 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re:Goldfish as snail control (xicotenco)
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> You can soak new plants in lime water and save your yoyos
> all that back and forth -- yoyos are supposed to go up and
> down. ;-)
> 
> Scott H.
> --- AuntieFran at comcast_net wrote:
> > I have two yoyo loaches that are moved regularly to any
> > tank with those nasty pond snails. . .  voila! snail free
> tanks
> > (until I carry more in on new plants.
> 
> 
> =====
> S. Hieber
> 
> -  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
> Amano Returns
> to the AGA Annual Convention
> Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:58:55 -0500
> From: "David Grim" <grim1214 at bellsouth_net>
> Subject: [APD] Re: How do I avoid bubbles in siphons? 
> To: "Aquatic Plants Mailing List" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> Rod wrote:
> (snip)
> A couple of days ago I setup my dream system.  It uses
> two 20 gallon high tanks as bio-remediation for a 120
> gallon planted tank.
> 
> Water is pumped via a Fluval Stage 4 from the 120
> gallon tank into a 15 watt UV steralizer (I have had
> problems over the years with fish tuberculosis) and
> from there goes into the top 20 gallon tank, an algae
> tank with 72 watts of compact flourescents on 24 hours
> a day.
> 
> >From there it flows into the second 20 gallon tank,
> also 72 watts of compact flourescents (from AHS, great
> people to work with), lights on 12 hours a day,
> opposite schedule from the main tank.  This tank is
> heavily planted with Vallisneria species.
> 
> Finally it flows back into main tank.  This is lit
> by 12 48 inch t8s, currently 10.5 hours per day.
> Other than the trip thru the steralizer all these
> flows are by gravity via 1.25 inch ID tubes.
> 
> My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> untreated.  I need a system that can go without
> maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> going to make it.
> 
> I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> them
> and this was surprizingly uneffective.  With all the
> oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> inside the tubing.
> 
> Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> siphons flowing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Rod
> (snip)
> 
> Rod,
> That sounds like quite a setup, a lot like a reef algae filter with the 20
> gallon tanks on opposite light schedules .
> 
> You could do as Scott H. suggested and increase the flow rate thru the
> siphon tubes. I will assume you have the clear plastic "U" types. A high
> enough flow rate will clear the siphon tubes of any bubbles.
> 
> Another method reefers use is to plumb a check valve in at the very top of
> the siphon tube using silicone or acrylic cement, so the valve is sticking
> straight up from the bend, with the flow direction exiting the check valve
> from the tube. You then use a small (Rio 600 possible) powerhead placed in
> each of the 20s that has an air atttachment and connect the check valve to
> the powerhead. The powerhead draws the accumulated air bubbles and a bit of
> water thru the check valve continuously and keeps it clear. If you can find
> a powerhead with adjustable flow in addition to an airline attachment point
> all the better. It wouldn't take much pull to keep it clear. You might be
> able to do both siphon tubes with one powerhead if you controlled and
> balanced the suction with a 2 way gang valve.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 14:13:22 -0500
> From: BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com
> Subject: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> 
> > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> > 
> > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > untreated.  I need a system that can go without 
> > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > going to make it.
> > 
> > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > them
> > and this was surprizingly uneffective.  With all the
> > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > inside the tubing.
> > 
> > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > siphons flowing?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Rod
> 
> The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove them.
> 
> It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and install bulkheads for 
> overflows.  I did it for the first time a few months ago, and have done 
> several other tanks since then.
> 
> But, even bulkheads aren't 100% foolproof, especially in a planted tank 
> since leaves can clog them, but they're about 1000% better than siphons.
> 
> Bob AshcraftFrom romans837 at copper_net Tue Mar  9 14:14:20 2004
> Received: from nocmailsvc002.allthesites.org (host202.cisp.cc [65.196.203.202])
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> From: "Jason" <romans837 at copper_net>
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:13:51 -0600
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> <62979019FF040B40A72FD71B6D64549D03402573 at stlms060_accounts.root.corp>
> Subject: [APD] Tank setup help
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> 
> Here is my plan for my tank:
> 
> Here are the specs
> 
> 55 gal
> 36 x 18 x 22
> gH is 9
> Ph is 8.8+ ( straight tap I could go ro water )
> 
> Java fern, anubias, and hydro. Currently would like to get a Amazon
> Sword once a little more established.
> 
> Fish I like:
> 
> Clown Loaches
> Blue Gouramis
> Honey Gouramis
> Blue Botias
> Black Ruby Barb
> Betta
> Yellow Lab
> Sailfin Mollies
> 
> I am leaning towards clown loaches, honey gouramis, black ruby barb, the
> betta.
> 
> I really like the Yellow Labs but, I am hearing these may not be good on
> plants.
> 
> Help I can't figure out if this is a good mix or a bad one.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> romans837
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 11:35:42 -0800 (PST)
> From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> Subject: [APD] Re: Drilling for bulkheads (was bubbles)
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> I have drilled small holes in glass before using the
> spade-type bits and a drill press, but the bulkheads
> would require a hole in the glass that is about 1.5
> inches.  I don't even know where to get such a bit
> (advice appreciated).
> 
> Plus I would have to drill these tanks (at least the
> main tank) while it is setup, meaning holding the
> drill
> in my hand instead of a drill press, and the glass is
> under pressure from 100 gallons of water.  This seems
> just a little too freaky.
> 
> Thanks,
> Rod
> 
> > 
> > The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove
> > them.
> > 
> > It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and
> > install bulkheads for 
> > overflows.  I did it for the first time a few months
> > ago, and have done 
> > several other tanks since then.
> > 
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search - Find what you?re looking for faster
> http://search.yahoo.com
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 13:39:52 -0600
> From: "home66run" <home66run at neb_rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [APD] Tank setup help
> To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> I would think that a barb and a betta in the same tank would be a bad idea.
> 
> Thank you,
> Marshall
> 
> American Killie Association #08791
> Aquatic Gardeners Association
> International Betta Congress
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jason" <romans837 at copper_net>
> To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 1:13 PM
> Subject: [APD] Tank setup help
> 
> 
> > Here is my plan for my tank:
> > 
> > Here are the specs
> > 
> > 55 gal
> > 36 x 18 x 22
> > gH is 9
> > Ph is 8.8+ ( straight tap I could go ro water )
> > 
> > Java fern, anubias, and hydro. Currently would like to get a Amazon
> > Sword once a little more established.
> > 
> > Fish I like:
> > 
> > Clown Loaches
> > Blue Gouramis
> > Honey Gouramis
> > Blue Botias
> > Black Ruby Barb
> > Betta
> > Yellow Lab
> > Sailfin Mollies
> > 
> > I am leaning towards clown loaches, honey gouramis, black ruby barb, the
> > betta.
> > 
> > I really like the Yellow Labs but, I am hearing these may not be good on
> > plants.
> > 
> > Help I can't figure out if this is a good mix or a bad one.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > romans837
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue,  9 Mar 2004 14:41:40 -0500
> From: revance at indiana_edu
> Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 26
> To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> Adding a bulkhead works fine if you have an acrylic tank, those who have glass 
> aquariums... particularly tempered glass tanks, cannot (or rather SHOULD not) 
> drill holes. Drilling in glass is a big gamble. Yes it might look fine, but 
> the drilling process causes tiny fractures in the glass (probably not 
> visible). It left undisturbed, it might last beyond your lifetime, it might 
> last 10 years, it might last a month. IMHO I don't think it's worth the 
> risk... 120 gallons of water is a LOT of water, especially when on your floor. 
> If you figure MOST peoples sumps only hold a few gallons of water in them, the 
> worst thing that can happen if your siphon fails is those few gallons will 
> overflow onto the floor and you will probably burn up a pump. Yes a few 
> gallons is still terrible, but if the integrity of your tank fails, you end up 
> with much more water and you lose everything, not just a pump.
> 
> 
> Quoting BAshcraft at BrashearLP_com:
> 
> > > Date: Tue, 9 Mar 2004 06:42:14 -0800 (PST)
> > > From: Rod Gerrymander <rgerrymander at yahoo_com>
> > > Subject: [APD] How do I avoid bubbles in siphons?
> > > 
> > > My problem is that there is pearling going on in these
> > > tanks 24 hours a day somewhere and the siphons are
> > > getting bubbles in them which tend to collect at the
> > > highest point, with disatrous consequences if left
> > > untreated.  I need a system that can go without 
> > > maintenance a minimum of three weeks, and this is not
> > > going to make it.
> > > 
> > > I tried putting 90 degree U curves in the bottom of
> > > the siphons so that rising bubbles would not enter
> > > them
> > > and this was surprizingly uneffective.  With all the
> > > oxygen plus co2 in the water I'm not sure what these
> > > bubbles are, but they may even be rising spontaneously
> > > inside the tubing.
> > > 
> > > Does anybody have a suggestion for keeping these
> > > siphons flowing?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rod
> > 
> > The only way to make siphons foolproof is to remove them.
> > 
> > It's actually quite easy to drill the tanks and install bulkheads for 
> > overflows.  I did it for the first time a few months ago, and have done 
> > several other tanks since then.
> > 
> > But, even bulkheads aren't 100% foolproof, especially in a planted tank 
> > since leaves can clog them, but they're about 1000% better than siphons.
> > 
> > Bob Ashcraft
> > _______________________________________________
> > Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> > Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> > http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> 
> 
> End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 27
> *********************************************
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