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[APD] RE: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 20



I just set up a new tank last night and I am experiencing an extremely
high ph.  I have a master test kit and here is what
I have

Gh is 9
Ph is 8.8+ (this is using the high range test)

One thing I need to know is will this hurt the plants I have.  I got
java fern, hydrophilia, and anubias. 
Two this is way to high for the fish I am thinking of getting.  Most of
the fish I want are in the 6.5 to 8.0 range.

Any ideas on how to safely lower it without getting into chemical hell.


I have heard of using peat with a carbon filter is this a good way to
go?

Thanks,

Jas

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Subject: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 7, Issue 20


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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:Growing Glosso Update.  (Candy M.)
   2. Re: planting small foreground plants (Wright Huntley)
   3. Re: Strange nutrient absorption problem (S. Hieber)
   4. Re: Growing Glosso Update (Billinet at aol_com)
   5. Re: What is Malay fern? (Chuck H)
   6. Re: Growing Glosso Update (Byron Yu)
   7. Re: Growing Glosso Update (Andrew McLeod)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 20:13:44 -0600
From: "Candy M." <cry_little_sister at hotmail_com>
Subject: Re:[APD] Growing Glosso Update. 
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

The fish may develop a resistance to the ick but then they may not. IMHO

letting them die to get new fish is simply cruel especially if you
consider 
that the ick will still be in the tank waiting to jump on any fish you
toss 
in it as soon as they are stressed, simply buying new fish will cause 
stress... not to mention the ordeals they suffered before you got them.
If 
you don't have a sick tank then you don't have a quarantine tank so what

ever new fish you buy will risk adding even more possible problems to
the 
tank you don't want to treat. My suggestion is if you simply will not
set up 
a sick/quarantine tank is to buy a plastic container to treat them in.

While the plants are the focus of my tanks, I am still a soft touch with

living creatures sorry if the above offends you.

As far as the algae eaters, you can supplement their diet with blanched 
vegetables like zucchini, cucumber, green beans etc.

Candy

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 21:52:10 -0800
From: Wright Huntley <whuntley at verizon_net>
Subject: Re: [APD] planting small foreground plants
To: Aquatic Plants Digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Shireen,

> From: Shireen Gonzaga <whimbrel at comcast_net>
> Subject: [APD] planting small foreground plants
> To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
> Cc: Shireen Gonzaga <whimbrel at comcast_net>
> 
> Hi ... I've been having a hard time planting small foreground plants
> like glosso because my fish keep uprooting them! Does anyone have 
> creative ideas on how to secure them till a good root system has been 
> established? The culprits are mostly flagfish, and I think some of the

> Aphyosemion australe are doing it too.
> 
> Thanks,
>    shireen

Have you been feeding them plenty of veggies? *J. floridae* will consume

impressive amounts of microwave-blanced zucchini ends and similar foods.

[Failure to provide them will force the fish to go for the easier 
plants, as algae is just minor snack food to them.]

The blanching in a bit of water drives out much of the air, and you can 
squeeze the rest out. That softens and lets the veggies sink and stay 
down where the fish can pick at them easier.

Pupfish, like the American-Flag Fish, are primarily vegetarians and they

are just doin' what comes "natural." :-) I vaguely recall that they also

like some sinking pellets as made for pl*ckos.

For securing small, fine plants, it is hard to beat wrapping in a fine 
hairnet (that can include a stone, if needed).

Wright

-- 
Wright Huntley - Rt. 001 Box K36, Bishop CA 93514 - whuntley at verizon_net
                     760 872-3995

"Do we really think that a government-dominated education is going to 
produce citizens capable of dominating their government, as the 
education of a truly vigilant self-governing people requires?" [Alan
Keyes]


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 03:18:22 -0800 (PST)
From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] Strange nutrient absorption problem
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

First, be sure that your nitrate tests are giving accurate readings. Do
yo have any corroboration from other testing?

If you have a high fish load, it's not hard to be adding
enough nitrates from the fish food that no suppplementation
is necessary even if there is virtually no nitrates coming
in via the tap water.

If fish food is your only source of nitrates bringin your
up over about 5-10 ppm, then adjust your water change
amounts or schedule to bring the nitrtes back down in to
that range. Cleaning your mechanical filtration media more often can
also help. Also long as the detritus in inthe water system, it continues
to add to the nitrates in the water.

Sounds like a lot of potassium to me. You add in one dose
about twice what I do all week with 50% water changes
weekly.

I'd like to measure the ortho-phosphates to see if you need
to add as much as you are adding. try to target your
phosphates for a level about one tenth you nitrate level (0.5-1.0 ppm).

Adding plant food sticks to the substrate can give a plant
a big boost but it can easily diffuse into the water column
and might be a major source of your water column nitrates.

Scott H.

--- Kevin Sheller <kevmo at arenafan_com> wrote:
> I'm having some problems. Here's some stats before we get
> to the problem...
> 
> 75 Gallon
> 1 year and 1 month old
> 192 watts of standard fluorescents (two 3-bulb T8 hoods -
> I haven't changed
> the bulbs yet)
> Medium-high fish load (12 large rainbows, 4 rosey barbs, standard 
> algae
> crew)
> PH: 6.6 - 6.8 (canister CO2 -- haven't had to refill it
> yet)
> Nitrate: 17.6 ppm (I don't add any extra)
> Iron & Traces: TMG, 2-3 x per week
> Potassium: 1 teaspoon potassium sulfate, 2-3 times per
> week
> Phosphate: 1/8 teaspoon mono potassium phosphate 2-3
> times per week
> Water changes: 40% once a week
> 
> Plants: lots of the clover groundcover stuff (not glossostigma, the
> slower-growing, dark green stuff) Madagascar lace,
> apontageton ulvacius
> (which isn't growing well without jobe's sticks) lots of
> dwarf sag, some
> crypts, rotala macrandra (another that needs jobe's
> sticks) rotala
> rotundifolia, anubias barteri, giant hygro (which has
> just stopped growing
> altogether - not pinhole leaves - just stopped growing.)
> 
> Problems: Plants don't seem to be absorbing the nitrate
> much. I don't have
> to add any, and it still seems to go up over time. Not as much 
> pearling as I used to have. The plants don't do as well unless I
> supplement with jobe's
> sticks... Today I'm starting to get a bloom (bacteria or
> algae - not sure
> which yet). The plants need SOMETHING they aren't
> getting, but I can't
> figure out what.
> 
> Kevmo
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com 
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants


=====
S. Hieber

-  -   -   -   -   -   -   -
Amano Returns
to the AGA Annual Convention
Nov 12, 13 & 14, 2004 -- Crystal City, Virginia

__________________________________
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 07:59:16 -0500
From: Billinet at aol_com
Subject: [APD] Re: Growing Glosso Update
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

For the ich problem, I suggest that you increase the temperature to the
low 90's for a few days.  That has always worked for me, on those few
occasions that I've had to deal with it.

You have 6.5 watts per gallon!  That alone might be sufficient to raise
the temperature to the 90's.  I wonder if that enormous amount of light
could have stressed the fish to the extent that ich could wage a
successful attack.

Others here know more about light and most other plants things than I
do, but I think if you so much as look at your tank the wrong way you
will have a mess on your hands.  Maybe think about cutting back on the
light?

Bill



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 09:14:37 -0500
From: "Chuck H" <grendel at usit_net>
Subject: [APD] Re: What is Malay fern?
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

Seweryn wrote:

> Anyone have any ideas of what it is? Have not found any info on it 
> searching through the web. Looks almost like branches from a short 
> pine tree mixed with compact, interlocked fern leaves.

Is this an aquatic fern?  I know of a fern that is fairly popular 
among some herp hobbyists called Malaysian Fern, but it's a terrarium 
plant that would not enjoy being submerged.



> While I am firing off questions, anyone know if a dechlorifier states 
> that it will neutralise heavy metals in the water, would it bind 
> certain constituents of PMDD?

I wouldn't worry about it.  These types of dechlor generally only 
sequester a very small amount of metal, and just because a metal is 
bound does not necessarily make it unavailable to the plants.  Some 
(all?) metals in trace ferts are already bound by chelators so that 
they stay in solution longer (e.g., iron EDTA).
--
Chuck Huffine
Knoxville, Tennessee


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:46:16 -0500
From: "Byron Yu" <byronjyu at hotmail_com>
Subject: [APD] Re: Growing Glosso Update
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Hi guys,

Bill wrote:
>You have 6.5 watts per gallon!  That alone might be sufficient to raise

>the temperature to the 90's.  I wonder if that enormous amount of light

>>could have stressed the fish to the extent that ich could wage a 
>successful attack. Others here know more about light and most other 
>plants things than I do, but I think if you so much as look at your 
>tank the wrong way you will >have a mess on your hands.  Maybe think 
>about cutting back on the light?

You should read this article... http://www.fitchfamily.com/lighting.html
It's a different approach to lighting and kind of throws aways that old
3 watt/gallon rule. I believe in the theory cause when i only had 65
watts on my 20 gallon, my red plants were not turning red. I admit, even
based on that article i am still a bit on the high side of lighting, but
the plants are gorgeous, and the heat is controlled cause the lighting
source is 2 power compacts that have a fans on them. Besides, i think
the fish got ick not through stress, but through the introduction of
some new fish that had ick on them. 

which brings my to Candy's comment.I know i should have a
sick/quarantine tank.i may get one yet.. but i'm just "fishing" for
other suggestions. Turning up the heat to 85 degrees sounds like a plan,
but i'm afraid my plants can't handle that. I believe my cyperus herefi
and lace plants don't like high temps. I don't want to be cruel, but my
plants and shrimps are all important. From revance at indiana_edu Mon Mar
8 10:09:59 2004
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Date: Mon,  8 Mar 2004 10:09:56 -0500
From: revance at indiana_edu
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Growing Glosso Update
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I wouldn't imagine your plants would suffer too much from high
temperatures 
for a couple days. Many people with planted discus tanks keep their
temps in 
the mid to upper 80s all the time. I have also heard that raising the
salinity 
of your water with aquarium salt in addition to raising the temperature
is 
another way to eliminate ich... I tried it once and it seemed to do the
job 
(however, it wasn't a planted tank I did it on).  Good luck



Quoting Byron Yu <byronjyu at hotmail_com>:

> Hi guys,
> 
> Bill wrote:
> >You have 6.5 watts per gallon!  That alone might be sufficient to 
> >raise the
> temperature to the 90's.  I wonder if that enormous amount of light 
> >could have stressed the fish to the extent that ich could wage a 
> successful attack.
> >Others here know more about light and most other plants things than I

> >do,
> but I think if you so much as look at your tank the wrong way you will

> >have a mess on your hands.  Maybe think about cutting back on the 
> light?
> 
> You should read this article... 
> http://www.fitchfamily.com/lighting.html
> It's a different approach to lighting and kind of throws aways that 
> old 3 watt/gallon rule. I believe in the theory cause when i only had 
> 65 watts on my 20 gallon, my red plants were not turning red. I admit,

> even based on that article i am still a bit on the high side of 
> lighting, but the plants are gorgeous, and the heat is controlled 
> cause the lighting source is 2 power compacts that have a fans on 
> them. Besides, i think the fish got ick not through stress, but 
> through the introduction of some new fish that had ick on them.
> 
> which brings my to Candy's comment.I know i should have a 
> sick/quarantine tank.i may get one yet.. but i'm just "fishing" for 
> other suggestions. Turning up the heat to 85 degrees sounds like a 
> plan, but i'm afraid my plants can't handle that. I believe my cyperus

> herefi and lace plants don't like high temps. I don't want to be 
> cruel, but my plants and shrimps are all important. 
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com 
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
> 
> 
> 



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 16:13:09 -0000
From: Andrew McLeod <thefish at theabyssalplain_freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: [APD] Re: Growing Glosso Update
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 09:46:16 -0500, Byron Yu <byronjyu at hotmail_com>
wrote:

If you look at the chart on the www.fitchfamily.com/lighting.html page, 
you see that over the 'typical' range of a planted tank (say 20-100 
gallons) the WPG rule (the red line) is not a terrible indicator of the 
lighting used by Amano, and the V^(2/3) fit (green line) is possibly
even 
better than the purple fit suggested (and works for larger tanks as
well). 
Maybe I'll try it on the data given in the AGA contest...

Just saying that the data is open to wide interpretation...

> Hi guys,
>
> Bill wrote:
>> You have 6.5 watts per gallon!  That alone might be sufficient to 
>> raise
>> the temperature to the 90's.  I wonder if that enormous amount of
light 
>> >could have stressed the fish to the extent that ich could wage a
>> successful attack.
>> Others here know more about light and most other plants things than I
>> do, but I think if you so much as look at your tank the wrong way you

>> will >have a mess on your hands.  Maybe think about cutting back on
the 
>> light?
>
> You should read this article... 
> http://www.fitchfamily.com/lighting.html
> It's a different approach to lighting and kind of throws aways that 
> old
> 3 watt/gallon rule. I believe in the theory cause when i only had 65 
> watts on my 20 gallon, my red plants were not turning red. I admit,
even 
> based on that article i am still a bit on the high side of lighting,
but 
> the plants are gorgeous, and the heat is controlled cause the lighting

> source is 2 power compacts that have a fans on them. Besides, i think 
> the fish got ick not through stress, but through the introduction of 
> some new fish that had ick on them.
>
> which brings my to Candy's comment.I know i should have a
> sick/quarantine tank.i may get one yet.. but i'm just "fishing" for 
> other suggestions. Turning up the heat to 85 degrees sounds like a
plan, 
> but i'm afraid my plants can't handle that. I believe my cyperus
herefi 
> and lace plants don't like high temps. I don't want to be cruel, but
my 
> plants and shrimps are all important.
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants

-- 
Andrew McLeod
thefish at theabyssalplain_freeserve.co.uk

This email was scanned carefully before transmission to remove any 
content, information or relevance.

------------------------------

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