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[APD] SV: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2,Issue 52( hey there from denmark)



Hey all you aqua plant folks,
I have a simple question for you, I have seen so many beautiful aquariums,
where a planting plan has ben used. Any of you that now a good book the
treats this? Or a good website to look up for me? I have aqua scaped for
about 5 years but it would be nice with some fresh input. :-)

Bed regards,

Sergej

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
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Sendt: 26. oktober 2003 09:12
Til: aquatic-plants at actwin_com
Emne: Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 52

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Today's Topics:

   1. Flowering Anubias barteri (J Miller)
   2. RE: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (David Nesom)
   3. Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests (Wright Huntley)
   4. Yellowing of leaves (e. tenellus (David Nesom)
   5. RE: Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests (Phil Bunch)
   6. Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (S. Hieber)
   7. Re: Akadama (Dave Gomberg)
   8. surface green slime algae  (piaba)
   9. Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium? (Clint Brearley)
  10. Apo. undulatus bleaching (Seweryn Bialasiewicz)
  11. Re:Algae Eating Shrimp Eating  (Billionzz at aol_com)
  12. Re: Re: Akadama (guillaume)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:06:49 -0700
From: "J Miller" <jvision at telus_net>
Subject: [APD] Flowering Anubias barteri
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Cc: Steve Pushak <teban at powersonic_bc.ca>

  A few weeks ago, I noticed that my Anubias barteri was putting up a flower
stock - Great!  Well now, it's open, except it's still about 6" underwater.
I thought the whole point of a flower was to get above the water.  Of
course, I have absolutely no experience w. this speceis (have had Apon's
flower many times).
  So what is the protocall now?  It's a white 'flower pod' coming out of a
cup-shaped leaf.  I am planning on just doing nothing and seeing what
happens, but if there is anything else that I could be doing to maybe
propigate it, please let me know.

Thanks

Jason Miller


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:11:06 -0400
From: "David Nesom" <david at nesom_net>
Subject: RE: [APD] Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
To: "'aquatic plants digest'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>



Dwight Wrote:

> "I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in planted aquaria
> w/o the coresponding waste of Co2?"

A while back I was looking at an Eheim 2227 canister w/built in wet dry. I
haven't purchased this because I just don't have the money right now and
it's a want not a need. Nonetheless, I think this might be worth a look for
you. I haven't used the filter personally but it appears as though the
wet/dry is enclosed within the canister assembly and *probably* wouldn't
lose too much co2? Especially if your reactor is on the output side of the
canister.

Personally, I'd like to try this filter for myself as I was considering
removing the biowheels from my tank. (for aesthetic purposes only--I
currently only use about one 10# co2 bottle per year with the wet/dry which
I find acceptable...) I carry a pretty heavy fish load though and am
concerned about removing the biowheels without a suitable replacement.

Hope this helps,

Dave


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 10:31:09 -0700
From: Wright Huntley <whuntley at verizon_net>
Subject: [APD] Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
To: Aquatic PlantsDigest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

AFAIK, none of the modern chloramine "removers" can be used with any 
Nesler's-reagent ammonia test. All will give false positives, I think. 
[See the "Amquel" literature for details.]

Try the same test using a salycilate ammonium test and see if 
ammonia/ammonium isn't below detectable levels.

2ppm of ammonia is deadly to nearly any fish. Just be sure your pH is 
low until you have an answer, so most of it is as NH4, if it is really 
there. [I suspect it isn't.]

**************
A small side issue: Nesler-reagent tests are not nearly sensitive enough 
to tell you when potentially lethal amounts of ammonia (0.01 ppm) are 
present, but they are a particularly nasty environmental hazard. Don't 
throw that mercury compound down the drain, but dispose of it properly 
at your local recycling center. OK?
*************

Wright

> Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2003 17:21:01 -0700
> From: Phil Bunch <pbunch at cox_net>
> Subject: [APD] Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
> To: "'aquatic-plants at actwin_com'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
> 
> Can using Ammo Lock cause artificially high ammonia tests? I understand 
> that it causes the NH3 to be converted to NH4 and hence tests may not 
> decline immediately. My ammonia test this afternoon reads 2 ppm which is 
> causing me some concern even though the ions should all be in the NH4
from. 
> The fish show no signs of distress,  they have very good color, no gill 
> rubbing and no other symptoms. Also nitrite is testing at or very near 
> zero. The water smells good. I'm going to do a 50% water change and add 
> some Bio-spira.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Phil Bunch


-- 
Wright Huntley -- 760 872-3995 -- Rt. 001 Box K36, Bishop CA 93514

            Mencken's maxim?every election is a sort
              of advanced auction of stolen goods.




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 13:37:49 -0400
From: "David Nesom" <david at nesom_net>
Subject: [APD] Yellowing of leaves (e. tenellus
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

In my 72G over the last two weeks I have had some problems with only a small
section (6 square inches or so) of e. tenellus. This started when I uprooted
some crypts right in that area of the tank. I think there may have been a
flourish tab under the crypts that got broken up and released into the water
column.

Anyway, first, the leaves of only the e. tenellus got covered in algae only
in that area. After about a week of this the older leaves started to yellow
and now they're falling off at an alarming rate. I have vacuumed the gravel
in the area several times and done a few 30% percent water changes  in the
past few weeks but am noticing no improvement yet. Any ideas on what could
have caused this  and some corrective measures? I find it odd this is
isolated to this small are of the tank...

Water parameters currently:

ph: 6.7
kh: 5 dkh
gh: 3 dgh
nitrates: 2ppm
Fe: undetectable

Thanks,

Dave


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:29:42 -0700
From: Phil Bunch <pbunch at cox_net>
Subject: RE: [APD] Re: Ammo Lock and Ammonia Tests
To: "'aquatic plants digest'" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Cc: "'african_cichlids at yahoogroups_com'"
	<african_cichlids at yahoogroups_com>

Wright:

It turns out that the kit I'm using is a salicylate reagent product 
(Aquarium Pharmaceuticals). It however indicts that it tests for both NH3 
and NH4. It also indicates that "Ammonia test kits will still test positive 
for ammonia..." even when Ammo Lock is used. I suspect the ammonia is all 
in the NH4 form or as you say the fish would be dead or totally stressed. 
It may be that I will just have to wait for the NH4 to be processed through 
the bio-filter.
Phil Bunch

On Saturday, October 25, 2003 10:31, Wright Huntley 
[SMTP:whuntley at verizon_net] wrote:
>AFAIK, none of the modern chloramine "removers" can be used with any
Nesler's-reagent ammonia test. All will give false positives, I think.
[See the "Amquel" literature for details.]

Try the same test using a salycilate ammonium test and see if
ammonia/ammonium isn't below detectable levels.

2ppm of ammonia is deadly to nearly any fish. Just be sure your pH is
low until you have an answer, so most of it is as NH4, if it is really
there. [I suspect it isn't.]

**************
A small side issue: Nesler-reagent tests are not nearly sensitive enough
to tell you when potentially lethal amounts of ammonia (0.01 ppm) are
present, but they are a particularly nasty environmental hazard. Don't
throw that mercury compound down the drain, but dispose of it properly
at your local recycling center. OK?
*************

Wright<



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 12:37:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
Subject: Re: [APD] Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
To: aquatic plants digest <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

Yove too cover the bio chamber and the overflow too if it's
a box type rather than a built-in. 

You'll still get plenty of O2 for the bacteria and from my
experience, about double your CO2 use.

I believe George Booth still has data posted on his web
site with meaurements with and without a wet-dry.

http://aquaticconcepts.thekrib.com/

You might have to search around, but it's a nice site to
wander around on.

Scott H.
--- Dwight <boukmn at mindspring_com> wrote:
> I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in
> planted aquaria w/o the
> coresponding waste of Co2?  As I understand it, by their
> very nature W.D.
> filters  will vent Co2 gas to the atmosphere. 

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------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 13:55:33 -0700
From: Dave Gomberg <dave1 at wcf_com>
Subject: [APD] Re: Akadama
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

At 09:07 AM 10/25/2003, "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr> wrote:
>i want to know if i can use Akadama (clay bonsaï soil) for my substrate:

Bill, Akadama and Profile (Turface) are nearly identical.   The Profile is 
a little harder fired, not quite as soft and crumbly.   Akadama is very 
expensive here.   What do you pay in FR?  Here Turface is about 7
Euros/22Kg. 



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 14:27:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: piaba <piabinha at yahoo_com>
Subject: [APD] surface green slime algae 
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

does anyone know what the surface green slime algae is
and how to get rid of it?


tsuh yang

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Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 10:04:27 +1100
From: Clint Brearley <clint_brearley at telstra_com>
Subject: [APD] Re: Wet Dry Filtration in a Planted Aquarium?
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com


Well, if the plants are growing well, the water coming into the filter will
be saturated with oxygen (and the O2 *needs* to be dissolved for the
bacteria to be able to utilise it). But the limiting nutrient for the
bacterial population size would be ammonia anyway, not oxygen. In fact for
any sort of biological filter, theoretically, oxygen and surface area for
bacterial attachment only need to be in slight excess of the ammonia supply
for the filter to function effectively. The extra surface area and oxygen
offered by a conventional wet-dry just adds extra redundancy to the system.
Of course if you continually increase your bioload (gradually), you increase
ammonia supply, and eventually either oxygen or surface area will be the
limiting factor and you end up with accumulation of detectable levels of
ammonia and/or nitrite. However, it gets more complicated in a planted tank
cause plants use up the ammonia as well.

So in a CO2-injected planted tank, a wet-dry may not offer the same benefits
as in a fish only tank, the extra biological filtration capacity is probably
not needed anyway. High fish loads would probably result in severe algae
outbreak long before ammonia accumulation became a problem. But they do have
other benefits (hiding equipment etc) which a lot of people like. As for
sealing them, well I don't think lack of gas transfer with the air would be
a major problem for a plant tank. At the end of the day it comes down to the
opinion of the individual aquarist. CO2 gas is cheap, but having to refil
regularly can be annoying so sealing the wet-dry can be an attractive option
to some.

Clint Brearley
Melbourne, Australia

> I am curious ...how can Wet Dry filters be used in planted aquaria 
> w/o the
> coresponding waste of Co2?  As I understand it, by their very 
> nature W.D.
> filters  will vent Co2 gas to the atmosphere.  In order to grow 
> the massive
> bacterial colonies that make WDs more effective, there needs to be 
> mixingwith outside oxygen at the high surface area filtration 
> medium.  This is
> where Co2 loss takes place.  
> 
> Assuming you somehow encase this part of the filtration chamber 
> from the
> outside air, how do you maintain high bacteria counts to keep the WD
> effective?  In a sealed chamber, is it not logical to assume there 
> will be
> a coresponding massive drop in bacterial growth to levels more 
> akin to
> those of a canister filter since there is no longer oxygen enrichment
> taking place?  If this is the case, I don't see why castrating a 
> WD to get
> it to work w/ Co2 injection is true progress.
> 
> As I understand it, only by injecting enriched oxygen into a 
> sealed WD
> chamber can one hope to maximize WD filtration and not waste Co2.  
> Comments?


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------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 23:24:35 +0000
From: "Seweryn Bialasiewicz" <s_bialasiewicz at hotmail_com>
Subject: [APD] Apo. undulatus bleaching
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com


Hello all,

Quick question about the bleach treatment. Can Apo. undulatus stand the 
standard 1/20 bleach solution dip? Say.. 2 minutes? Also, when I plant it, 
should I leave most of the tuber exposed?
Cheers,

- Seweryn

PS- cloudy milky water is now definitley green.

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------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2003 22:08:34 EDT
From: Billionzz at aol_com
Subject: [APD] Re:Algae Eating Shrimp Eating 
To: aquatic-plants at actwin_com

>>>I wonder at what size they start breeding.  I would love to breed them
and 
release them to my main display tank.<<<

 The females seem to start holding eggs when they are a deep red and a thick

3/4'' in length.

 I don't do any thing special they just seem to breed very easy. I do add a 
drop of iodine used for marine tanks at each water change. I don't really
know 
if this helps but it was suggested to me and I figured it couldn't hurt. 

------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2003 09:05:13 +0100
From: "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr>
Subject: Re: [APD] Re: Akadama
To: "aquatic plants digest" <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>

hi, Dave
in france we don't have any Turface or Profile so it's because that i want
to use Akadama(i have a rest, approximatively 500Gr and the Akadama i have,
don't break in water(i have tested ;) )
in france some people try kitty litter but some have problem with hardness
and ph value(it drop dramaticly!!!)
in france Akadama is about 12 euros 10kg it depend on the quality(soft or
hard)!
and for my own micronutrients mix when compounds are dissolved in distilled
water, what is the shelf life of the Solution???
Will
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Gomberg" <dave1 at wcf_com>
To: <aquatic-plants at actwin_com>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:55 PM
Subject: [APD] Re: Akadama


> At 09:07 AM 10/25/2003, "guillaume" <kerry_gui at free.fr> wrote:
> >i want to know if i can use Akadama (clay bonsaï soil) for my substrate:
>
> Bill, Akadama and Profile (Turface) are nearly identical.   The Profile is
> a little harder fired, not quite as soft and crumbly.   Akadama is very
> expensive here.   What do you pay in FR?  Here Turface is about 7
Euros/22Kg.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Aquatic-Plants mailing list
> Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com
> http://www.actwin.com/mailman/listinfo.cgi/aquatic-plants
>


------------------------------

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End of Aquatic-Plants Digest, Vol 2, Issue 52
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