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Re: Check valve
- To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
- Subject: Re: Check valve
- From: Thomas Barr <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
- Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2003 02:29:29 -0400
- In-reply-to: <200306011104.h51B4jX4030603@otter.actwin.com>
- User-agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
> Hi Tom, thanks for replying. I went from an external CO2 reactor to an
> internal due to multiple problems. The reactor worked fine, it was just the
> associated issues that drove me nuts.
> 1. The external seemed to get gunk in it frequently and for some reason, I
> had to replace the hoses every time I cleaned it. They worked fine until I
> pulled a hose off one of the barbs, then every connection leaked whether I
> had pulled it apart or not.
You could use a small sponge prefilter easy and this would not effect the
CO2 gas intake if you use the powerhead etc for the CO2 gas inlet.
Some folks use and in line apporach with a canister filter.
Bio balls are designed to still continue facilitate gas exchange and
maximize water flow even with gunk.
Often a couple of good shakes of the tube with out any removal will loosen
most of the gunk.
I just remove it and clean the tube but I've never had the tubing leak
after. Leaving a little space when you cut the tubing between the elbow
connections will give some extra room to push the tubing back in a bit
further next time and the tubing shape will mould back.
Tubing is fairly cheap, but using silicone tubing will last for many years
and snap back into shape right away. Med supply/some Home improvement places
sell it, it's nice.
> 2. Because of my stand design (hood and lower stand are one giant piece),
> the reactor had to go under the tank which forced me to use a rather large
> power head that along with two big hoses(input/output)was unsightly.
Yuck. What about in line with the filtration system?
> 3. As a result of the one piece stand issue, every time I had to take the
> reactor out to clean it, I flooded under my stand.
In line with the filter then.
> The internal comes completely apart to clean and I can use a tiny powerhead.
> I can shove them both down in the very back of my tank and all I have at the
> top to hide is a power cord and a CO2 line. It is actually easier to hide
> as odd as that probably sounds.
No, not really as you describe.
> I had never used a check valve after the bubble counter until I found water
> in my stand ha, ha. The CO2 input is actually on the reactor in this
> situation versus feeding it into the power head before.
All internals are like that(or should be).
They should have a bubble counter in them also(or should). You should not
really need a check valve with an internal either. Make a drip loop about 2"
above the surface of the water with the gas line.
> The check valve I removed was an old Whisper one I bought 20 years ago and
> used with my air pump.
You should do okay with this but see how well the CO2 does. My experience
and that of several others with this internal(Does it have the spiral bubble
path?) is that is has trouble with larger tanks dissolving enough CO2.
If the CO2 reactor is one of mine, you can swap it(I have internals also) or
have a modified one to suit your needs(sump, canister, independent with
powerhead, internal) for free.