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Re: Anubias and slower growing tanks

> Tom, Paul & Roger: From your answers (thank you) I conclude that I should up
> my PO4 level and also increase the Traces in the tank to reduce the green spot
> algea. K, I'll try that n' see what happens.
> I'll also cut a leaf to see what effect i has. The Anubia in the picture is
> putting out about one leaf, every or every second month currently.
> //Greger

Well if you want to put it all together and make a tank that will have no
problems for this plant genus:
Lower lighting, not more than 2w/gal(1.5-1.8w/gal), low fish load, lots of
herbivores, otto, small pleco's, shrimps, deep porous iron rich substrate,
weekly water changes with once a week dosing(Normal routine except once a
week instead of 2-3x a week), lots of taller crypts to shade the plants a
little. This will give good growth rates, not max rates, but good rates with
little if any algae.

This also makes a great tank for most crypts also. And it's a low
maintenance CO2 enriched tank. Once a week routine, feed fish and that's
about it. Slower growing plants with lower lighting. Algae also grows slower
and the herbivores can keep up.

I wish more folks would try out the lower ranges of CO2 enriched tanks. They
are quite rewarding and require less algae control measures. There are many
species of Crypts, ferns and Anubias, all of which tend to be worth more $$$
than fast growing stem plants.

It's sort of a blend between and non carbon enriched tank(lower light/deep
substrate) and a CO2 enriched tank(Dosing but only after a water change-none
during the week and CO2: 20-30ppm).

I think overall, that gives the most freedom with growing different species,
having healthy growth that grows slow enough not to need frequent prunings,
Things are not too bad if you don't do the water change(but still need to
dose for the week). Algae issues are milder.

I suppose I will try using the plant agar method on a number of tanks like
this. Then the dosing/water changes might not be an issue(s).

Tom Barr