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Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V5 #463
Dec.4, 2002.
Dear APD Members:
I had posted a querry on Nov. 22, 2002, regarding my
Myriophyllum Plant Dis-coloration.
But regretfully, I have not received a single help. I
have been scanning every day, but no luck !!
I am re-writing the same again, with the hope that
some of you could possibly suggest.
I look forward to your reply, either on this site or
directly to my mail box: alpi101 at yahoo_com,
alpi at satyam_net.in.
Thanks & regards,
Sunil Baboo
Copy: as follows:
Dear All:
I am having some problem with my plants.
1. Myriophyllum Aquaticum (Green)
2. Myriophyllum Tuberculatum (red)
When I planted the above, both had perfectly bright
colors respectively. But despite good growth, both
are now kind of dirty brown.
I am using Pottassium Sulphate (1/4 tsp) every day,
KNO3 every alternate day, and Micro Nutrients (2 ml),
and Fe (1/2 ml) per day. I have pressurized CO2
delivery through a reactor. Lighting is about 144
watts (4 X 36 Watts CFLs). Tank capacity is abou 200
Lts.
All other plants are doing fine, but the above.
There are NO FISHES in the Tank.
Pls suggest what I should do to get their original
colors back.
Thanks & regards,
Sunil Baboo.
--- Aquatic Plants Digest
<Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com> wrote:
>
> Aquatic Plants Digest Tuesday, December 3 2002
> Volume 05 : Number 463
>
>
>
> In this issue:
>
> Re: UPS as backup power
> Metal Halides In Australia
> Re: Big regulator problem - urgent
> Re: screw in cf bulbs & Retina Burners
> UndergraverHeater
> Re: Oxalate standard electrode potential
> Re: 60$ test kits
> Re: Marine planted tanks
> Re: Marine planted tanks
> RE: Stored Nutrients
> Re: oxalic acid
> Re: Metal Halides In Australia
> Re: breeding fish in planted tanks
> Re: UndergraverHeater
> Re: Marine Plants
> Re: Metal Halides In Australia
> It's not easy being green...
> Under gravel heater
> Plant ID
> Re: Update on 25 Gallon Tank
> Re: Aquatic Plants Digest V5 #462
> Red lined SAE
> Re: Marine plants
>
> See the end of the digest for information on
> unsubscribing from the
> Aquatic Plants mailing list and on how to retrieve
> back issues.
>
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 12:21:03 +0200
> From: Vallo Kallaste <kalts at estpak_ee>
> Subject: Re: UPS as backup power
>
> On Mon, Dec 02, 2002 at 04:49:21PM -0500, Giancarlo
> <gp at isaconsulting_com> wrote:
>
> [snip]
> > My second test was more successful, the unit ran
> the filter alone for 12
> > hours before I gave up waiting for the thing to
> die and stopped the test
> > myself and whent to bed. In all I think it's safe
> to say that even these
> > cheap units can do a good job at keeping several
> filters running during
> > blackouts. My tanks are all in the house and we
> rarely have a temperature
> > problem during blackouts so this works for me. I'm
> not sure how to calculate
> > temperature loss of a tank, perhaps that would
> allow me to see just how long
> > my tanks can go without heating during the
> different seasons but at least I
> > know my bacteria buddies should be OK.
>
> The centrifugal pumps in the filters are rated at
> ~10-20W, so this
> isn't surprise to me at least. Glad you gave it a
> try, I was also
> concerned about cheap UPS's output waveform. Because
> blackout is,
> umm, blackout.. you can always quickly thermally
> isolate the tank
> from environment and it'll take a while then before
> temperature gets
> down to hazardous values. Water thermal capacity is
> quite good.
> - --
>
> Vallo Kallaste
> kalts at estpak_ee
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 21:37:38 +1100
> From: "Adam Shaw" <adams1 at comcen_com.au>
> Subject: Metal Halides In Australia
>
> G'day all,
>
> Anyone out there have any experience using the
> Dalbarb Metal Halide
> lights? (They're a brand marketed here in Australia,
> I think they are an
> Australian brand).
>
> How good are they? They're fairly pricey - the best
> I could find was
> around the $500AUD mark for a 150W double ended
> version (5200K or
> 10000K). How much heat do they produce? Apparently
> they have a remote
> ballast...
>
> Any info / opinions would be welcomed. Perhaps
> off-post for fear of
> getting APD into another legal battle or being sued
> by the company :)
> Seems no-one wants anything bad said about their
> products these days -
> only good. Fair enough if I was the company.. Haha
>
> Cheers,
>
> Adam Shaw
> Australia
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 03:40:52 -0800 (PST)
> From: "S. Hieber" <shieber at yahoo_com>
> Subject: Re: Big regulator problem - urgent
>
> Cavan has a CO2 dump problem:
>
> What kind of regulator do you?
> Does it have a safety blow-off on the body of the
> regulator?
> This would be a small nut or fitting with a hole in
> it --
> it dumps if the pressure on the low-pressure side of
> the
> regulator gets too high.
>
> Is (was) your CO2 tank near empty. The way
> regulators
> work, the tank pressure causes the regulating valve
> to
> close -- it pushes against a spring, the tension of
> which
> is set by the control knob. This is the simple
> elegance of
> single stage regulator. However, as the CO2 tank
> pressure
> drops, there is less pressure against the valve
> diaphragm
> and the spring and so the valve opens up. Thus, as
> the
> pressure drops, the output increases! (Ironic, huh?)
>
> Once the tank pressure gets below normal at all,
> then all
> of the liquid CO2 is gone and the pressure will
> steadily
> drop and output will tend to steadily increase.
> Some
> regulators hold on better than others but why wait?
> Once
> the liquid CO2 is gone, there's only a buck's worth
> of gas
> in the tank-just get a refill when the liquid runs
> out.
>
> Other possibilities: there was a small speck in the
> metering valve that final blew loose, thereby
> allowing more
> gas to pas through.
>
> The same is possible for the regultor; the gas
> passes
> through some small openings going form high-pressure
> side
> - -> valve -> low pressure side.
>
> You check valve gave out and no longer provides as
> much
> restriction as before, thereby allowing the gas to
> pass
> through more quickly.
>
> I think those are the most likely reasons for a
> dump.
>
> FYI: The safety blow off on my $25 regulator blows
> at about
> 25 psi, so if my tank starts to dump it empties
> right into
> the room and not the tank. My $60 regulator's
> safety
> doesn't blow until a much high pressure.
>
> I had a $60 regulator (one form M3) blow out when
> it's low
> side gauge got stuck and I set the tank too high.
> The
> gauge is a metal ballon that is slightly curled. As
> pressure increases, it tends to straighten, pushing
> the
> needle over farther. In my bad regulator, the
> "balloon"
> had a kink--an original manufacturing fault that
> eventually
>
=== message truncated ===
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