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Re: Water Changes




>Someone posted awhile back about a great place to get the float valves etc,
>I'll have to check the archives for that. Anyone got a favorite float valve
>source?  I stupidly bought an Ultralife float switch which requires 120 and
>I need 24V.   Always work all kinks out of the idea before buying anything.

If the float switch is really just a switch, it will be capable of 
switching 24v too. Just cut off the plug(s) on the end so that you can get 
to the wires and then wire it as a normal switch. The only thing that would 
keep it from working at voltages lower than 120v is if it has some device 
in it besides just a switch.

>The other issue is with controller probes being exposed to air. (Hello, my
>name is Daphne and I am addicted to gadgets).  The heater probe should be
>fine but I plan to mount a little "cup" under the pH controller probe to
>keep it in water.  A wide-diameter, shallow, capped section of clear
>PVC/lift tube suction cupped under the probe should work.

Putting something under the probe like that might make it read 
inaccurately. If the cup doesn't allow the water to flow freely you could 
end up with the cup having a higher or lower concentration of [insert you 
favorite compound] than the water in the rest of the tank. Might be better 
to just put the probe deeper in the tank if it can be submersed.

         -Bill
In Detroit, MI, where the snow outside mocks the fact that one of our air 
conditioners is dead  in our too-hot datacenter :-(
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Waveform Technology
UNIX Systems Administrator