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Re: Water Changes
Everyone, thanks for all the wonderful posts!
Scott H, sorry, I thought the cookies/massive amounts of sweets were a given
I plan to put the solenoid at the end of the output line and the powerhead
on only long enough to initiate the siphon (i.e. one minute)to prevent the
issue of sucking too much air. If the length of the hose in the tank is
such that the opening is always below the water line but not all the way to
the bottom of the tank, it can't completely drain the tank if something goes
wrong. Murphy is alive and well here! The powerhead is only there in case
something does go wrong and I lose all the water in the line. I decided to
add in a float valve (with another solenoid I guess) to kick it off in case
I do have the grain problem with the primary solenoid. This should keep the
powerhead under water. Hadn't thought of the grains, you people are
In terms of refilling, I will use a solenoid and float valve and feed from
the house line. If the solenoid doesn't close, the float valve will.
Someone posted awhile back about a great place to get the float valves etc,
I'll have to check the archives for that. Anyone got a favorite float valve
source? I stupidly bought an Ultralife float switch which requires 120 and
I need 24V. Always work all kinks out of the idea before buying anything.
The other issue is with controller probes being exposed to air. (Hello, my
name is Daphne and I am addicted to gadgets). The heater probe should be
fine but I plan to mount a little "cup" under the pH controller probe to
keep it in water. A wide-diameter, shallow, capped section of clear
PVC/lift tube suction cupped under the probe should work.
Thanks for all the wonderful ideas and feedback! It's cookie time!
Daphne, who loves a brilliant solution (and cookies)!