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Re: AHS Kits & 48" Hood/Bulb Choices -- You too can be a professional boxer

Some folks have suggested doing a split hood but cautioned
that it might be more trouble.  Well, not much.  A
non-split light hood is really just a 5-panel box.  A split
hood need be nothing more than that box, cut lengthwise in
half, with the halves hinged together (i.e., each half is a
4-panel box.  A plain old door hinge, or small butt hinges
will work.  Attach them to the matting surfaces so that
they don't show so much when the hood is closed.  Get a
piano hinge if you want a spiffy look.  www.woodcraft.com
has a good selection of hinges.

As for power, just run one of the power cords forward
through the rear box, into the front box and leave a little
slack.  The cord will follow the front section when you tip
it up and go back inside the hood when you close up if you
leave an opening large enough for the cord to fit through
(which ain't a hard thing a-tall).  If the cord rubs, then
cover it with some plastic split wire wrap that you can get
from you know what Depot -- it looks like a thick plastic
straw, several feet long but cut spirally.

Alternatively, you can make two boxes half the size of one
box, each with five panels.  But 4 panel-boxes can be

Note: solid wood looks great but plywood (e.g., a hardwood
veneer over a poplar core) is much much lighter and widely
available.  If you use solid wood, think about getting the
material as thin as possible to save weight.  1/2"
think material is plenty thick.

Well now, if you want to be really fancy you can cut
dovetail joints by hand, but simple butt joints will
function just fine.  

Use water resistant glue like Water Resistant Titebond II
Glue.  It's water-washable until it cures and with well
mated piece pieces, clamped for an hour or so, the glue
joint will be stronger than the wood.  With wood glue,
water resistant usually refers to passing the Type II water
test, which is three dunks and dries without significant
weakening of the joint.  But if you dunk your hood more
than three times, you have bigger troubles than weak wood
joints. ;-)

Titebond II is available at good hardware stores
everywhere, and your hood might last longer than than the

Now about that stain and finish . . .

Good Luck,
Scott H.

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