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Re: UV-B, Anthocyanins and high kelvin bulbs
Oops. Sorry. Blue light (longer wave length) has *less*
energy than red light (shorter wave length). The damping
effect from the water is greater on shorter wave lengths.
(That's why the water gets more blue at greater depths)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Larsson" <defdac at hotmail_com>
To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: UV-B, Anthocyanins and high kelvin bulbs
> Initially I had 4 GroLux (3000 K?) and 2 Biolux
> (7200 K) bulbs (newly bought a couple of months
> ago). The L. arcuata was completely
> green. I didn't want to induce nitrogen deficiency.
> I tried using a Hagen Reptiglo 5.0 (UV-A, UV-B) 40 watts
> for a couple of weeks (without cover glass!) and my
> L. arcuata and P. palustris changed color in a matter of
> days. Dark and deep red, almost black. Unfortunately my
> Fe-level dropped rapidly with UV.
> The UV-bulb oxidized the nutrients in the water column.
> A week ago I bought a Philips Aquarelle 10000 K as
> replacement of the UV-bulb and the new shoots of the
> L. arcuata is turning from green to the kind of red as
> seen in, for example, Aqua Journal.
> So my experience is that anthocyanin is one kind of red
> that is easy to induce with UV-B, but the kind of red
> that one really wants will be induced by high kelvin bulbs
> and adequate nutrient levels.
> (The "right" red color is also induced by my other
> low kelvin bulbs - at max depth of 20 cm. I guess
> the "blue" light from the high kelvin bulb has more
> energy and reaches deeper down and therefore
> manages to induce red colors at deeper depths)
> // Daniel Larsson