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Re: Splash Guard for Lamps?
Jim Miller asked about splash guards for a 9 watt PC on a 3
" <jim at jtmiller_com>
> I got some 13watt kits from AHS and they are really nice.
> I tried the 13w
> with the Miro reflector and my first reaction is that it
> is too much for a
> planted 3gallon. . . .Just for grins I tried a 9w setup
> with the Miro and I
> like it much better. . .
> The question I have is what about splash proofing? Do
> most folks have a
> acrylic or glass splash guard to minimize water on the
It's a good idea to keep condensaton from collecting on the
electrical connections. You can keep the damp air away
from the light by covering the tank or you can protect the
lamp with a lamp cover.
To cover the tank, you can put a piece of glass or
polycarbonate over the top of the tank -- polycarbonate
doesn't absorb water and warp like acryilic when left over
One way to protect the light without covering the tank, is
to put clear plastic over or around the bulb -- the heat
drives of the dampness in the air; keeps it from condesing
on the connections. The hardware store has clear 4 foot
and 8 foot tubes that are sold as sleaves for "full" size
fluorescent lamps -- they are intended to encase the bulbs
if they break. These are clear plastic with partially open
end caps. They will fit over the 9 or 13 watt PC and are
easy to cut or saw.
Of course you can make up your own design with some acrylic
("plexiglas"), a utility knife, and cement. Don't try to
use crazy glue (acrylic isocyanates), the fumes tend to
leave a permanent fog on the surface -- good for
fossilizing fingerprints (some police us it for that) but
not good for light lenses. ;-)
BTW, don't forget to leave some ventilation in the box that
hold your ballast. :-)
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