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- To: Aquatic Plants Digest <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
- Subject: re:chlorinated water
- From: Wright Huntley <jwwiii at pacbell_net>
- Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 14:04:47 -0700
- User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; rv:0.9.4.1) Gecko/20020314Netscape6/6.2.2
> Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 13:48:23 +0530
> From: "drajitathale" <drajitathale at hclinfinet_com>
> Subject: re:chlorinated water
> Regarding my earlier querry about mixing 25% chlorinated water, overall I
> got the message that it should not be done.
Correct. Chlorine does gill damage, even in pretty low concentrations,
so the effect is opportunistic illnesses that may not happen right away.
> The point of my concern & the cause of that querrry was that the chemical
> available for neutralising chlorine is colourless & odourless, LFS might as
> well be giving me plain water in that bottle.In this situation, I might be
> mixing cholorinated water despite the treatment with this chemical.
Never use such chemicals without a chlorine test kit. If your LFS does
not have one or charges too much, use one that is intended for swimming
pools and spas. The kits are identical but cost less in the pool supply
places here in the US.
> If I want to be doubly sure about removal of chlorine, will using water kept
> in a concrete enclosed tank for 24hrs serve the purpose?
Only if you are absolutely certain your water contains no
ammonium/ammonia and if it is vigorously aerated. If it does have
ammonium, the chloramine can be stable in an aerated tank for up to 5 or
more weeks (half life).
If you are not sure, use a dechloraminator, like "Amquel" or "Ammo Lock
2" or "Prime." If you use hypo (the simple dechlorinator), you can
aerate for 24 hours to get rid of any residual ammonium.
The dechloraminators make simple ammonium tests inaccurate, but the
chlorine tests still work OK.
Wright Huntley -- 290 521-0557 -- 731 Loletta Ave, Modesto CA 95351
It ain't what you know
that gets you in trouble;
it's what you know for sure
that ain't so. -- Mark Twain