persistent algae, especially red algae (BBA)

["Roxanne Bittman" <rbittman at dfg_ca.gov>]

Tom wrote:

>>I have not found it to be a problem at high levels of light and K+
levels.
Consider some of the lower fish loads I've had, and by lack of
fish/critter
waste a greater need / dependence on KNO3, I've had higher than normal
targeted K+ levels. If your KNO3 dosage is high, estimate the K from
just
that and pass on the K2SO4 etc.

It could be an unknown<<<

It's the "It could be an unknown" that scares me.  But, I haven't
finished evaluating K yet since the levels are still off the scale of my
current test kit.  I should have bid on your available Lamotte kit for K
a few days ago...

>>>SAE's living in there? They will prune these algae.<<<

Yes, there are 2 in a 40 gal.  I don't like SAEs that much; after they
grow large they are extremely hard to capture and they become a problem
(in my tanks) by eating all manner of plants, despite a varied diet.  I
will consider 2 more though, since I am desperate.  To be honest, I
watch them a lot and I have never ever seen them eat brush algae.  They
glide over other places - wood, plant leaves, etc and seen to eat green
algae, but never the red, so far as I can tell.  I'm not into starving
them to force the issue I guess.

>>>How much TMG Flourish etc are you adding and KNO3 and or fish load
etc?>>>

I was adding 10ml after water change and 2x 5ml additions during the
week, but have cut back to 10 ml after change + 1x 4ml during the week. 
I only added 1/8 tsp KNO3 in the last 2 weeks since it seems to be a
major cause of blooms of all manner of weeds (algae).
 
>>>Well, algae come and go:) It can be scrubbed off or take the wood
out and
coat with peroxide good and let stand for few then return it to the
tank.
I actively go after BBA and remove it.>>>

I'm lazy, you are apparently not.  I can try this, peroxide is cheap
and relatively non-toxic (I hate working with chlorox and I already
proved to myself that it kills the moss too).
 
>>>Well you can and should (at least IMO) attack algae from multiple
angles.
But some things are proven, some look like snake oil.
Nothing like scrubbing, water changes, good maintenance, pruning off
any
algae, adding good amounts of nutrients back into the tank. A decent
filter
helps also. A canister (Hot Mag, Eheim, Fluval etc) all work well or a
wet/dry etc.>>>

Ahhh, a dirty filter.  I have an Eheim 2213 on there, but it prob.
needs cleaning, so this is another thing.  I doubt it has a huge effect
though.
 
>>Well you likely have enough NO3 from fish?>>

Yes, that could be since I like to keep 1inch/gal fish.  Any less and
it looks empty to me.

Re Barley Straw:  >>>No. Did not help or do a thing in the tanks I saw
it used on. I tried it on GW, did not do anything. Some folks claim
otherwise. It's failed every test
I've put it up against thus far so I have difficulty accepting much of
what
is said about it for use in planted tanks.>>>

Maybe.  I will keep experimenting to see if I see any improvement.

>>>It's getting use to all that light that is the issue I believe.>>>

Yes, it's been a bit of a trial and it's not over yet.

>>> Add Amano shrimps, a bunch and or SAE's. Better them doing the work
than you.>>

More algae eaters may be in order; I'll just have to figure out to
remove them later.  The shrimps won't stay alive for me in the current
tank condition.  I dose CO2 quite high (KH=4-6, it fluctuates over the
week due to the Onyx and pH = 6.4 until I just turned it down last
night).  Maybe this is too much CO2 for the poor shrimp, so I cut back.

Thanks very much for the thoughtful comments.  I will try to be
patient, but getting a tank stabilized has never been this hard before.

Roxanne Bittman