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Re: new tank
- To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
- Subject: Re: new tank
- From: Thomas Barr <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
- Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2002 13:53:43 -0700
- In-reply-to: <200204101948.g3AJm2Q17249 at acme_actwin.com>
- User-agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
> equipment....metal halides, pH probes, controllers, solenoids, etc. I'm now
> accumulating "stuff" for the new setup. Due to the high lightload, I plan to
> use CO2 (already have a O2 reactor, reg valves, etc), and am still
> accumulating materials.
> What I plan to do, is take pictures at various stages and periods with my
> digital camera to have a pictorial progression of my failures or success with
> this tank...should be interesting...
> If any of you knowledgeable folks have any advice, post it here or email
> me....I would appreciate it. Wish me luck!
> kkhaley at attbi_com
I think you will find that the chemistry will be easier to some degree,
water changes much easier, cost much less, and be a more hands on approach.
Compatibility of plants is a breeze. Not so with many SW invert, one less
thing to worry about.
MH's are great for plants, if you can , the iwaski bulbs are good and
hopefully you can get the 6500K which will be about the cheapest and best K
rating for you. Basic 10-12 hr photo period.
Like some reef methods, nice substrate will greatly help your tank.
I make no bones about the suggestion of using only onyx sand or
I'm a little more partial to onyx sand.
That would give you the best base for that around. It cost $ but is worth it
in plant health, growth maintenance and planting, and long term usage.
I'd add some ground peat to this and some mulm from a mature tank well mixed
into the bottom 1 inch of the gravel when you set up the tank. Add some mulm
to bio section of filter also to start it.
This will greatly enhance your tank's start up phase.
Try to get a bunch of mulm though. Like a few gallons if possible. Decant
off the clear water and save the dirt.
CO2 will be relatively easy for you since it appears you had a Kalk reactor
going. Study the pH/KH/CO2 table off www.thekrib.com . Test your tap's KH
and see what pH is needed to get a CO2 range of 20-30ppm. Use only CO2 to
manipulate the pH.
Use the sump you have and the overflow etc. You will not need as much
current as you likely had prior but a good current is not a bad thing.
Things to ask:
What's the PO4 and NO3 levels from your tap water supplier? Ask them.
KH from the tap? Test this.
Size of your tank?