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In a message dated 2/28/02 2:17:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Aquatic-Plants-Owner at actwin_com writes:
<< using a P limited approach is STILL very effective
but the P is not meant to go to zero just low relative to the other
I sincerely apologize for posting three times with no text. I hope it didn't
copy the whole list. Might be getting about time for a new 'puter.
I am way behind on my reading and was totally unaware of the Tom and Neil
show when I sent my comments on the demise of BBA in my tanks concurrent with
the introduction of K2HPO4. I did also raise the iron and trace levels as
well as add Mg after the K2HPO4 was added and the algae declining, so it's
hard to attribute its virtual disappearance to just one variable. One thing
is for sure though, the BBA has now totally disappeared even off the
inanimate wood it was so fond of. Could just be a cyclic algae type thing.
I'm sure it will return again at some point given the right conditions.
Sure is a huge coincidence though
I did not raise or even touch the CO2 levels anytime in the recent past - but
then they were probably in the way adequate range all along. To tell the
truth, I don't have a CO2 test kit and I don't really trust the accuracy of
my cheap KH, GH and pH test kits enough to infer anything meaningful by chart
as far as CO2 levels go.
I read the Colins Sears papers, but like too many things in my life, I
figured if low P was good, then zero was even better. I used my rather
expensive LaMotte Phosphate Test Kit once a month, if that, and would
typically glow with inner satisfaction to note the lack of any tint
whatsoever - indicating a complete absence of P. Now I use it much more
often, more in the past two weeks than the past year, and am taking great
pleasure in my growing ability to distinguish shades of blue between . 2 and
.8ppm. I'm also able to appreciate the usefulness of the comparator design
for the first time.
I'm not sure what led to what but I do know it all started with adding P and
it's all good.