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RE: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1521
- To: <Aquatic-Plants at actwin_com>
- Subject: RE: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1521
- From: "Gregory Gooden \(Annex\)" <ggooden at exc1_annex.com>
- Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2002 00:35:11 -0800
- thread-index: AcGYgZHc911g51NVTNCzeAqMF593vwAZjE2Q
- Thread-Topic: Aquatic Plants Digest V4 #1521
> Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 12:17:54 -0800
> From: Thomas Barr <tcbiii at earthlink_net>
> Subject: Re: 135gal set up
> > I'd not dare to argue with your knowledge (grin),
> Well generally expect everyone to question things. I expect
> it. I'm not one of those folks that dislike to be
> questioned(how dare you question
> It's the logical flow IMO. Gets you thinking about the issues
> and seeing the options.
Indeed it does! :)
> but this scares the heck
> > outta me, mostly because the use of CO2 is so relatively
> new to me (I
> > had a Carbo Plus only up until 3 months ago). Is there a
> "setting" I
> > can use to keep my CO2 bubbling WITHOUT causing too deep a
> pH swing or
> > suffocating my fishies?
<< SNIP >>
> In simple example terms:
> If you set up a constant non controller system: Bubble rate
> is 3 bubbles a second. This yields a pH of 6.7. The rise
> through the daily cycle is .2pH unit. Great, this good.
> If you set up this same system with a controller you'll need
> to set the bubble rate at 5 bubbles a second to make up for
> the time the unit is shut off. If you set it at 3 bubbles a
> second it can NEVER catch up to the set of ranges you
> programmed into the unit. It will be like the continuous non
> controller system then. A solenoid shuts the unit off when
> it's reached the set point. As the pH rises back up it opens
> and lets more CO2 in.
Your point is well taken! I will give this a shot after I set up the new system (after I see that things are smooth).
> > Currently, I buffer my kH up to 3.5 with Baking Soda, and
> use CO2 to
> > bring the pH to 6.6 using the controller.
> > Also, what are the factors that make pH in the sump lower?
> Well think about it. The sump is where you have a small area
> with great mixing and the CO2 inflow. The tank is where the
> CO2 is being used up and is much larger and slower flowing.
> Where are your plants? The sump or the tank? That's the best
> place to take the reading but there will be some lag time to
> get the pH up after turning it up or down etc. This becomes
> more true as the tank gets bigger. Well mixed water helps
> solve this problem among others.
"Slaps Forhead"... DUH! Thanks for bringing me back to sanity on this one.. ;>
> > 3 - Wet/Dry - Micron Bag Filters: I'm afraid I plead
> ignorance on this
> > one. Are these things that go into a sump in place of
> bio/balls, or is
> > this a different kind of filtration (like the Rainbow systems)? Or
> > possibly a pre-filter item?
> It's simply bag lies like a coffee filter that hangs about
> your sump. You can remove your wet/dry section and have this
> only or you can have both. It's up to you.
Cool! I'll ask my LFS about this stuff.. :)
> > 4 - Outflow: You said:
> > "The return would run a spray bar along the bottom back wall (make
> > sure to drill a small antisiphon hole in the return right below the
> > surface of your tank's water level!!)."
> > Bottom back wall.. Near the gravel level
> > spraying up?
> No horizontally towards the front of the tank.
Awesome! I hadn't even considered something like that! It sounds like it will help keep the bottom free of dead plant matter (hopefully tossing it up in the column to be grabbed by the sump!).
> > Also, this antisiphon hole I suspect is INSIDE the tank rather than
> > outside, right?
> You got it. Do not forget this item. It will screw you if you
> delete it. Regards,
> Tom Barr
Agreed! And were it not for people mentioning it here, I'd have never thought of it until AFTER my beautiful natural wood floor was soaked in discus water! <grin>
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