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Re:Another hair algae issue.

>> fish. You got some CO2 issues going on I'd bet.
> 
> Not enough?  Going by the KH, pH, CO2 chart, though not 100% accurate would
> put me in the general range.

Well how general do you want to be? 10ppm or 20ppm or 30ppm? There's a big
difference between these in plant growth/health. I can hit 20-30ppm pretty
easy even with a couple of simple test kits. Your way below that range. I
keep very close tabs on pH with a digital pH monitor.
There's nothing like good CO2 to kick a tank into overdrive. Keeping it
going once there is a matter of the macros and good dosing of traces.
Don't trust yourself on CO2, check it often till things are running good
again. If anything ever goes wrong with a plant tank check the CO2 first.
> 
>> CO2 and macro's(NPK) and they will. You may need more Traces.
> 
> I had thought of that but that would also raise the iron and that has been
> thought to be a culprit for algae growth.

Or perhaps holding the plant growth back.
> 
>> Is this weekly readings or daily? Looks too stable to me. Nothings growing
>> (being used up) it seems.

The test reading are:
 
> Daily.

Okay, that's better:) Still not much is being used. If there's NO3, K some P
and your adding traces CO2 is most likely the main thing holding things
back.
> 
> My thoughts exactly.  Can't figure out why I can't drive the photosynthesis?

Well just go down the list. Lighting(good or not?), CO2(re check this one
over a few times if your having a problem, yes even if you think your great
and the CO2 cannot be the issue(make sure), then go after NO3(5-10ppm), make
sure excess K is there(20ppm or higher by estimation), P should be present
and should not be allowed to go below .2ppm or so and lastly the traces.
If you have good macro's, good CO2 and lighting all that's left are traces.
People thought I was crazy having high Fe levels for years. I used Sera,
Kent and TMG and more recently SeaChem.
> 
>> Yet algae is growing on plants in 3-4 days fast? >Something is not right
> here. I'll you figure that one out.
> 
> Ideas?

CO2. Not enough of something(NO3, P, K). I don't thinbk traces will hold
most folks tanks back too much if they are adding a little daily etc. But
their tanks often will benefit by adding more. Some folks claim that adding
any more suddenly causes algae. If the tank has little algae presence to
start with often this NOT the case. Often with folks that I've gone over to
see their tanks it's a macro issue or a CO2 issue. They are right on the
minimum line on one or both of those and adding anything else tips the boat.
But if the CO2 and macro's are in fact in a good range, you can flex trace
levels all over. Even with soft water in the 3 KH range you can have high
levels of Fe via TMG and SeaChem. I use those since they are the same as
other folks for note comparisons. I use the macro's separately (KNO3, K2SO4,
KH2PO4) and in the dry form since it's easier and I have very close weight
weight approximations(certainly close enough to hit any target for our
purposes) for volumes of a particular chemical. Many folks are no good at
making stock solutions. I can but realized I don't need too.

> 
>> point? I think a qualitative approach to your iron would be a better
> method.
>> I use a factor of 10 times more iron(as a base for micro's, I use TMG and
> or
>> SeaChem) and P than you do.
>> And I don't have algae issues..........
> 
> What are you suggesting as a target iron content?

Try .5ppm let drop for 3 days. Add more.

> TMG?

Well I know how much of this to add to your tank. At least 15 ml after a
water change of 50% and 10mls every 3 days or so till next weeks water
change. All this doesn't matter if the CO2 is mess up. You'll get algae
every time if the CO2 is not up and the macro's are not in a good range.
> 
>> CO2, NO3 and K. I bet if you added some KH2PO4 to that tank it would grow
> 
> What is KH2PO4?

Monobasic potassium phosphate. Dave Gomberg sells it, Fisher Chemical sells
it and there's some hydroponic places also. You'd only add a small pinch
about 1/2 a corn kernel 2x a week. You should see it drop using a test kit.
> 
>> flow rates all the time? Canisters are good but check them to be sure.
> 
> What kind of filtration do you use?

Plant filters...what else:-)
Canisters work fine. Wet/drys. Those are the best IMO. My plant filters are
wet drys but have plants and hydroponic media instead of bio balls etc. Far
more surface area/nutrient removal but less gas exchange
I've had a number of different filters but Canisters/wet drys-plant filters
are the best IMO.
But it doesn't sound like the problem here. I think you just need to raise
the KH up to 3, GH as well, keep the pH at 6.5 or so with CO2, add some
SAE's and or shrimps. Watch the macro's/traces and try to get them to a good
range.
You'll see a dramatic change in your tank if you do this for 3 weeks.
Regards, 
Tom Barr