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Algae Challange - and beyond (a.k.a. Newbie #2)
Thank you all for your comments. Here is a brief response to some:
TOM BARR responded:
> I have used Seachem Alkaline Buffer with Acid Buffer to obtain KH 4 and
Why use acid(ahem) buffer? That's what the CO2 is for silly:)
It's not what you want in a planted tank. The KH is good (alkaline buffer)
but don't use the acid stuff. The CO2 takes care of all that. It will mess
with the chart some. Therefore don't use it. You don't need it....Perhaps
but you don't need it. You need to stop adding the acid buffer and
let the CO2 do it's job. That's the pH thing(CO2 related, not acid buffers,
CO2 is the THE acid!).
This is my problem: my Boston tap water is very soft and its PH is very high
(KH 2, GH 1.5, PH 8.4). If I add buffers to get my KH and GH up, won't my
PH go sky High? Will CO2 alone, really bring it down? What about at night
when the CO2 if off?.
> 8. Why doesn't LaMotte nor Hatch sell a Potassium test...
You are correct. Apparently, they list it under "Industrial Applications".
Here is their response to my inquiry:...
"The only potassium test we can suggest is code 3138. It's a turbidity
test... and the range is 6, 8, 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50ppm. You can find it
on our web site under Industrial applications.
Margaret P. Hill
PAUL SEARS responded:
> Clearly my nutrient levels need work! As I am trying to use the
It's _Conlin_, by the way. It might be a good idea to read what
Woops, I am very sorry for misstating the name. Yes, I have read the work,
and all comments I could find about it on the Krib and the Google.com search
From what I can see of Carbo-Plus, if it makes CO2 it does so
from Ca++ and HCO3-, so you _must_ have adequate supplies of both. If
you are using unknown buffers, you don't know how much KH you have
(except that it is lower than your measurement).
Stick to known materials - CaCO3 for GH and KH, NaHCO3 for KH.
Hate to keep showing my ignorance, but would someone please remind me of the
common names for these. Assuming I correctly buffer with KNOWN buffers, Am
I likely to have any problem using the Carbo Plus with my very soft, high PH
ROGER MILLER responded:
> 2. To convert to generally used nutrient-level terminology, is my P04
> result of 6ppm the "P" level?
I think the vernacular on the list usually refers to phosphorus levels
as PO4. Laboratories and at least some kits report the results os
phosphorus. To convert from phosphorus to phosphate, multiply the
concentration by 3. To convert from phosphate to phosphorus, divide the
concentration by 3.
...therefore, since my kit tests P04, my readings of 6ppm, actually means
phosphate at 18ppm....so much for my having a phosphate-limited tank for the
> I have used Seachem
> Alkaline Buffer with Acid Buffer to obtain KH 4 and PH 7.0. This manual
> manipulation must negate the C02 charts?
According to it's label the alkaline buffer is a mixture of
bicarbonates, so it won't mess with the CO2 charts or calculations. The
acid buffer will have some effect. Generally I can't advise you to use
the acid buffer. Use the alkaline buffer (or baking soda works just
fine as long as you can stand the added sodium) and CO2 to adjust pH.
Same comment/question regarding Boston's low KH, GH and High PH, as stated
If I may, I have one new question: Last night after a little surface water
cleaning, I noticed a few very, very thin, white worms (?) 1/8" - 1/2" long
swimming in the tank. They appear to hangout on the glass, just above the
water line. My splashing the surface water must have put the worms back in
the water. They would swim around for a while, and then get back to their
original locations. The fish didn't really notice the worms, except for a
Mollie, who ate one as a snack. I previously noticed one of these worms
when I added live brine shrimp. I assumed it came from the shrimp water,
but may have been wrong. Does anyone know what these little worms may be,
and if they pose any risk to fish, or otherwise?
Thanks for all of your comments.